MK11 wont start

That’s good but I can use the cigar lighter to charge my phone which has a battery that seems to last about two hours+

Will see if the two rogue wires hanging under the dash are important They are dead but I don’t know what they connected to

More time under the dash


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One side of the ASC is connected directly to the ignition circuit. To activate it, the other side needs to be grounded either through the Otter switch or through an owner-installed switch. You may find that your mystery wire is routed to the ground side if the ASC and the other wire goes to a grounding point.

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The switch is grounded to the Otter The rogue wires are green brown an green so detective work later today I’m getting ready to gyp rock the garage celing before getting an epoxy floor Don’t know where the coffee machine and the pull out bed will go B y thesway the definition of irony is getting pregnant on a pull out bed Mike


It started and it ran quite sweetly If only Id known that the aux Carb wasn’t wiresd in

I have managed to disengage fuel an temp and flashers and one fog light More time in and under the dash but not today

Mike Thanks to all for all the help


The lighted switch is just a warning lamp so one knows when the ASC is under manual control. Here’s mine.

John that’s neat I put two LEDs , very small and green in between the speedo and the rev counter Thy are attached to the indicator wire Its is so easy to see the indacotrs working now The green ones on the dash are hard to see at the best of times and in sunlight impossible

UI may well look for a lighted switch At present I’m in 6th heaven hearing the car actually purring


You probably saw the latest posts The car started and ran well after I got the Aux Carb working That may have been a problem for months /??




They will never run ok unless ASC and carbs are tuned and working properly

It seems we never saw the woods from the trees

Its possible your head is not perfect, but just drive it for a while

Continuing the discussion from MK11 wont start:

Hi Paul Thought I would update the forum

My Mk11 is now starting like a dream It idles at about 800 and the mixtyure is correct

I had another issue which caused me weeks of stress The car juddered thru all gears and ran intermittentlhy in 4th gear I changed the Ignitions leads then the distributor cap then the distributor and checked the coil ohms No help I had new spark plugs but as a last resort I bought Champion spark plugs and the car ran regularly I havent done ohm tests on the old set but will in due course

My last problem is the fuel gauge I have it out and i corrected it to the ohm range I have continuity to both the gauge and the warning light , the fuel gauge works well thru the range but when I turn off the ignition the gauge stays at full If I disconnect the power to the gauge the needle drops to zero

The warning low fuel light works with an exterior battery close to it but the sender unit doesnt turn on the warning light A bit stuck My email has changed to Regards

Mike that sounds like you have a battery supply to the gauge rather than an ignition switched supply. Have the electrics been apart by any chance?

Hi This car is jinxed Yes there was a 12 volt separate supply to the fuel gauge Not me, I have rewored 3 jags Once I put the 10 volts to the gauge it worked propelry but the fuel warning light doesnt ground on

The juddering was due first to a bad spark plug It was better aftwer a new set but the ignitioni leads which i had changed 3 itmes was the next problem The numbjer 6 had unwound Not enough to dislocate but when tI looked again it had come adrift I screwed it back on it wasnt a clasp type Now that problem iis fixed The ammeter wasnt charging The excitiation lead was adrift I put this directly to the alternator from a switched fuse box connectin Now i have to work out the proper source of power to excite the alternator so that the warning light for ignition goes on and then out My wiring diagrams are for the car with a generator Mike

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Will this car ever be on he road The cyliner pressure in number 5 was 30 before oil and 35 after

After playing with the air hose it now seems top be a problem with the clearance wich is 0 when the valve is closed I must have royally messed up

Im getting in an expertpal who lentme the shims as Im going to watch him correct the shims It dosnt look as if the valve is not bent

Sounds like you need to do a leak down test, that will tell you where the problem is.

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Its leaking with an air hose at present as the valve is not closing due to no clearance I can do a leak down test when that is fixed I do have the tool Interstingly the vacuum test showed the needle oscillating wildy That apparentlty goes wiht one cylinder leaaking