Evans waterless coolant

In a conversation about overheating issues and potential remedies one individual said : “after I started experiencing overheating issues I just switched to Evans waterless coolant and problem solved !”.
My concern with this remedy is that it is masking an issue and not solving it. If your engine did not have an overheating problem and all of a sudden (or gradually) has one shouldn’t one find the problem rather than masking it ?
From the Evans website ;

  • Water has superior heat transfer capabilities but water’s low boiling point is close to the operating temperature of an engine, and water can cause corrosion.
  • Waterless coolants provide sufficient heat transfer, boil at a higher temperature, and are non-corrosive.
    My interpretation :
    "Water has superior heat transfer capabilities " so, even if its close to the operating temperature of the engine ,as long as the engine is in good operating condition all should be good.
    “Waterless coolant provides SUFFICIENT heat transfer” so, should one use it because it has a higher boil temperature and allow the engine to overheat without boil over ?

This product will allow your engine to run hotter without boil over but is that what you really want ?


Engines run more efficiently at hotter temperature, if everything is designed to operate at those higher temps.

One very critical design envelope is the temp the oil runs at: the critical number is not the temp of the oil in the sump, but the temp of the oil as it goes through the bearings: exceed ~245F there, and babbitt begins to melt.

My suggestion? Get the cooling system the car came with up to snuff, and then there is no need for very expensive coolant.

Keep it serviced properly, use good water, and it will work fine.


As far as I am aware no mainstream car manufacturer currently see’s the need for waterless coolant.

It also requires, for an E-Type, 4 x 5L Evans pre Fluid and 4 x 5L Classic Cool 180 which will cost about $500. Water with glycol will do the job of keeping corrosion at bay and a bottle of Water Wetter will give you another 5C of headroom.

1 Like

In my experience that grossly overstates the effect of water wetter, even according to their own advertising. The efficacy of WW diminishes with added glycol. It works best when mixed with distilled water only. IMHO.

1 Like

Careful of the Brown Slime/Sludge with water wetter. Google it. Well documented.

True, but I think it’s very unfortunate that new cars aren’t coming with waterless coolant, and I really wish it was at least an extra cost option when buying a new car if the automakers don’t want to increase their cost.

The main reason I would like to see it, and the reason I am switching my modern cars to waterless, is because plastic piping and hotter running engines don’t mix.

The E-Type has what, a 4psi cap rating? Modern cars have a 20psi rated cap. The rating is higher because instead of having thermostats in the 160-180 range like the old days, the engines are built to run around 200 degf. Why? Because of what Paul said: They make more power, use less fuel, and produce less emission at a higher temp.

The pressure in the cooling system has to be higher to maintain higher boiling points. 20psi is a lot of pressure! A football is rock hard at 13psi. Why is pressure a problem?

Because to save cost and weight, manufacturers are putting all sorts of complex shaped plastic pipes in the cooling system. There’s no way to replace them with metal because some of these plastic parts are doing things like holding the thermostat outside the block, which is like removing organs from the human body and plumbing them to work outside the body. Jaguar has this in all their engine designs over the past 10 years.

So now you have complex plastic parts being exposed to higher pressures and temperatures, and the plastic is failing in 5-7 years and blowing engines left and right. These new all-aluminum engines that are running at higher temps warp heads and drop valve seats almost immediately after one of these plastic cooling pipes splits open and dumps the coolant. Without the pressure, the coolant at the heads flashes to steam and it’s all over before you can pull to the side of the road to shut the engine down.

I have 2 Jaguar XF’s and the forum is riddled with people selling their cars for scrap because the cost of the engine repair/replacement is more than the value of their cars.

I just swapped Evans into our Range Rover Sport. It was a royal pain to flush out enough of the water base coolant to meet the specs of Evans (3-5% water content). It would have been so much better if it was a factory fill. The end result is that the car’s engine temp is still spot on, but after the Rover has been driving in the Houston heat, I can immediately pop the hood and remove the coolant reservoir cap and there’s zero pressure. Do that normally, and I’d have a face full of hot coolant.

The side benefits of no corrosion and never having to replace the coolant are nice, but I am after the zero pressure to save my engines from plastic failure. If I do develop a leak, without the pressure, it won’t be a catastrophic loss of coolant, and I will have time to pull over and shut down when I get a low coolant light.

Plus life will be much easier on the water pump seals. A lot of modern cars are having water pump leakage within the first 50K miles – Jag included.

On my XF’s, I proactively changed all the plastic and water pumps a couple of years ago, and that was 2 grueling days of wrenching about $1000 in plastic parts and another $350/each for new water pumps, times 2 for 2 XF’s, but I still plan to change those cars over to Evans as well now that I see it working well on the Rover.

If this is such a problem, and waterless can solve the problem, then why aren’t manufacturers jumping to solve the issue? Well, these plastic pipes are easily lasting the length of the warranty, and their failures outside of warranty are generating some darn good revenue. Many of the extended warranties are wising up and excluding the repair of these parts and the resulting engine damage.

I’m torn between Kona Nigari and Fillico. I’m not wealthy enough to spring for Acqua di Cristallo Tributo a Modigliani. Money Pitty will have to suffer through it.


I had Evans in my 4.2 and it worked OK but the temp would creep in traffic. It was also expensive if any leaked. Then I was driving on the highway and the engine randomly overheated. I thought I blew a hose, turned out everything was intact the coolant just stopped flowing for some reason. I dumped it for water / coolant and the engine runs cooler and not a single issue since.

So the Evans coolant turned to a solid?

I think you’ll find Kirkland to be entirely suitable.

It will also allow you to buy another guitar:wink:

Minerals added. That’s a no-no.:thinking::sunglasses:

I’m slowly losing coolant somewhere. Nothing in the oil. It looks great. When I get back home at the end of the month I’ll run a borescope into each cylinder to see if any are decarbonized from a head gasket leak.

Depends on one’s water quality: here in Colorado, I’ve never used anything but tap water… and all my cooling systems are pristine.

If we’re talking coolant, look at this. I’m using it in all my vintage cars now with reverse osmosis water (not distilled). I have no need for antifreeze, but it is used with AF.

If I *ever find corrosion in my cooling systems… I’ll remember this!


I was obviously jesting, but I am now using water pumped through one of these filters since our water is pretty hard. As a bonus I can wash the car in blazing TX sun and still not get water spots on the paint. Unfortunately it can’t prevent melanoma spots on me.


Using exotic coolants to prevent over-heating is simply covering up another problem. FIX the cooling system, maintain it properly, and plain old Prestone green anti-freeze works just great, and you’ll never have ANY problems with corrosion. Corrosion is a function of neglect. Over-heating is a function of faulty components, or poor maintenance. My 3.8 NEVER over-heats, even in ambient temperatures well over 100F.

Ray L.


The coolant doesn’t actually do any cooling - it is just the agent of heat transfer between engine and radiator and we have been told that Evans is not as good as water at doing this, so even if Evans were free, it would be a worse product than water.

The temperature you have at any particular time is simply the equilibrium point between heat production and heat dissipation, nothing more, nothing less.

The heat production is broadly speaking a function of your right foot.

The heat dissipation is a function of airflow and coolant flow into your radiator.

To increase heat dissipation, increase airflow and/or water flow through the radiator or simply fix or maintain the system to how it was when first manufactured.

kind regards

1 Like

Essentially what I’ve asserted, each time this solution–pun intended!-- comes looking for a problem.

The $500 is better spent on recoring the radiator and removing the years of accumulated sludge sitting in the heads and block and you’ll still have money left over.

It’s a classic “Spot the benchmark” problem - just doing the latter probably fixes the problem anyway, but its efficacy shouldn’t be attributed to the Evans coolant - it’d have helped even if water were put back in.

kind regards

1 Like