Now, maybe an entire internal roll cage should be fitted…
Ok not me and my car ! lol
Roads were dry today so took car out for a spin first stop the Shell garage , £20 of V power added , don’t tend to fill the tank , just add a little most times when I go out , keeps the fuel fresh in my mind , I may be wrong .
Hand on hart I can say there is a improvement in the way the car goes around corners , there is a small roundabout , with curbs , not one you drive over , single lane , went round that at about 25 mph , and stayed on my side of the road on the other side ,
So over steer is better , at speed going around corners , 60-70mph , the car holds the inside and don’t drift out .
Well worth the money I paid , not so sure about new price .
Not forgetting I have GAZ adjustable dampers and 215 tyres on 6inch rims , each one of them is a slight improvments , so added together it’s a lot
1 Like
There’s a statement, from Nissan Comp, about handling. It’s in the archives, but it may take me awhile to find it: all three basic handling conditions are useful, and to bias towards one alone is not neccesarily the best way.
Good that you feel an improvement, just be hyper aware that inbuilt oversteer can bite you in ass, and hard.
Oversteer is better than understeer. But our c class just makes tyre noise when I‘m too fast on the B roads and eventually loses it in a perfect, neutral way. Oversteer can be controlled. Understeer always scares the ** out of me, and some people deem it safer somehow. No fwd for me. Only reason it’s safer is that bad drivers can’t make it even worse when they lost the car, or crash sideways with less crumple zone. Not really the issue here lol
You can make the brakets up with a drill press or even a hand drill and a hacksaw.
Ive made heaps of stuff like that. It just takes time and patience… to get the capscrew holes just drill the hole size you want ie 10mm etc and after sharpen the drill to a really flat angle and it will flatten the bottom of the hole out for you, and the capscrew will sit flat.
To do the others just work out the hole centres, drill the holes and cut down the centreline of the holes and you have 2 halves and you have just made those brackets in the pics.
Most people could make those brackets at home, its the bending of the bar that would be the hardest, or simple go to the wreckers/breakers and find an ARB from another car and cut that down to suit.
I hope this helps.
Rob
1 Like
Fitted the Harvey Bailey Anti-roll bar today – not impressed. Seems such a simple fitting, however (it may just be me / my car) the bar itself is a fraction short (as in across the track). The outcome is the bent ends do not sit parallel over the control arms, meaning the fittings are tilted in at the top, and out at the bottom, causing a catch on the shock top cover. It was faff enough to get to this stage and I thought after much mucking about I had the clearance okay, but a couple of manoeuvres down the drive / off the kerb and back reveal a scrape / knock on the offside. I’m too fagged out to get the wheels off and jack the car up etc again today – perhaps it’s just a ‘creak’ as the bar / fittings rotate slightly and it will sort itself.
…which is why, when installing aftermarket ARBs, I just made my own, from Stressproof.
Hi Ian,
I used your pictures as a handy guide and I think you’re correct - the upper portion of the dampers you have fitted appear a little narrower compared to the Koni Classics on our car - I have the old ‘standard’ shocks in the garage and I may compare dimensions. Notwithstanding I had a goodly bounce on the suspension and the noise has gone, so it may just have been a slight rotation / settlement of the fittings when the car was under load. I still think if the track/width bar was 10mm more the fittings will have been vertical hence more clearance. I’ll report back after driving - work today plus it’s pi**ing down here.
1 Like
I have stock shocks on mine and no issues with the bar. If I remember correctly it may also be a hair narrow but not sure it was something I noticed or remembered. I checked mine a few times to make sure it wasn’t coming loose but after years it hasn’t budged.
Short drive yesterday - local roads, town speeds but an obvious reduction in roll. No noises and I am satisfied the initial noise heard was the fittings settling / rotating slightly when first under load.
2 Likes
Here’s my take on the rear stabiliser idea. Hours of cut’n’weld done.
The actual stabilizer bar comes from Daihatsu Rocky.
Still to do are the links to axle (once I have the axle in place 
)
2 Likes
Nicely done! I’ll be interested in your results.
Road test is expected no earlier than 2022 
I hope this will help my Mk1 with original narrow axle to stay on track.
1 Like
Not entirely sure what you’re referencing, when you say, “staying on track”…?
Not disappearing into the bushes???
1 Like
Lol ! Exactly that !
Well… sneak on up to it!
Increasing rear roll stiffness, independently, can have the unfortunate effect of making the car disappear off into the pucker brush… backwards!
A small photographic update; checking fitment. Now I must think how can I connect bar’s silentblocks to the axle. As seen - the bar is 2 inches too long, otherwise it could get linked to the torque arms bolts.
Very different design to the Harvey Bailey rear anti-roll bar fitted to our car - the one we fitted does not connect to the body at all. From the photos of the item you are fitting, even if weight off the car to make the fit, I’d be worried about the impact on the bodywork. Two pictures here - The first from Ian Acott’s car, the second from mine, both showing the Harvey Bailey item.
