Need to replace this on my S1. Other than losing some fluid what might I get in trouble with? Thanks
I seem to recall that the O ring fitment is not always right. Have a new one and match it up to the old.
Tom
Pay special attention to the O ring and how it seals. It needs to be fatter than what we are used to so it will fill the void when the new valve is installed.
The o-ring supplied me by one of the usual sources was a fat one, but not fat enough. It did not completely seal when the halves were bolted down. The leak appeared inside the drivers footwell and gave me some bad moments until I realized the cause.
It looked the part â old on left, new on rightâŚ
âŚbut the old one had a triangular profile, the new one (round profile) couldnât fill the space:
In the end I used a pair of o-rings (not the same size) which provided a good seal.
I have seen those triangular shaped washers like in Geoâs photo at the mom and pop hardware store close to my house. They have a pretty nice selection of sizes. I live in a neighborhood that initially was built in the '20âs and my house still has some plumbing that needs them. Just a thought if you have a place close by that might be similar.
David
68 E-type FHC
Really? they were supposed to be that shape? I thought they looked like your replacements and just got squished into that shape?
I thought that at first but learned here on J-L that they were âborn this wayâ.
Just received my aftermarket ânewâ one. Donât like the quality. Anyone ever repaired the original? If soâdo you have a guide to follow?
Youâll find out if your heater pipe is ok, if you can slide the valve off. My pipe came off with the valve leading to the ânext step.â
hereâs my adventure and discusses the valve and O-ring with pictures
Wow, quite a mess you had----mine only leaks when I open the valve so --who needs heat in the car anyway:). Iâll go with it for now and maybe replace it over the winter. Bought a ânewâ aftermarket valveâa POS really-----trying to return it now. Thanks for your help.
Tom
Actually, I find I use mine a fair amount in spring and fall, and it works quite well. Need to have the rear quarters open to allow air flow through the car.
true------actually so do I---------what to do? what to do? Question-----If the water pipe is not frozen in the valve, is it a simple twist and remove, add new seal and hook back up? The last thing I want to do it to pull the dash and try to get my hands in there.
If itâs not frozen (welded with corrosion) it should slide off. Youâll have a sense when you unscrew the mounting screws and see if you have any free movement. If not, thatâs when the twisting starts to break any adhesion. Mine was so corroded it just crumbled and Iâm glad* it did, the alternative would have been an eventual antifreeze leak (flood) inside the dash. Either way, I was going to have to repair the pipe. So, I guess I might use the opportunity to see if it will come off without issue while being prepared that I may discover deeper issues.
Thanksâgood idea. What holds the pipe in place while youn are twisting it, and when you are remounting the valve?
tom
The pipe is a long U. There is no connection to the bulkhead at the valve, it just sticks through the hole. There are 3 rivets in the flange at the other end. The crush of the O-ring is supposed to clamp the pipe between the valve and bulkhead.
great pics!! Thanks----I guess Im still a little dense on how you hold the pipe in the valve and flush while you are tightening the bolts.
tom
In my experience it doesnât really want to go anywhere once the bits are in place and you begin to tighten.
There are capture nuts behind the firewall. You slide on the spacer, then the O ring (with maybe a little sealant), which will hold the pipe in position against the spacer. Then slide the valve on, should be very little resistance if any, and then install the screws.
Thank you John-----excellent response and help! Stay safe!
tom