NOOOOOOOOOO!..
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What follows is my attempt at a little humor. Nothing really to do with this thread or my project. Don’t read it if you don’t want to read a “wordy” non E type post
Budget: First world whining. It’s a funny topic in our house. Were not poor but not rich whatever that means in the USA. The deal has been we live on current income except where “investments” are concerned (this is where we steal from real investments and purchase “dream on” investments. . We may tap the retirement account for the bigger items and that should work as it has for many years so far for what is left of the rest of our lives. BUT our hobbies are similar in that the flying game and the horses game have huge continuous drains on current income. We both DIY everything which allows us to live way above our station in life. We are not veterinarians and even though I work as an A&P apprentice it’s a small shop and my pay barely covers my flying expenses. It is nice to love going to work at 70 years old but my wife would prefer to have me at home. So my wife and I never say “no” to each other- until now! When I showed her the “E” on ebay she actually said “no”. “You just finished the twin and I figure I should get more of you!” Ugghh! Cold water in the face! The horses usually come through every month or so with an expensive, non recoverable, teeth cleaning, horseshoeing, hay emergency, training tune up, etc. that changes the subject long enough that anything I want to do is overlooked and I figured this would happen this time. It didn’t - For once the horses just behaved themselves in their stalls eating hay. Oh no-revert back to the old days of bargaining. What do I have to bargain with for this car project? Hmm- Ahhh the mess. What follows is no disrespect for the dead, but as one of the last surviving family members of a bunch of family members who either didn’t have children or just two, my brother and I have buildings and rooms full of family stuff to go through, store, or throw away. This is what happens to those who outlive everyone else. In the last twenty years Aunts, Uncles, Grand Parents and our own parents (most of whom were hoarders I have to say) have passed on and it all came to my brother and me. We both have farms with barns, storage sheds etc. (you can see where this is going?). We have thrown away way more than we kept. Truckloads went to Goodwill, Habitat, and the dump. Over time the aunts and uncles stuff has been thrown away finally and even the parents stuff pared down but there eventually reaches a point where, yes the storage is full, but you just get tired of hauling and throwing things away and whats left seems to have perceived value. My wife’s family left her two boxes! That’s it. The mess of other peoples stuff is totally one sided.
And so the E-type project bargain (ETPB in FAA speak) was struck. I would clean out the barn, garage, 52’ ocean going container, and “Oh by the way-you have to get the Supercub spars out of the kitchen overhead and the ailerons out of our bedroom”. My wife is smart enough to get a little “boot” in the bargaining… “Yes dear” .
Epilogue: The ETPB was purchased, some cleaning has been done and parts are to come out of current income.
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Hey lucius:
Regarding the ETPB, perhaps it’s time to consider adopting some terminology borrowed from the boating or nautical community for future reference. Have you heard the term “boat unit”? A boat-owner friend of mine mentioned this one to me several years ago and I had no clue what he was talking about. Turns out one “boat unit” is a convenient code meaning $1000! So when SWMBO asks “How much?” you could adapt and say “It only cost me one Jag unit, dear.” 
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As I told you in the PM I sent you, I have your mythical unicorn…an IRS and a complete front suspension that were removed from a wrecked Arizona 2+2 in the mid-70s.
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Origin of the boat unit phrase. Boat stands for Break Out Another Thousand.
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Eric- PM sent.
AMU’s Aviation monetary units. Same denominations as boat and “E” units. I need to study the interchangeability of 2+2 and FHC suspension systems before Eric writes or calls! 
Totally interchangeable!
In fact, for a Series I or II everything forward of the bulkhead is interchangeable. The only exception is very minor; the Series II 2+2 had a windscreen with a more shallow angle which necessitated moving the wind screen washer nozzles from the scuttle to a central hole in the bonnet. Same for the rear suspension
I guess it’s unanimous. Everything in the front and rear suspension is interchangeable Series 1 and 2, roadster, coupe and 2+2 (except brake cable and hose on IRS). Very good information to have. At the moment the two technical publications I have are the Moss catalogue and a the Haynes catalogue. Moss does not identify the parts they don’t sell except to show them in the background of the exploded views.
How about other Jaguars? I’m sure the front end components are not the same but other than width (wish bones, axles and cage) are there other directly interchangeable parts (like say the IRS brake system and differential) from other models?
[quote=“lucius, post:1, topic:381747”]
So 16K car, 500 airline, 1300 truck, 1500 Washington State taxes, 500 gas, ie about 20K total, I have a titled Series one 1966 FHC E-type in my garage. OK the shell, but hidden and not really spelled out in the advert originally included was the door internals, all the glass including a nos windshield, 2 seats in decent original condition, dash top, gas tank, “other stuffs”.
I would say, in relative terms compared to this other fine eBay offering (see below), you’ve got yourself a good solid E-Type (with real steel) to put back together. Check this one out and consider yourself lucky! About the only good thing IMO is that it apparently has a clear title.
And Wiggles mentions “Jaguar heaven” - maybe that’s where this one should be. 
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I have seen that car on ebay. I’ve seen all the cars on ebay unfortunately :-). Front end parts (all of them) seem to be worth 3K (made a list of ebay pieces this morning early), Irs probably 3 k, engine and tranny 4 k (no triple carbs on this one). title for series 1 probably worth 10k. Little pieces & parts another $??? I don’t know but as one who needs all that stuff except the title I wish I could buy it for 7-8000. I would like to have all those parts and it would go a long ways towards keeping me from getting upside down.
I’ll try Jaguar Heaven this morning later. Thanks all for your help and interest.
I don’t know, Lucius. Like most of the parts on an E, the front suspension frame rails rust from the inside out. You really don’t want anything that is as critical as the frame rails to be anything other than 100% sound. With a car like that one, I wouldn’t even purchase the ignition key without personally inspecting it. I applaud your efforts to save money on what is unavoidably an expensive project (I’m probably the most tight-fisted member of the form), but please don’t cut corners on items that concern safety (brakes, suspension, tires, etc.).
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I assume you saw this
Again to reiterate…and help ea$e the pain$…get a SI/II/II XJ6, remove the engine, do whats needed to make it a E engine, then get it running with that.
Later on, somewheres, an E engine will pop up.
Agreed: Lucius, just step up to the Martin Robey pump, and get all new front frames.
Just a thought. Since in either case the engine wouldn’t be a matching numbers engine would it really matter if the block and head were out of an XJ6 or another E-type?
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Hi Mark. Rest assured I’ll be careful where safety is concerned. My frame rails appear very good and they are with the car.
Thank you to those of you who suggest Jaguar Heaven. It looks like the IRS is sorted from them. It will be removed from a series two complete with hardware and spline hubs! This is coming in “on” budget for this month. AND speaking of budget I will have to wait until December for the next section.
Bob I did watch that. It was more than I wanted to pay and missing the cage. I did mull it over a lot as it had many new parts.
Paul. In spite of the title of this thread I don’t want a “lump” so yes a 4.2 Jag engine. I think Rod’s planter will help when the time comes. I believe I need a different water pump if not an “E” engine. I will probably put off the triple SU’s initially and just use something like Webers.
John only the body and frame will be matching numbers on this car so that ship probably sailed in the 80’s or 90’s when I think it was dismantled.
Because I’m buying the IRS I won’t be able to bid on the nice little 4.2 4 speed gearbox and bell housing in 2 days on ebay. Oh well. My friend put a new 5 speed in his series 2 but
he wants to keep the 4 speed in case he ever sells the car. Maybe I can “store” it for him.
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This post is not meant to be confrontational and I don’t have all the answers but since part safety was brought up (thank you all for your concern and please keep on me about it) I thought I would present some thoughts and facts from the aircraft world. Oh and the following is controversial even there among seasoned mechanics. Hopefully this starts a conversation about this.
I work in a field where life and death hang on making proper decisions about repair work and paying attention. That said the dirty little secret is that most mechanical problems with an aircraft come right after the mechanic has worked on it. The more we do the more the chance for a failure. The accident investigations show this. There is a school of thought that parts should only be replaced “on condition” that is when inspection reveals a problem or the aircraft starts talking to you (excessive oil consumption, noise, handling etc.) The whole notion of euthanizing a perfectly good engine or part based on time in service fly’s in the face of statistical evidence where “crib death” of a new or rebuilt engine shows the most likely time for a catastrophic failure is within the first 100-200 hours of operation. After that they will let you know with plenty of warning that their life is through. It can happen any time but generally when an engine is run conservatively it takes a long time to destroy itself. If it “grenades” it happens when it’s new.
If the door won’t close on an “E” it’s really time to leave it parked and figure out whats wrong. But I would ask (and I may be completely wrong) but how many E types have come apart at highway speeds killing or even injuring the occupants? I don’t know the answer to that but I’m guessing the rust problems have been more “pocket book” problems rather than safety problems.
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A SIII, accessorized properly, aint a lump, and only the sharpest trained eye will be able to tell.
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As a result of collapsed frames?
None that I know of, but, since you are conversant in au=ircraft stuff, those frames are made a VERY thin steel alloy, by Reynolds, and almost invariably, irrespective of how well;l the car was taken care of, are rusted even thinner.
I have no doubt you are about safety (my Dad was an aircraft wrench) so no lectures from me!