Hey guys ill get the question out the way. so I was removing the fan belt so I could see if either of the pumps of the spring tensioner was slowing my engines crank speed and stopping her from firing (get to that in a monument) but in the process after removing the belt the power steering pump pulley felt fine but dry so I topped it up checked today and it had pissed all the fluid out but it looks like the steering rack pinion seal has went a I was wanting to know where I can get a seal kit for that pinion.
For the engine I’ve had to buy a compression tester as she keeps hot burning in the inlet manifold and yesterday she was trying to start near the end of the day but that was only after having her spin over for most of the day and she did start to develop compression as the bangs where in the engine. which I thought today I could go out adjust the timing and away she would go but nothing but hot back fires out the carbs. so I pulled a plug got someone to spin it over with my finger in the hole and it barley felt like there was any pressure being suck or pushed on so I have bought a compression test to see if the engine needs stripped down. also I wanted to check there was oil at the top of the engine and it smells like al the fuel that ive pump into the engine today has went into the cams so the heads may need to come off and get looked at aswell
Huh?
You might need to list that up again.
The power steering seems to be hard to get right and is probably a b*tch to work on.
If you need all day to crank it, stop doing that.
Is that the SII?
Get your priorities straight on the power steering, if you just want to move the car you need neither pump for now.
Just don’t run it for too long…
You say it backfires in the intake, and obviously you got a lot of fuel into the oil by now, with all the cranking.
Remove the cam covers and inspect your valve / cam timing. Use the tool.
Set your ignition timing static per the manual and if your carbs are not totally done with it should start. But check compression first, on all, and give us the values.
There is a point in time when you should stop fettling and start over again with the manual and nothing but that - and go over even the dumbest things.
David
Well carbs I stripped them down cleaned all the crystal fuel out but they need new dashpot dampers but I just help the carbs open to get air through as for timing according to the book it says the timing is okay and yesterday she sounded really close alot yesterday it’s why I kept going yesterday and why would fuel have got into the cams. As for compression It be Thursday Friday before I’ll be able to do that waiting for a tester.
I’ve have checked the timing seems fine changed the points to electronic changed the leads and plugs serviced the carbs and aed unit pulled the fuel filter out and running the fuel straight from a can I even removed the belts in case on of the pullies was jammed or dragging. One thing I’ve not done is pulled the inlet off to see if it blocked up also I was using easy start aswell
Harry, I know it hurts but in the long run it’ll save you lots of time if you go through things properly now.
And I get that you went through the carbs but if you have your spark and your cams somewhat okay but you have to manually hold open the carbs I might have located your problem don’t you think? I mean sure, it can start this way but it also can’t.
Washing down the engine with fuel ain’t gonna help.
And what do you mean fuel at the cams, please clarify.
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At this stage, Harry - I would first run the compression test…
While your power steering may have a problem - it is less important than getting the engine running. A compression test will reveal if the engine is mechanically in running order. Or you are whipping a dead horse…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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It’s not good news I tested it and got zero compression on my gauge so I dropped some release oil down the bores and spun her over a couple times today to see if it’s just my engine isn’t spinning fast enough to generate compression falling that I’m thinking the rigs have went but zero compression on all pistons didn’t even wiggle the gauge
I don’t think I’ve ever read zero on all cylinders. Did you have the throttles wide open, and the tester fully sealed to the plug hole? The engine should be cranking at normal speed when you test, but even if it’s slow I’d expect to see some needle deflection.
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Hey everyone done a compression test on my engine and got zero on all of my pistons so I’m thing the rings have went as the head looks okay can’t see any cracks or weeping from the gasket so my only other thought is the crank speed sound slow and I’m assuming if she isn’t spinning fastest enough it won’t great compression
I didn’t have the throttle open I just assume the compressed would just need the car spinning over
You must have a good fully charged battery before you start a compression test or you won’t get useful results.
Check your compression gauge, on another engine if necessary, just to make sure it is working.
I’d be surprised if worn rings alone could result in zero compression across all cylinders. Low compressions yes, inconsistent compressions yes, but not absolute zero.
What kind of compression tester are you using? The kind that screws into the spark plug thread, or the type with a rubber bung that just pushes into the spark plug hole like a wine cork?
Even the worst basket case engine I’ve ever tested managed some compression on some cylinders. So I’m wondering if you are testing properly.
Regards,
Andy
I agree it’s odd but I bought the gauge new yesterday us pro one and it was the thread type so not me not getting a good seal but to see if there was some sort of compression in placed the ht leads over the spark plug holes and they all barley got lifted up
Have you opened the throttle as Andrew already said or not?
If you put a spoonful of oil in the cylinder and then do the test you can about rule out ring wear. Every single compression tester comes with a manual and you can even google how to do it.
You can also do a leak down test (or improvise) and listen for where the air escapes. And you can easily verify that your tester is working while we can’t, so please try to get some part of your job done yourself so we can help you with figuring out the tricky stuff. Does your dad have any guesses as to the engine‘s state? I bet he’s seen more engine and has some experience to offer?
And it will even have compression if you turn it over by hand so rule out cranking speed.
My ‘65 ‘S’ would certainly have had zero compressions on all cylinders when I purchased it, every single exhaust valve was bent, I knew that the cams had shifted.
Robin has a point. @Harry_Wilson, take the cam covers off and verify that both cams actually turn.
If you’re careful, and the DPO hasn’t glued them on, you’ll be able to get the covers to seal decently, but I suspect that at this stage the least of your concerns are leaking cam covers.
My cams are good I done that rught after it gave me nothing pulled both covers off and spine the engine a turn and the cams spin fine
Yes but are they timed correctly? I.e. top dead centre on the front cylinder, both cams pointing to the outside of the engine?
Harry,
Did you check the valve clearances and see that the cams pushed the tappets down opening the valves and that the tappets came up again closing the valves within the spec valve clearances?
I am wondering if your valves are bad or if your puston rings are bad.
Paul