I’ll say it - ‘Outlook not so good’. You would be very lucky if you can find the car you’re describing for the money you have in mind.
Unless you have a time machine, a likely outcome will be ‘more money’ or ‘Series 2’.
Don’t forget to also have some funds in reserve for whatever is needed after you buy that ideal car.
I couldn’t get into a Midget when I was 30!
Use the search function on this forum for lengthy discussions on this topic. Try various word strings such as “which xke to buy” or “want to buy” etc. you will learn a lot.
good luck with the hunt.
Or more of a project.
Unfortunately, I agree that is the case. This car has just sold on BaT for $84,000 (including buyer’s premium):
The seller finally published photos of the underside in the last few hours. They revealed severe rot to the sills and rear floors (structural) and a bodged repair to the mounting point of the rear radius arm. This car is going to need extensive bodywork, plus paint to start with… The 1965-67 cars typically fetch more than the 1963-4 cars, so you will be very lucky to get a decent 65-67 OTS for anything close to $75K. However, don’t give up. A Series 1.5 should be less, and many feel is the best of the bunch. I also feel that some of the prices seen recently on BaT cannot be sustained, but prediction is probably a mug’s game… You’ve already seen a lot of good advice. Take your time, and be sure before you jump. Many of us (myself included) bought the wrong car at the wrong price, and spent a long time making good, but now enjoy our cars immensely.
For some of us, working on the thing is as much fun as driving it.
Don’t want to cross any lines here but since its not mine hope not but I know of a car in MA that might be for sale, probably just under $100k. Its a '67 OTS with open headlights, stripped to bare metal 4 years ago or so painted original OSB. The car has a history file back to at least '78 when I bought it. I had the engine rebuilt by Coventry West in '11. Not my car now obviously but if interested PM me, last I knew he was downsizing his stable, he had 7 E-types then.
pauls
Agreed. And that helps when it isn’t all you thought it was when you wrote the check…
I suspect you mean “when you wrote the first check”? 
Days like today, raining (again), I go down to the garage and stare at the car; trying to conjure up something constructive I can do to it.
Agreed. I was going to suggest in the range of $120K to $140K for a nice rust free driver S1 OTS. The BaT car that just sold bears that out. Even if it had been rust free it would have needed at a minimum an additional $30-40K in paint, interior work, wheels & tires, chrome, etc. With the rust problems, all bets are off.
Heck, this “project” sold for over $50K after buyer’s fee last week: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-jaguar-xke-roadster-10/
Remarkable to me that this car jumped up over 25k after those photos were posted. Did no one look? The seller stated this which is obviously not true, but the fact that the photos snuck in before the wire provides sufficient insulation from misrepresentation. Is rust not consequential until your feet drag on the pavement?
I agree. I took one look at them, and thought the person who had the high bid at the time must have been really concerned that no-one would outbid them… No-one commented on the photos, so I really suspect that the bidders didn’t take them into account. It seems all wrong to me that the most important information about the condition of the car wasn’t published until shortly before the auction closed.
Despite price increases lately, I don’t believe that BAT car is indicative. I’ll bet it dosnt close. I, like many here monitor sales. I monitor three auctions every day. There are decent series ones sold in the last six months well under a hundred. Sweet spot seems to be upper 70s. Lower 80s Driver quality. Good series 2 still sell in the 50s. There’s all the guys asking the moon, that never sell, then there are sold comps.
If this kind of nonsensical blabbering is not a red flag, then you are the consummate patsy.
Politicians and attorneys slosh through their days using this type of dishonest rhetoric to sell their snake oil. Do not let this “used car salesman” apply the same tactic on you.
If you are interested in this vehicle, get on a plane and go give this thing a good look-see.
Phillip
“Surface Rust” is the new cologne for men. Just a slight mist will do ya. It has a picture of an E-Type on the bottle.
This one?
I live in Northeast Florida. I’ve been checking out BaT. I like the commentary. Thank you for the JCNA.com link. I see there are a couple Jag clubs fairly close by.
Ok, one more vote for the S1.5. You get the more elegant body style of the S1, with some of the safety and systems of the S2, namely collapsible steering column, factory 3 point seat belts and stronger door locks. Also you get the upgraded cooling system incorporating dual electric fans and more. The things you give up: covered head lights, eared spinners, and toggle switches. The headlights are relatively easy as the sheet metal is the same, and I believe there is a no-welding, bolt in kit around. The spinners are a snap. The toggle dash more of a challenge. My S1.5 has the covered headlights and eared spinners. I’m hesitant to take on the dash, but might talk myself into it. And they are typically priced between the S1 and S2, which seems to be where your budget is landing you.
Finally, consider a FHC. (This is Not the 2+2 as they have different profiles). You’ll find a bit more headroom, and have a bit more of an all weather car. I thought I wanted an OTS but came across the FHC and thought I’d try it. I love it. Esthetically many consider the FHC to have purer lines as well.
I would find it hard to buy one at auction. Even with a professional inspection performed, sight unseen is not me.
I should clarify what I meant by how much wrenching/money I want to put forth. Too much work would be things like any kind of welding, rebuilding the motor and/or tranny, replacing sheet metal sections- things like that. I enjoy working on cars, like most car enthusiasts. I would like the car I get able to be driven without (too much) worry, and one I can initially drive for a while without HAVING TO work on it. Then the tools come out for tweaking. As for the funds, I am not penny-wise pound-foolish. My limit can be raised for the right car.