Someone give me a heads up on this?
Those shims look wrong
My other cars the vent snugs to the hood
Any idea
Gtjoey
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I too have just fitted the “kooky” sending unit. At least on the bench and in the gas tank the resistance values are correct and the gauge reads OK. Note to self…On first fill with gas cans, note when low light goes off, make a label of gallons remaining and stick it somewhere like inside the glove box door.
Wayman measured mine as well, will keep it as a spare……
Over thinking if you ask me. The original was roughly a hair over 1 gallon U.S. for the light to go out on the low fuel.
BTR, I agree its some sort of shim, looks like crap as the welded piece behind is correct.
I removed the vent chrome piece , then there was large gap?
Will find out if it was transitional?
Myy 66 is flawless, My 70 is good, but no shims.
I cant slide it out and theres no screws, maybe wedged in?
Thank you guys…I have the car 1 week, lots done
Next week the carbs go to Curto!
I will tackle the center console and radio area.
Move it around a bit till I can get it on the lift, the DB4 is almost done.
GTJOEY1314
When the carbs go…
Need some REAL life thoughts
Distributor, Petronix, Mallory , 123?
I have Petronix in my 66 with vaccum advance, no issues, but I hear the 123 can now be adjusted by your I phone to take out any flat spots in timing?
Also Griffin rad is out of business and I have the xk aluminium set up, BUT the fan motor is so whinnie.
Anyone else with a great set up?
Its all coming out so, mind is open to it all, wihout looking way out of place…
Thanks in advance.
The Pertronix seems to be the best of the standard distributor options.
My car was rebuilt from the ground up as a reliable, comfortable, long distance “driver”. IMO It’s in the" GT Joey category" created by Hagerty for your red car. The difference is mine will be driven, yours is a hangar queen. Here’s the list of essential upgrades:
Electronic ignition (Allison in my case…spark box inside the car. Optical trigger versus Pertronix induction). 123 Pertronix show up in “problems” threads fairly regularly.
New fuel pump/carb rebuild, etc
Gear reduction starter
Air conditioning for an FHC
Reconfigured electrical system with multiple relays and modern fuse boxes…the Bob Skelly mod.
Modern crankshaft seals front and rear…see Bill Terry for the rear…I’m sure he’s a friend of yours.
Cool Cat fan on big radiator
New water pump…I’m happy with the one from XKS
Heat insulation to include tunnel, floors, above mufflers and ceramic coated exhaust system.
Alternator (for a 3.8 S1)
Hylomar (or Permatex equivalant) everywhere…do the Oil Leak without leaking.
U-joints…top quality throughout.
High wattage headlight bulbs from Coolcat
Close ratio (EJ) gearbox (your car might already have one) in combination with 3.07 rear ratio…a joy to drive, drive, drive. Better than a 5-speed, I’ll wager.
Mike Eck tach conversion
Third brake light
Mirrors, mirrors, mirrors
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I agree, The 307 is on the way, I converted my 70 28 years ago with stock transmission and loved the difference.
Since I have the 4.2 the xk’s alt kits is complete and for 300 dollars , Its you I’m going to need till the A/C comes in.
I’m looking at the a/c system from Europe, the one complete in the heater box?
We shall see.
Dynamat is going everywhere.
I forgot about cool kats.
Will do.
By the way SNG barret remakes the upper and lower control arms complete, but takes all the guess work and play out of the story.
Drive on young man!
GTJOEY1314
Joey,
I have the 123 TUNE+ on my Series 2. It allows you to configure the advance curve (Advance vs RPMs) as you want, as well as specifying a Rev Limit. It also incorporates a Vacuum input, which you can use to configure a vacuum advance curve (Advance vs Absolute Pressure) as you want. As far as I can tell, the distributor itself works well, and behaves as configured. However, it has a few drawbacks. [I was a software engineer by profession, and very persistent when it comes to problem solving. I believe that most folks would give up on the 123TUNE+ with an Android phone and return it - I nearly did several times…] Anyway - here are the drawbacks: Firstly, it uses Bluetooth to connect to your phone, and that connection does not work well. I spent a lot of time trying to get it to work with my Android phone. Occasionally it would sync up, but mostly it wouldn’t, or would drop the connection and require the 123 to be reset (which involves jumping the connections to the unit). Maybe it works better with the iPhone? This brings me to the second drawback: support is pretty much zero. The documentation which comes with the product is very sparse and confusing. Nowhere, for example, does it describe how to reset the unit, though you rapidly discover that you are going to have to do this over and over… I did find a couple of online web sites (not from the manufacturer) that highlighted the fact that the product WOULD NOT WORK with Android 7.x, even though this is not mentioned anywhere in the 123 documentation! That site also suggested some workarounds for Bluetooth on Android that helped somewhat. Apparently, Bluetooth on Android has some generic problems that affect connections to a range of products - not just the 123. Thirdly, the phone APP itself is rather clunky and buggy. Once familiar with it’s foibles, you can make it do what you want, but it’s not very intuitive. The idea of being able to set up the distributor from your phone, and then monitor and adapt it as the car is driven (yes - from the Passenger seat!) is very neat. However, in reality, it’s not quite there. That said, once it;s set up you don’t need all the Bluetooth/APP stuff, so you can just forget about it. There is another 123 version, called the 123 TUNE (no “+”) which uses a USB connection to a laptop to control it, which I’ve heard may not have some of the problems of the 123 TUNE+. Others on this forum may be able to comment on that version - one of it’s advantages is that it supports 2 independent advance curves that you can switch between just by changing an electrical connection, so you could have “street” and “track” setups if you wanted. On the 123TUNE+ you can do the same thing, but you have to use your phone (and hope that Bluetooth is working that day…). Hope this helps.
Thank you my friend!
These are the tips I need for the 21st century, I want it to last til at least 2099 
Great feed back.
GTJOEY1314
I had not heard this. Do you have a source for that information?
Have many identical mods - also a '64 FHC
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I think “wizzard cooling” still may make a USA Al radiator. I have a reboxed ‘cool kat’ as the wizard was quite dear.
You know when someone says leave things alone because it works!
But you know better…
I couldn’t get to the fuses as the door wouldn’t drop with the huge boom soeakers🙄
So enjoy
It’s all going and will be recovered by weeks end
Shame as a previous person drilled holes into the side panels🙄
Oh more fumes coming in
New rubber boot coming as well
gtjoey1314
Ps I was showing the very original wiring as someone jumped a hot fan switch and grounded the switch to the oil gage post!!! B
Your 70 likely had a KE transmission. The 66-67 EJ is the close ratio. Big difference in the driving experience.
The UK AC kit (name escapes me) comes in three versions. The only one I’d consider is the one with the evaporator inside the car (in the radio console). The two with the evaporator in the heater box wouldn’t stand a chance in the American Southwest. The one with the evap in the console requires modifications to the vertical console, so you might want to make your decision before putting money in a new one.
Dynamat is for sound attenuation and is a very poor heat barrier. Some use Coolmat. I elected to make a full span heat deflector for above the exhaust system and a thermal tunnel shield. Plan for this when you pull the engine. Here are my solutions for heat control.
Nice work…….your nuts like me!
When I get past these easy cosmetics, Im probably going t5 for the 5 speed.
Lets see and yes the same shielding…
The cool mat and dynamat make a HUGE differene on long travels.
What is the big shield made out of?
gtjoey1314
Oh and the reason why I still love you is because of your best friend… looks like my guy who is 15 years old
What stereo speakers will fit in the original spot that are good but the magnet is small in the back.
Thanks.
gtjoey1314
Nothing nuts about it. If you want an aftermarket AC to work well, you have to give it some help. The heat shield is fabricated from 1/4" aluminum honeycomb (Shapiro Metal Supply). Very stiff, easy to shape with a Dremel. The polished ceramic coating on virtually everything(maybe a little crazy) is from a local coatings specialist who works with the offshore oil industry (it’s not powder coating). He also did the exhaust manifolds. The transmission pad is a sandwhich of Mylar bubble sheet (bottom layer) and thin Dyna-pad. ( The factory foam over the gearbox is a bad joke). The lower heat barrier inside the transmission cover is made from leftovers…and it absolutely shuts off hot air leakage around the shifter.
Rufus (the Dufus) loves riding in the pickup with his head hanging out the window and those floppy ears trailing in the slip stream. He’s not allowed in the Jaguar…yet.
How old, its funny they still need a leash, like where are they going to go…