Yeah, well I guess it worked in a country where the average high in July is 71F and 80F is a heat wave and cause for alarm. 
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Ok, Ben, Wiggles all the rest…
As I peel the banana back, theres more and more…….
Frey wire, weak heater pipes.
I wanted to hold off on the engine pull, but it looks the easiest to do.
Will post pictures as I can drop it from my lift and just raise the car.
Heater box was mint, just changing the guts.
Question.
To remove the reaction plate, ,I have to remove the shockes as well as wheels to unwind the torqu correct?
Its been 10 years since my last.
GTJOEY1314
If it’s not critical to keep the car mobile, dropping the susiom is the easiest way.
Looks like shipwright’s has set in deeply…
My story on the lawnmower blade: The biggest stress I had over my new to me '63 OTS back in 1967 was the expectation that it was going to boil over anytime I stopped moving. It never did, even crossing Death Valley in the heat of the summer or getting stuck in Detroit traffic. The only cooling system problem I did have was a blown upper radiator hose leaving Yosemite. Several miles west of El Portal, hose in hand, I hitched back to a gas station and found one that would fit. I used my canteen to refill the system with Merced river water and we made Burlingame in time for dinner.
The car has a CoolCat fan now, and I’ve found other things to stress over.
And, by the way, I sure do miss the “Resume Speed” signs in Nevada. 
You also have to split the upper ball joint for it to hang down far enough to unwind the Tbar fully.
- jack under lower ball joint to take the weight off
- remove shock
- split upper ball and tie or wire the upright to something
- lower the jack
- remove the rear T-bar bolts and safety bolt at the front
- raise lower arm until it points straight out to the side
- tap bar backwards until loose from front control arm and rear splined receiver
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…and make DAMN sure to make witness marks at both ends of each t-bar, and keep the sides correct.
Well screw it
I’m ripping everything out…
Black in the brake fluid
Crap in the rad
I’m full blown boys!!! B
I’m another dumb ass but sure having fun😀
It goes without saying, and I’m not telling you anything, but now’s the time to check those frame rails real close for internal corrosion! I think they make new upgraded frames that they say results in a “tighter” suspension.
If you’re going shipwrights, go all the way baby! (I did 
)
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Or just buy some “perfectly good” used frame rails on e-Bay or CList. I don’t know how they do it, but some people find themselves with four serviceable ones when they only need two…so they kindly offer to pass on the factory ones to those who want to maintain originality. At least, I /think/ that’s what they are doing…
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February 20th, 2019…
“In the news today, Joey “GT, baybee!” Limongelli was found sobbing, under the now-removed engine of his EType, and mumbling incoherently, “Well, now’s the time to pull the IRS, clean it. Maybe install remote bleeders, and fix that spot of rust in the IRS kickover frames.”
“What’s the contact number for @69Cat, baby?”
Men in white coats were seen approaching the premises…”
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I actually bought my driver’s frame off a guy on Ebay. It was a blessing because that was during the period when new frames weren’t available for love or money, and this was a new Robey frame supposedly from an aborted restoration. The reality when I received it was that one set of front pad holes didn’t line up with the picture frame even off the car and that was probably why he gave up. Fortunately welding on the pad is acceptable so I had one hole filled then re-drilled it in the right spot and it went on like butter. Ebay is a minefield.
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If I’ve learned anything from this thread, new T-bars will be on the way to his barn in the near future anyway.
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She is bone dry just old and greasy
After a couple of days I’ll clean everything down
T5
307 rear
Alum rad
Petronix
And I’ll be back on the road next week!
Gtjoey1314
Thanks Erica !!
your notes are short and sweet !! I am making side notes while watching the GTJoey fun as I need to replace my suspension bushings and the idea of removing the T-bars has me a little nervous.
at some point in the next year I need to replace the clutch too. SO, hopefully I can pick up a few more pointers from this thread as it goes ( Hint to Joey. dont be stingy on the descriptions )
Bob F