This sentiment is reinforced by the etymology of “carburetor”: it comes from Old English and then Middle English and ultimately modern French – “don’t f&¢k with this”
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Good thing Joe C. doesn’t speak French!!!
They obviously need a rebuild on occasion and Joe C is supposed to be the best. A shop in Dallas rebuilt my 4 in 1996 for $500. I thought that pricey at the time but they have required nothing except rubber parts since then. I guess I’ve been lucky but I have also learned that when you get them dialed in and stop the vacuum leaks they are almost bulletproof as far as carbs go.
I totally agree. A little TLC goes a long way with them. It’s the rubber parts that become an issue over time.
Just took a short refresher on S3 PM. Jaguar recommends Spark Plug replacement ever 48,000 miles.
I think it depends on the plug type copper core others will last longer
A friend just changed some plugs 200,000 km oem Mazda it ran fine but better now 
New cars, yea: back in the day, I never experienced plugs that would go much beyond 20k miles.
I bet a lot of coil packs or coil over plug units go because people don’t change plugs or re gap I know they say you can’t gap their also selling plugs
I have a fairly limited exposure to coil-on-plug set ups: that said, I’ve only ever had one go bad, and that was it. I certainly have not heard of them being any more problematic than a standard coil.
No there more or less dry, not oily.
I wonder if you might have some float trouble ? Early in my ownership I found the hollow ZS floats to be prone to leaking and sinking. One of the first things I check for if I develop a miss at idle. One that I had only lasted a couple of years before I could hear fuel inside when shaken. Just a thought.
David
68 E-type FHC
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No just four or six or eight times more problematic various Kias’s known for it at least there easy to troubleshoot
Good news it’s fuel then Cheers
Paul,
43 years of active flying… I can see what you’re saying!!! Ha Ha
Dick
has any one tried the hotter range of plugs to stop fowling or maybe the crane fireball ignition to give a bigger spark
A quote originated by the inimitable Dick Kane…
Not much has been said in this thread about the chokes (enrichment valves)…
On a rich running S3, the very first thing to do, is to check correct operation of the enrichment valves.
The enrichment valves can be full on (or partially on) when seemingly in the off position and off when in the on position. (Mostly from incorrectly assembled enrichment valves)
Only then should one start tuning carbs.
On this car, the right front 3 cyls (top left in pic) seems to be running way too lean.
Good point, and they can also be fairly worn out.
Correct! But WHY? What causes them to become worn.
Operating them…
You have an unlubricated rotary valve, bearing against an alloy body.