Yes when the snow clears
Mike
YES I was billed and at the time I complained
I am using screw in adapter and cranking until the needle stops I also wanted to try another instrument but don’t have access to one
There was some blow back thru number 6 spark plug orifice which points to m improper seating. I didn’t try with oil last 
Today checking the butterflies and see if the ide responds. Will drive it when snow clears
Mike
2 things
It is probably possible to undo the head exhaust manifold nuts, pull the manifolds back and try to view the valve heads. If they are brand new (or not), that should be visible. (Fairly new Ex gaskets can be re-used)
think I have mentioned this before but at this time I would certainly perform a leakdown test.
I believe in the USA such tools can be “loaned” from a parts store, but if not, they are an inexpensive part of kit, and are the correct tool for diagnosing compression issues
I cannot recall what you said happened when you checked the vacuum gauge readings against the chart. A vacuum gauge will usually give a good indication of a good vs unhealthy motor
Apologies if I am repeating myself or telling you what you already know
Hi Tony What do you mean by a leak down test Not familiar Its not just putting oil down the cylinders
I did the vacuum test to9day Used the outlet from the manifold Its was about 16 It came up with revving the engine but maybe 17 was the max
When revved it went a lot negative and then came back to the resting pressure
Today I found one problem for the fast idle The short connection from accelerator linkage , connection with the fixture on the carb shaft and the rail connecting the two carbs Don’t know the names for these bits Took it out and shortened it Had to get my wife to help aShe couldn’t see well and found it as unpleasant as I did
I took it off and shortened it as it was inh8bi8ting letting the idle coming down
It was all together a four hour job
This morning I did TDC with 5 before TDC which is what the Toronto expert said, because of the quality of the gas I had the number 6 load and the Rotor right on and she started first time Sounded healthy for the first time She now seems to start easily
The front 3 cars were turning the Gunston Blue after a bit of fiddling
Maybe a road test tomorrow
Look forward to you reply
Mioke
Google leak down test or You Tube.
If you haven’t already then oil in the bores will see if its the rings are at fault.
Good that you found a fault, an XJ engine runs like crap if the air and fuel mixture through each carb isnt the same
I use a Gunson air flow meter, which is a cheap plastic gauge that shows air flow through each carb mouth, I consider this a necessary tool for a dual, or especially tri carb Jag
I also use a vernier caliper tail to measure down from the carb jet bridge to top of adjustable jet, specs are available in the archives, they should be the same
A leakdown test kit allows air from a compressor to be pumped into each cylinder, and with the valves closed, it measures the % of loss over time, being acceptable or not
If there is a fault internally, you can usually detect the sound of air hissing out the oil filler cap in the case of rings, exhaust pipe for ex valves, carbs for inlet valves
I suggest you have a read up on it, like I say the toolkit is inexpensive
However, first I suggest you get your car driving as well as possible.
fix known faults first
I use a Guinson Today just for the 4 5 6 It’s a nice shade of blue
Il look up the the leak down kit Thanks
Mike
The Gunson I am talking off is an airflow meter, not the clear spark plug
It is pressed up against the mouth of the carb, slots are adjusted, and connected to a graduated clear plastic tube with a ball in it will show if each carb is drawing the same amount of air through it.
This is vital to smooth running
You can buy more expensive tools to do it, or the old fashioned way is ear to a length of garden hose, but the Gunson air flow meter I have used it many times
Also Mike, next time you have the car running, and after a good warm up, pull the breather hose away from the adaptor at the front/top of the engine. The hose runs to the induction plenum. There should be minimal mist (blowby crankcase vapours) exiting the adaptor. This will give you some idea about the internal health of your engine.
Before I rebuilt one if my engines, I had a stream if vapour - under some pressure!
I haver been using the original air flow tool with the red ball
Am in the middle of getting the mixture right Alternating linkage to get the idle right is my first step
Mike
At present I haven nothing connected to the breather cover I will have to find out what the adapter looks like and what is an induction Plenum
Mike
As I have a collection of stethoscopes I cut of the end of one of th expensive ones,
I once had one belonging to Christian Barnard, of heart transplants. His son worked for me
I also have my fathers stethoscope dating back to the 30s or 40s
Mike
I will send some pictures tomorrow if someone does not beat me to it.
I have it Paul I have the original Jag parts books 4 in all
mike
Its what the carbs feed into.
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Is it, or or what the carbs feed from, ie upstream of them? Carbs feed into the inlet tracts\manifold.
Good point and I think you are correct, what’s happens when you have individual air cleaners 
Yes I think that sound right. I found it It was hiding with the air cleaner ll look att what comes ouot when its running evenly
I bought a Leak down tester But wont use it until the lady has had a good run
Successfully sorted out the linkage , 4 hours, scratches and some bleeding Asked the love of my life to help.Got a flea in mky ear for not explaining exactly what I was proposing to do.
All well. Charging the battery and will see if I can get the mixture right later on
Mkike
So I took the lady out for a trial run. A couple of Ks form home there was a huge bang, steam came out form under the hood. Coolant poured form two holes in the new asluminum rad
One of the c fan blades was curled upon itself and had caused the problem
The good news is that the sewing machine noise which I thought was a gremlin in the engine box was in fact the fan bladé impinging on the rad I will check the engine mounts tomorrow
I have found an advances lazar and aluminum welding shop who says they can repair the rad
I Am GOING TO LOOK INOT AN ELCTRIC FAN TO REPLCE THE METAL ONE ON THE CRANK any THOUGHTS THERE
The rich treasures in the panoply of life
Mike