Not sure if the coil pack needs its own ground, I did so out of abundance of caution.
If you haven’t already, try swapping your VR leads.
Coil layout if anyone doesn’t know. A - C is spark plugs.
The coil could either be grounded or 12V+ feeded, depending on the ignition drivers which usually ground the signal from the 12V+ feeded coil as in picture.
Sorry to hear of your difficulties with no spark.
Without knowing your plug lead order on the coil pack I cannot say whether you have the correct set up.
You have the same coil pack connector sequence as I do.
If you have no spark, check the VR pickup wiring - it might be reversed. Also disconnect the lead to the EDIS and measure the VR output voltage when cranking. If you have an AC reading DVM you should see about 300mV rms. In my case with an 0.080" gap to the toothed wheel, I see 500mV rms at 500RPM.
As I understand the system, the EDIS sends signals in the sequence pin 10, pin 12, pin 11.
I connected these to Coil A, Coil B, Coil C.
The plug leads are fitted so that Coil A has #1 and #6 , Coil B has #5 and #2, and Coil C has #3 and #4.
The plug leads therefore progress around the coil pack 1,2,3,4,5,6, as Ray Livingstone described which is easier to deal with in case of difficulty.
The Datsun 240Z people (with the same firing order) run a different connection to the coil pack , but then do not have their plug leads in nice numerical order around the coil pack.
When I ran my test rig I used a timing light to check the firing sequence was correct.
Good luck
Bruce
I have my plug wires setup as instructed, in order 1 2 3 4 5 6 going around. I fellow on the UK forum says his coil connector wiring is in the opposite order of mine, but it seems folks here are saying it’s the same…
Latest test is this. I swapped the VR sensor wiring and got some firing, puffs and backfires. So it seems that was definitely an issue, but I’m also feeling like the coil wiring is not right it doesn’t seem the plugs are firing correctly to run the motor.
I guess next is to try different orientations of the wires until something works…
Fixed it!!! I started swapping plug wires around and got different combinations of puffs and fires. Finally got a combo and bang started right up and ran real nice! Hooray! I will post the final arrangement shortly. Thanks all.
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Excellent. Sounds like VR sensor polarity and firing order were the issues?
Yes, VR was backwards, and the firing order. I originally wired the plug and ordered the wires as it seems is the most commonly correct arrangement I can find on various forums posts.
This is the arrangement that runs. Perhaps my coil is somehow backwards? I also assume I can re-order the wires going into the plug and keep the original plus wire order but not sure I want to mess with it now that it’s working.
The coil pack is three coils, each firing two cylinders simultaneously. So long as you have the properly paired cylinders on the same coil (the cylinders that are 180 degrees apart) and the three coils firing in the correct order you’re golden. Your pairing is the same as mine, but you have your coils in a different order. Since you’re not relying on a spinning rotor it just matters in what order you wire the three coils via the coil pack plug.
Glad it’s running well…don’t mess with it!
Did you ever get your laptop to connect? Mine worked without a hitch (Microsoft Surface running Windows 10). I believe there is some sensitivity around the connector/adapter you use. If I recall Autosport Labs had a list of qualified connectors that I chose from.
Funny how your coils are in a different order than mine and also from the ‘suggested’ layout that I’ve found in other threads. The only thing that annoys me is that I had custom wires made, and now that I’ve changed the order they are all too long or too short!
I haven’t been able to connect my laptop. It’s a windows 10 computer with the new smaller USB cable that came with the MJ. Brent at Autosport gave me a link to the driver to reinstall which I will try. Otherwise, borrowing computers from friends (After appropriate disinfections of course)
I bought the special little dongle from Autosport labs: mine would never hook up, either.
Theo – your original coil pack wiring would have worked…you had the pairs correct. You could revert back to that and maintain the custom plug wires. All you need to do is figure out the correct config for the three wires that feed into the coil pack (which trigger the coils to fire). That was the exact issue I had and swapping two of the three wires solved my problem. You’ll just need to figure out the correct order of the three wires, but that’s pretty simple in the grand scheme of things.
Ya, I know, but its easier to change the plug wires than cut those other wires and swap them around till they work then resolder them…ugh. Do the job right they say… Maybe I’ll do that this weekend.
And I fixed the computer issue today, Brent sent me windows drivers to reinstall. It worked and now my laptop connects. I cant wait to test drive this weekend!
Cool. Can’t wait to hear about the road test. Mine is far from being back on the road.
OK, started the motor up with the MJ ECU running and it’s reading the RPM at 2x. You can see here at idle (felt like about 700) it was reading 1100 / 1200. Also my tach isn’t working. I have a Mike Eck converted tach, and I believe it’s connected to the proper pin out. Tach is not working at all. Is that the right way to wire the tach?
EDIT: I reinstalled the global settings to make sure it’s set for a 6 cylinder. Clicked “write options” about 10 minutes to make sure. Started up and it’s all good! Runs amazingly smoothly and starts first turn. What a difference!
Well I finally got my EDIS running. I was not sure what map to use so I worked one out from the Jaguar service data.
I have written up a document that describes what I did and the results I obtained.
I am happy how it all turned out and do not think I have anything else I need to do.
BruceFirst road test and ignition mapping.pdf (1.0 MB)
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Nice! Glad to see it’s working and running well. Your timing curve is much much different from mine! I guess different engines as well. I am going to play around a bit with mine, I think it could take more advance at idle. I backed off 1500-2000 by 1* as I thought I heard some pinging which went away after reducing the timing. The engine runs wonderfully, very smooth and predictable, and the mid range RPM pulls a LOT harder than it did before.
Very nice. Did you get your tach to work? I also have a Mike Eck converted tach and it works great off the tach lead from the MJ. I did a side by side bench compare and it was very close to what MJ was reading.
Where was your tach wired too before? Mine was on the negative post on the coil (I think it was the negative post but now I’m second guessing myself). I connected it to the pin on the MJ but it’s dead. I just ordered the diode board from ASL, basically you run a jumper from all three of the coil lead wires and the board converts those to the signal that drives the tach. I’ll see if that works this weekend.
Below is from email exchange with the Man himself. My tach was wired originally to the original tach generator. Part of the exchange with Mike not covered below was whether I wanted it to work off the original tach generator or using a pulse signal (i.e. from an electronic ignition). I opted for the latter.
Very interesting… I had the wire pinned to the right output. I will try it again, but I already ordered that adapter board so even if the tach out doesn’t work that adapter should.