Fuel injector and rail replacement parts

I’m almost done with the IRS; and the Series III has sprung an injector leak on #1 injector. I have a spare '86 XK6 I figured I’d pop the rail off along with the injectors give them all a good service and stick it on the '86 XK6 that’s in a car and… well… running.
I’m looking at the parts list for the injectors. Mind you I haven’t taken it part yet so I really don’t know what is reusable and what isn’t. Naturally any of the rubbers / seals & hoses should be replaced.


and which parts apply the philosophy if it’s not broken don’t fix it. I wan’t to minimize the cost because I’ll have a couple more to do, and at a glance the bits that seal the injectors; all said and done will be pushing the $200.00 (US) mark.

I’ve gotta keep one of my kittys’ running while I work on the other. I don’t want to be forced to drive a domestic or worse yet the VW Passat. I would drive a Phaeton though… :wink:

Phaeton is nice.
Which style rail do you have? I would flow test the injectors for peace of mind. See if the 6 filters are okay, and I changed EAC 2414, 2415 (very important) and the hoses.

Have you driven a Phaeton? They are as rare as rocking horse poop in the US. I did a quick search. there aren’t ANY on the West Coast for sale; and just a handful on the East Coast up for grabs. Most are the V8 variant; There is one W12 up for grabs.

I figured there was some rubber sealing bits in there someplace, but I couldn’t figure out from the parts list, or SNGBarratts’ website what was rubber and what wasn’t.
BTW, I ordered the parts from Rock Auto for $2.25 per injector instead of the $40.00 from SNG Barratt. I hope I’m not sorry. Sorry like up in a cloud of smoke sorry :scream:
I guess I’ll find out.

Thanx,
Mark

Thank you!

My website will show you what you need. Replace every rubber part regardless of what it looks like. They’re 30+ years old. SD Faircloth www.jaguarfuelinjectorservice.com

What is your opinion on changing the pintle caps?

Phaeton not myself but I was driven in one (v8 I think) and it really is good. And was for the money, cheaper to lease than a golf he said.

Thank you :slight_smile:
other than a # 1 sprung a small leak around the seal, which was my doing; There aren’t any performance issues with the car. but I figured while I fixed the one, I might as well pop the whole thing off and take a gander.

Thank you for the information - great site!

Cheers!

What is your opinion on changing the pintle caps?

Those are also 30 plus years old and should be replaced. If not done at 30, what condition will they be next time around? If you haven’t done it before, it requires a bit of finesse so as not to break off the pintle. If that happens, you will need a new injector. SD Faircloth

I’ve never been in one, I saw Jeremy Clarkson review the Phaeton and much to my surprise. He was impressed. Then reading the background story of how the Phaeton came into existence It’s no surprise that it would be an off the charts wonderful example of a VW.

Cheaper than a Golf… WOW! that’s a surprise.

What are pintle caps?
How’s that for building confidence in my abilities.
:open_mouth:

The plastic cap on the injector surrounding the pintle! You seem to have five spares.
The phaeton isn’t as much a VW as a bentley, audi or whatever is. Which ruined it… but the build quality was alright and everything felt good. Also my first experience of self-closing doors.

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I’m not sure what’s involved; but that’s never stopped me before… my last video is proof!
so I’m okay with replacing the caps if necessary. should they be replaced with new? or can they be cleaned? or is it something that comes off to replace some

Phaeton - Bentley
That’s more or less my take on it too. How did it ruin it? It being a VW or a Bentley?

Oddly enough a used Phaeton can be had for the price of a new Beetle - go figure

Why are jags so cheap?
Old luxury is always cheap once maintenance catches up you‘re done and add to this that the badge was clearly wrong: would you buy a fiat or ssangyong for the price of a rolls or bentley? No matter how good, many wouldn’t!

The pintle caps will break. I left them in place and all is well, but were I to do a top end rebuild, not just a ‚keep it going‘ mission, I‘d get them cleaned, checked and new.

Based on the clapped out collection I’m sporting. Two words come to mind. rear brakes, rust.

I’ll leave out the lumping crowd. (lumpers please don’t be offended - it’s not directed at you per say)
I can’t count how many times I’ve had people say at the store or the car park…
"what’s that a “Jagwor”? "
why yes it is
“does it got a V8?”
No the original 6 cyl engine.
“Uh shud scrap that piece of junk for a Chev V8.”
Oh, look at the time, I’ve gotta go! (brush my teeth or something).

Badging good point.
That’s pretty much what James May and Hamster said to Clarkson. $100 grand was a ton of money for a VW.

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This is what I ordered - it came in a kit. Kits are always correct, Right? :rofl:


I wonder if the small bit in the picture is the Pintle cover.

Just wait, after I get done, I’ll sound like an (self proclaimed) expert on my Channel. I imagine all you J L members are trying not to vomit.

Nope, the small ring seals the injector to the manifold and goes over the tip - pintle cap.

In the parts picture above is there a part number for the Pintle cap? or do you have to buy a whole new injector?
would heat be your friend with respect to getting the caps off in one piece?
I understand living a life in petrol and oil for30yrs, it’s going to be brittle.
ugh…

ahh. This thing…


part number AEC4403

To test an injector…

I’m thinking pressurize a container of petrol, 36psi, then apply 12v to the injector and see what happens. Hopefully petrol squirts out and hopefully it doesn’t blow me up; right?

Got two spare rails and injectors…:wink:

Hello Mark - suggestion for testing injectors off of the engine: items needed - test bench area within 6 feet of vehicle; 20 feet of fuel hose; 5 hose clamps; hose splice fitting; 6 glass jars; momentary switch with wire and 2 small clips; a test battery; - disconnect fuel hose between rail and fuel pressure regulator and replace with of 10 feet of test hose; disconnect fuel feed hose from fuel rail, splice 10 feet of test hose to feed hose, connect test hose to fuel rail; disconnect electrical connectors from injectors; remove fuel rail, with injectors still connected to rail, and place on test bench area; support fuel rail so that each injector is ready to spray within a glass jar; connect a wire between the ground of the test battery and a test clip; connect a wire between the positive of the battery and the momentary switch; connect a wire between the momentary switch and a test clip; place the test clips on an injector connector pins; use the vehicle key to prime the fuel rail momentarily; push the momentary switch to activate the injector and observe the spray pattern and the amount of fuel released; operate each injector for comparison - Tex Terry, II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - 5/1/2020 0122hrs. EDT USA