That’s good but I can use the cigar lighter to charge my phone which has a battery that seems to last about two hours+
Will see if the two rogue wires hanging under the dash are important They are dead but I don’t know what they connected to
More time under the dash
Mike
One side of the ASC is connected directly to the ignition circuit. To activate it, the other side needs to be grounded either through the Otter switch or through an owner-installed switch. You may find that your mystery wire is routed to the ground side if the ASC and the other wire goes to a grounding point.
The switch is grounded to the Otter The rogue wires are green brown an green so detective work later today I’m getting ready to gyp rock the garage celing before getting an epoxy floor Don’t know where the coffee machine and the pull out bed will go B y thesway the definition of irony is getting pregnant on a pull out bed Mike
It started and it ran quite sweetly If only Id known that the aux Carb wasn’t wiresd in
I have managed to disengage fuel an temp and flashers and one fog light More time in and under the dash but not today
Mike Thanks to all for all the help
The lighted switch is just a warning lamp so one knows when the ASC is under manual control. Here’s mine.
John that’s neat I put two LEDs , very small and green in between the speedo and the rev counter Thy are attached to the indicator wire Its is so easy to see the indacotrs working now The green ones on the dash are hard to see at the best of times and in sunlight impossible
UI may well look for a lighted switch At present I’m in 6th heaven hearing the car actually purring
Mike
You probably saw the latest posts The car started and ran well after I got the Aux Carb working That may have been a problem for months /??
Mike
99%.
They will never run ok unless ASC and carbs are tuned and working properly
It seems we never saw the woods from the trees
Its possible your head is not perfect, but just drive it for a while
Continuing the discussion from MK11 wont start:
Hi Paul Thought I would update the forum
My Mk11 is now starting like a dream It idles at about 800 and the mixtyure is correct
I had another issue which caused me weeks of stress The car juddered thru all gears and ran intermittentlhy in 4th gear I changed the Ignitions leads then the distributor cap then the distributor and checked the coil ohms No help I had new spark plugs but as a last resort I bought Champion spark plugs and the car ran regularly I havent done ohm tests on the old set but will in due course
My last problem is the fuel gauge I have it out and i corrected it to the ohm range I have continuity to both the gauge and the warning light , the fuel gauge works well thru the range but when I turn off the ignition the gauge stays at full If I disconnect the power to the gauge the needle drops to zero
The warning low fuel light works with an exterior battery close to it but the sender unit doesnt turn on the warning light A bit stuck My email has changed to drmike_smith1@outlook.com Regards
Mike
Mike that sounds like you have a battery supply to the gauge rather than an ignition switched supply. Have the electrics been apart by any chance?
Hi This car is jinxed Yes there was a 12 volt separate supply to the fuel gauge Not me, I have rewored 3 jags Once I put the 10 volts to the gauge it worked propelry but the fuel warning light doesnt ground on
The juddering was due first to a bad spark plug It was better aftwer a new set but the ignitioni leads which i had changed 3 itmes was the next problem The numbjer 6 had unwound Not enough to dislocate but when tI looked again it had come adrift I screwed it back on it wasnt a clasp type Now that problem iis fixed The ammeter wasnt charging The excitiation lead was adrift I put this directly to the alternator from a switched fuse box connectin Now i have to work out the proper source of power to excite the alternator so that the warning light for ignition goes on and then out My wiring diagrams are for the car with a generator Mike
Will this car ever be on he road The cyliner pressure in number 5 was 30 before oil and 35 after
After playing with the air hose it now seems top be a problem with the clearance wich is 0 when the valve is closed I must have royally messed up
Im getting in an expertpal who lentme the shims as Im going to watch him correct the shims It dosnt look as if the valve is not bent
Mike
Sounds like you need to do a leak down test, that will tell you where the problem is.
Its leaking with an air hose at present as the valve is not closing due to no clearance I can do a leak down test when that is fixed I do have the tool Interstingly the vacuum test showed the needle oscillating wildy That apparentlty goes wiht one cylinder leaaking
Mike
Finally had the head off Number 4 has low cokpression 30 , 35 with oil There was a small blob of metal on the number 5 valve I had the help of a true expert. We had all the valves out number 4 and 5 were replaced and meticulous lapping in done Varsol waas used to see if there was leaking There was a very small leak in 4 after several removals and lapping I decided to accept that for financial reasons as it will seat in with use I have a feeing this will fix the problems Mike
Robin the more I use the site the more I see your name
I thought I would post this as it might help other engine re-builders
I have had a torrid time with my Mk 11. 2 yeas ago it wouldn’t start a big factor was the fact that the wire to the aux carb had come adrift under the dash I had a cut off switch there Once corrected that the lady obliged.
This year I took the engine out and had it rebored to plus 40 Rebuilt it with new pistons Et Cetera I redid the head Some new valves put in Gasoline tight. Put it all together Had every thing correctly put together, Compression Spark Timing Fuel. Did this repetitively No mistakes All 100 percent correctly done I used a sparks plug tester on all 6 plugs Good spark Therein lies the blunder ,I finally took the plugs out one by one and tested each plug out of the engine Two were bad the others were resister plugs One could use a multimeter but seeing the spark is more reassuring I put in new non resister plugs and she fired first time .
So my new resolution is not to use a spark plug tester, they dont prove that the plug is good
