Lets build a 1967 e type together

Lots to report today
It’s 95 degrees today with very high humidity
The E ran at 180 all afternoon
Just a couple of things like dialing in the fan and wheels and tires then we are all set for awhile
Then carpets and some more padding
I’ve been blessed to almost own or drive the best cars around the world but only one still is my favorite and yes it’s the Etype coupe!


The return hose is now done forever😀
Oil resistant no metal pipe 4 less clamps and it’s so easy if I have to cleaning it out!
Gtjoey
Ps I had a wonderful morning helping out on a special jag
A bear of a job but happy to help as long as I don’t own it🙄

Wigs get ready it’s almost time for a run to the mountains


It’s running so amooth

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Wellll… maybe a few thousand test miles, up in the Catskills, might be a good idea!

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Will do…
Okay , Im down to small details but here’s the list of IMPROVEMENTS that already has made this car enjoyable.

  1. The direct bolt on ZEUS FRONT CALIPERS WITH VENTED ROTORS is very , very nice.
    No squeals, shakes or rubbing heat cycle sounds. I love Wiilwood on my other car but they are more involved.
  2. Ron Davis racing radiator keeps my car at 180 degrees in 93 degree heat!. Im still playing with my fan but will be done by weeks end.
  3. The 1-2-3 distributor is second to none IMHO. ALL the guess work and flat spots and hesitation is gone.
  4. The high torque starter for me, is GREAT , AND i MEAN GREAT.
  5. The 307 rear transforms the ride at least into the 1990s.
    6.LED dash bulbs OMG, Soon a special pair of headlights THAT LOOKS STOCK! Shhhhhhh
    7.The now old news, sealed xj40 ball joints along with NEW control arms, the car is NEW , Not restored. Couple that with the welsh small wood wheel and the car feels VERY SAFE.
    8 . GOING STOCK bushes not poly, Im very happy along with STOCK shocks , the ride is wonderful, not hard or brash, no shock up the windscreen when you hit a bump, its just right.
    The core of the car is unreal that with only the above minimal upgrades, its a 2020 auto for the road!
    Will report back, any thoughts to add?
    gtjoey1314
    P.S. Im almost empty on gas again look how much the rear came up, im going to fill it to the top and let it sit for a week, its will come down the rest of the way.
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Okay guys need a little help…
Th Ron Davis rad is fine and the cars at 180 all day in 93 degree heat.
Heres the issue.
My spal fan is blowing fuses ive tried my hayden adjustable switch, hella relay all blowing out the fuses.
Details…lets start with the hayden switch.
The unit gets hot then pops the fuse.I crimped each eye loop and hit home run grounds straight to the bolt on the firewall.
Im using 12 gauge wire for grounds and feed. Im using a 30 amp inline fuse to source along with 30 amp for the fan.
The wires are not getting hot but the back of the fan and hayden switch are getting hot!
Some say to solder all the connections others say the fan has a short?
Im leaning to the fan. Need some thinking here.
Thanks in advance.
gtjoey1314

Have you measured what the fan is drawing while running?

It sounds like you might have something wired wrong which is shorting to ground. The switch should not get hot; it should be powering the relay. If the fan is drawing too much that wouldn’t impact the switch at all. The switch heating up is your clue here.

Edit: I re-read and caught you also say the back of the fan is getting hot. If that was being caused by an internal shot or issue with the fan, it wouldn’t explain the switch getting hot.

If I’m understand how you expected it all to work, I assume your using the switch to drive the relay,mand then the relay is carrying the load of fan. The switch should only be carrying enough current to throw the relay, probably only a few milliamps. The only way for the switch to get toasty is if it is having to carry a high current load, and the only way for that to happen is if it isn’t wired correctly (if I’m understanding your installation correctly).

With the switch, are you using it to switch positive feed to the relay or to close the circuit to ground? Same question with the relay: is it switching + or -?

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Yes and yes…
I have a positive feed from the battery post /poll with a 30 amp fuse.
The hayden switch has a ground which is grounded
The fan has a feed/red going to feed hayden switch positive
The ground from fan is going to ground/ lug bolt on firewall 12 gage home run.
I had it shorter run same pop.
The fuse from the relay to the FAN is popping, its never the fuse to the relay from positive.
Im down to the fan , Its spiking ,supplier still thinks its a wiring issue but?
The hella set up or Hayden pop.
Thanks everyone in advance , any other ideas? Just post.
Ive had hayden switches for decades and I like that I can adjust them.
Tires and wheels are on the way…tubeless .
GTJOEY1314

As Robin said, connect the fan directly to the battery and check the fan’s amp draw with a meter.
Tom

You should have fused ignition feed to terminal 85 on relay; one wire from Hayden controller on terminal 86 and the other from the Hayden controller to ground- this is the control side of relay. You should then have main power feed for fan motor from post through 30A fuse to relay terminal 30. Then blue fan wire goes to relay terminal 87A and the black fan wire to ground.
The above assumes a typical ISO relay (square black). When wired as above, fan will be controlled by the Hayden switch and will only run with ignition on.

Than fan positive (feed) should be connected to the relay terminal that Robert points out. Not to the switch. I think you’re simply shorting out due to wiring method. Fan may now have gotten hot enough to have compromised insulation so make sure you don’t have an internal short, after you straighten out the wiring

Rob/ Rest thats what I have, Im drawing huge numbers from the fan direct.
I looked up the amp draw, the spal fan is at 22 amps 2300 cfm , the High speed BE COOL was 11 amps 1900 cfm , the be cool 1300 cfm is at 7.50 amps.
Ill swap fans around , I got a feeling its the fan motor itself.
I put an inline fuse to the battery direct to fan. Its shorting out. Popped the fuse.
Fun fun fun…lets all be honest here, the ORIGINAL fan was a waste what did it pull in cfm 500? 750?maybe…lets see what we can do.
Thank you again.
gtjoey1314

Here is the Coolcat Corp comparison of the various fans:

It sort of explains why the Coolcat is the only game in town - 6.8A. Good practice is to paint two opposing blades silver which has fooled many concours judges into thinking it is stock!

Besides Mike is a member of J-L and is ready to assist if anyone has a problem with his products.

David

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Well, that’s why the switch is hot. It’s shorting a hot lead straight to ground. Wired wrong.

Gosh, I wish I’d thought of this, before putting Tweety into any judged competitions…:wink:

Also, if any judge were fooled by that? They shouldn’t be judging a…lawnmower competition!

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David That chart is GOLD!
See it’s worth bringing this up
You think 22amps and 2200 com is excessive🤪
The fan is already on the way…
Thank you again for the backup chart
Will solder all connections once everything is right
On another note 3 out of 4 wheels showed up and 2 out of 4 tires , wonderful times we live in!
Gtjoey13-4

Jeff I’ll send an illustration
Gtjoey1314

Man came in said, “All rise.” We all stood up, and Obie stood up with the 27 8x10 color glossy pictures, and the judge walked in sat down with a seeing-eye dog, and he sat down…

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Jeff
Diagram so it makes sense can you read it or is it blurry?


The Ac is moot and the second fan wire is moot
It’s straight forward
I just think someone mailed me a radiator with a fan by mistake from a diesel truck😃
Ps the two wires from fan
Black to ground chassis and red to fan wire orange or whatever that color is without glasses right now
Gtjoey1314

What a woman…
She loves cutting my tubes down to size
Thank God she’s not Sicilian!

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