I’ve just joined the forum, though I’ve been restoring my '61 Mk.2 3.4 MOD off and on (mostly off) for the last few years. The engine ran when I bought it years ago, but I’ve never had it running while it’s been in my garage. I’ve spent a lot of time cleaning/rebuilding the SU carburetors, and I’ve been mostly good at documenting things, but have 2 questions before I try firing it up again, both relating to the starting carburetor:
Will it start without it connected?
I ask, because the copper piece with connectors for the wires have snapped where they bend at 90 degrees. All the major parts places in North America sell the entire starting carburetor as a single unit. I might try creating one from scratch, but does anyone happen to have an extra one of those they would be willing to sell?
Pretty sure there will be more follow-up questions…
Try doing a search under part number AUD 9490, and I think you will find multiple suppliers of the solenoid, although not cheap. This is not the entire AED carburetor. If you advertise for a used solenoid in classifieds you might find one. If you are handy, you might be able to solder new tabs, but it’s a fiddle. I’ve not seen any parts for the solenoid if that’s what you meant.
The car would likely struggle, but might start if your environment is not too cold and the engine is in good tune. I suppose you could remove the spring and plunger, replace the solenoid, start the car, and reverse all that after you’ve warmed it up, but I haven’t tried that. No harm in trying if you just want to see if it runs. I always wire the solenoid to a manual switch under the dash to allow proper operation as the Otter switch system is unreliable.
Thanks for the advice! Will do the search first, and if that doesn’t turn up anything, will try my hand at soldering, though I’ve never been much good at it.
I haven’t had much luck with soldering before, but I suspect I’ll have to improve anyways once I get past getting the engine running and start addressing other wiring issues!
I sold my car so I can’t run out and confirm, but I think the solenoid functions to lift the center rod in the AED to allow extra fuel to flow to the carb. If so, then you can lift that rod manually, and wrap a bent paper clip around it while you first start your engine.
Also you can retard your spark to first start your engine, that helps too.
Then remove the clip and advance your spark when the engine warms up a little bit.
Shade tree mechanics rule.
P
I recently learned, much to my surprise, that on the S Type at some point Jaguar fitted a manual switch to override the Otter switch. I was never aware of this until this week. Do not know where the switch was located on the fascia or if it was also an optional feature on the Mark II. I’ve used a manual switch with warning lamp to override early shut off by the Otter switch on my S Type for decades.
You are correct about how the AED works, but the solenoid plate seats within the AED body, and you can’t tinker with the plunger without taking the solenoid off. The way the fuel and air combine in the AED, I’d be surprised if the engine would run with it off completely.
I think that you shouldn’t need to alter the spark timing to get your engine to start. These engines start easily in stock form with standard tuning.
Always scrub off the iron, tin the tip, use plenty of flux everywhere and the heat must come from the to be soldered part, not just from the iron which should be at temperature.
I‘m also favoring soldering, just try on a few pieces beforehand. Less is more, when it flows into the crevices it is good.
I bought my 1967 Mark 2 3.4 31 years ago, knowing a complete engine rebuild was necessary. The mechanic kept the car for nine weeks, allowing me to ‘visit’ his shop and document progress. When the car was ready, he advised me to find a replacement enrichment device, as mine was ‘on the way out.’ I found a used one in an ad in Hemmings Motor News located in Chicago. Remember, this was 1989, and there were few if any working computers out there. The unit worked for 31 years, but, several months ago, it finally went ‘kaput’. I bought a new one from SNG Barratt, a bit pricey, but it works without any problems. I’d recommend you just spend the money on the new unit, install it, and forget about having to deal with weak soldered connections.
I am starting to have a sporadic problem with my AED. I have a manual switch but I can not always hear the solenoid click. I frequently have to have my wife man the starter button while I jiggle the wires to hear a click. It then starts within two seconds. Should I be pushing the plunger down or try to hold it up if the electricity is not competing a circuit?
The carbs were rebuilt over ten years ago and have worked fairly well with only a few times of gassy odors or poor mileage.
If the plunger is the jet equivalent I don’t know if it will do you any good when the solenoid opens the air path. You would need to pull up the plunger of the solenoid with the large disc on it that closes off the air when it is not energized. Is it the wires or the solenoid? (Easy to find out).
I sort of think it is one or both of the spade terminals. I have a manual switch so I can hear when the AED energizes, if it does. I usually turn it off within 2 minutes and then back on at the stoplight two kilometers away to avoid stalling and then shut it off when I get into third gear and then I’m good from there. I see a prominent plunger that I need to watch to see how it reacts when the circuit is energized.
So as you can tell, I’m doing this very slowly, so as I was considering how to possibly tackle the soldering of the connectors, I noticed a potential issue. As you can see in the attached photo, even if I can the solder the tabs at a 90 degree angle, I don’t see how the two wires can attach to the leads and exit from the cap. The cap in the photo is actually shown placed 180 degrees from how it has to sit on the solenoid. The leads must actually fold over nearly flat, over the 2 tabs, given that they have matching hole. But then how would the wires connect? By any chance, does anyone have a photo of this device with the cap off?
I do have one laying about but can’t put my hands on it to take a pic .
Looking at the problem I would do this !
Solder the 3 parts together , then solder over the pole on the Solenoid !
Maybe it’s a early one , and a little diffrent , I assumed they was all the same , there is no reason why you could not have ring terminals on the wire from the loom , to place over the poles , and hold in place with a clip !
Yes your is the early one, before Lucas spade terminals were the norm. My Mk9 one is like that.
I think it’s safer to actually solder a couple of wires directly to the terminals. This stops any stray sparks from igniting petrol fumes In the area. A chief cause of under bonnet fires on these cars.
I’m fairly sure my XK150 is original. The wires have ring connectors that fit over the posts. The inside if the cap has moldings that hold the connectors in place. To ensure a good connection I found serrated lock washers (not split ring) that fit snugly over the posts and hold the connectors in place. I would suggest you not try to solder directly to the solenoid as the heat may damage it.
