Lets guess its value

(L.Lynn '68 OTS, '73 2+2) #21

I agree Bill, I’ve learned quite a bit from some of the folks on BAT about cars I know very little, however I think there is a fine line between educating and ‘detracting’ IMHO.

(Bill Bilotti 1966 S1 OTS (in boxes)) #22

I never put a car on CL. All you get is ***holes calling you. Maybe it’s just this part of the country.

I have better luck with Cars.com

these are normal streetcars.

I did sell a Spitfire once to someone who got their Hemmings special delivery, saw the ad before I even got my copy of Hemmings.

(1967 FHC) #23

I wouldn’t put it past some non-bidders to try and scare away buyers other than their friend who is bidding. Too much manipulation with online sales sites.


(1967 FHC) #24

I agree with LLynn and think it will go in the 70s. Just to be different I will say an even $70K. That’s way too much IMO since it is not matching numbers and is an unassembled bitsa. Few individuals can handle the required refurbishment of the parts and reassembly, but davidxk is obviously one of them who can and keep the costs within the estimated value. Anyone paying for others to restore and reassemble it is going to be upside down. Maybe for the seller already having one red Series 1 OTS is enough.


(Scott Johnson) #25

I see the car is in Kiln, Mississippi, perhaps best known as the hometown and current residence of Brett Favre. (I was trying to work that fact into a joke about both the quarterback and the car being accurately described as “#4”, but realized it would be too obscure and obtuse to actually be humorous)

(Kevin Wiseman) #26

I am just curious what your estimate would be if this was a matching numbers Jag. I am in a similar situation as this seller only I have just started the restoration process. I have been collecting missing parts for the past two years. I have a 63 OTS I purchased two years ago that was an abandoned restoration back in the mid 80’s. I have the original engine but the original gearbox was missing. i have since acquired a Tremec 5 spd gearbox.


(Pascal G) #27

If most of the important bits are there and if the body work is good without any surprises it could be worth $90k as is. These run what in good (not excellent) conditions? $150k? Deduct $20k for non matching engine… that leaves $40k to put it together, correct a few things and buy whatever is missing.

The problem is how do you know the body work doesn’t hold any surprises

(1967 FHC) #28

In my opinion, matching numbers would add $10-15K to the price in similar rebuilt shape. Some people like the original Moss box, however, a Tremec 5 speed is an excellent addition and a preferred item by many. My 67 FHC is mostly original and I was able to find and cad plate the original Cheneys, nuts and setscrews. That matters to some people a lot, but not everyone.


(Pete55Tbird) #29

I see a lot of guys " talking their book " here. Pete

(Paul Wigton) #30


(Pete55Tbird) #31


(Erica Moss) #32

It seems to me to be the opposite. If we were talking up our holdings we’d be talking up the value of that car because what’s good for it is good for us. Most people seem to be airing suspicions about that car being a great buy though. It’s not a turkey by any stretch. We’ve seen much much worse projects.

(Erica Moss) #33

That is the biggest red flag. No bare metal photos to show the work done, combined with strange paint choices following the body work. Admittedly, I’d have the same problem if I were to sell my car. It was restored 25 years ago. The bodywork was done by a company that no longer exists. I have no photos and only a vague understanding of what panels were replaced at that time.

(Erica Moss) #34

I’m less worried about the boot lid. I noticed that they’ve tried to fit the bulb seal on the boot edge and there are pretty well documented issues with that seal on a 3.8. If I tried to install one, my lid would protrude also. I’m more worried about the bonnet, particularly on the right hand side. The seller posted an old photo of the car from before the restoration and the bonnet fit was not great either. It’s been improved from the work but still looks off to me.

(David Langley) #35

I’m waiting with baited breath for the restorer to answer the question from one of the commenters who claims to be interested in bidding, though hasn’t so far. He asked if the restorer would be willing to finish the job. He replied, Yes, and would only do so on a by-the-hour, or by-the-day basis. So, the question was asked, how many hours does the restorer think are required to finish the job? Great question! No one else is better qualified to answer. If he goes silent, it will negatively impact the auction. If he gives a high number, it will have the same effect. If he gives a low number, he could be on the hook for it. He’s going to have to come up with a feel good, non-committal answer. Where are all the politicians when you need one…:grinning:

(Erica Moss) #36

I’d take any answer with a grain of salt because I’m already dubious about some of the decisions made. It seems like almost no attention at all is being paid to correctness. How much research would it take to have not gone crazy with the silver spray paint for example? It will never be a concourse winner but that doesn’t mean it needs to look totally wrong. The seats at least appear to have been done pretty well.

I’m wondering how much the bonnet fit could be improved by re-shimming it. It seems like they went way overboard on the forward shims. Maybe that was just to safely mount it.

(David Langley) #37

…but are the incorrect seats for the car! Unfortunately, the car has been “under restoration” over the past 25-30 years under 4 separate owners. As a result, it’s not clear what work was done by the current owner, and what by earlier owners that we cannot question. I’ve asked some questions to clarify what the current owner and restorer have done, but it’s clear that some past decisions, such as those that you and others have raised, are puzzling at best. I agree that the bonnet fit is one of the larger concerns about the body.

(Erica Moss) #38

Nope not correct, but superior seats if you want to drive any distance. My back starts hurting pretty fast in my 3.8 seats. They require different seat rails though, so I hope they have the right ones, and I believe they’ll need different mounting points drilled as well.

The chain of ownership and past work is my biggest issue with this project. My purchase was very similar to this and it was a nightmare. The car was an aborted restoration sold in this condition to the PO who then slap dashed it together with an awful and barely running engine (supposedly rebuilt), poorly assembled, poorly trimmed etc. The whole thing had to come apart again.

The more I look at that bonnet, the more convinced I am that it can be improved by someone that understands the adjustments. If I was interested in bidding I’d be asking the seller point blank to climb under and count the fore/aft shims. If there are some, then it can be scooted back into alignment (notice how the left hand wheel well arc doesn’t line up). If there are no shims then it’s hosed and can’t be fixed without major work and repainting.

It also needs one up/down shim on the right hinge to make that line parallel. I think both hinges need to be loosened and the whole thing bumped over about 1/8" to the left. The left hand wing seems to be a bit recessed and the right wing slightly protrudes. At that point it should fit reasonably well. Not much to be done about the black goop though.

FWIW the doors fit great, better than mine!

edit: I gather the engine rebuild is recent since a lump was just removed. Did the seller provide compression numbers? Does it have any warranty?

(Gerald Ireland) #39

Hi all have been following this thread,my question to the group, is a complete barn find car like the one sold on BAT 8/3/17 for $83,000 a better bet than the partial restoration being discussed?

Regards Gerry 62 Ots.

(Paul Wigton) #40

In my professional opinion, no answer posited will be worth a bucket of warm spit, if not bolstered by a 3-5 hour physical inspection of the 1:1 kit.