Motive Power Bleeder

For my '67 S1,
Has anyone ever ordered a Motive Power Bleeder…with an adapter
that fits the resevoirs. This is for the ‘‘normal’’ square shaped
plastic resevoirs with aluminum round caps. I originally ordered
and received the MVP-0100 european…whose adapter didn’t fit the
resevoir threads. Upon talking to their support I was advised that
the Girling 1.75 ID Adapter, part number 1123, was the correct
part…and according to my calipers, this appeared to be the right
size BUT this arrived and this doesn’t fit as well. As anyone ever
ordered a Motive Power Bleeder ADAPTER that fits a 67 series 1
OTS ? I think somewhere I read that someone had used one sized for volkswagons that worked.
If so, Please share what the part number is. Thanks–

Wellsir, I have those bottles and I have a VW - I will try the VW cap on the Jaguar bottles for size.

Close but no, at least for me the VW cap was too small.

I have a 69 S2 and the VW is an 84 with this cap:


When I made a cap for the E-Type I just tried lots of caps before I found something that fit well enough. The spice rack in your pantry is one place to look, hardware stores have replacement caps for chainsaws, weed-wackers and such. Good luck.

It might have been me. My kit is Motive Products 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder. It does go on but it’s very smug and wants to cross thread if you aren’t careful. Hold it very level and even and turn it backwards and push straight down until you feel it sink onto the first thread then carefully start turning forwards while maintaining downward pressure. I was about to give up on it when it finally went on. Once I got the method down I was able to get it on/off both bottles 3-4X without issue or damage to the bottles or cap.

edit, you might want to put a small smear of Vaseline on the threads to ease it on.

Ah… get a bicycle tire tube, 2 hose clamps. Cut tube in half, cut a few “calamari” slices off the tube, slide them up each leg of the tube, put the tube on the reservoir male ends, slide the calamari down & hose clamp tight.
Instant pressure bleeder. Works fine, did it 3 days ago. Even got the tube free at my local bike shop.
Not that impressive on the workshop wall…I will admit that!

My solution as well

I have a Motive Power Bleeder. Their concept is that you dump a bunch of brake fluid into the container and then push that through the hose, through the cap, into the fluid bottles, and finally into your lines. That displeased me on several levels. I use it a lot on my Porsche 944 track car, which gets very regular brake fluid changes. What I do is use a baster or syringe to suction most of the fluid out of the master cylinder fluid reservoir. Then I add new fluid to completely fill the reservoir (the one on the car, not the Motive bottle). Then I attach the Motive bleeder purely as a source of air pressure. About 10 psi. Once you make this change in approach, then as the last two posters have suggested, all you really need is a source of low pressure air. Yes, you have to keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottles but there is surprisingly little actual volume of fluid in a brake system. I typically only use 1/2 a can on my Porsche. The rest gets thrown out once it’s been exposed to the air.

Obligatory Jag content. I tried early on and could never find a cap from Motive that would fit my 67 Etype.

I did modify my Motive unit to add a male to female quick disconnect air fitting in the line leading to the cap. This makes it a lot easier to take the cap off as you add more fluid. There is certainly no reason that you couldn’t take a used cap for the Etype fluid bottle, drill out the center, and install a barbed nipple to match the hose provided with your Motive unit. And this way you can have caps for multiple cars with a short hose and a disconnect fitting on each one.

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Thanks for checking, Geoge

Me too, but I sprung for a new tube…

… and used zip-ties instead of hose clamps:

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This is what I did with my primitive but effective homemade pressure bleeder using a 1 gallon garden sprayer tank and left over pressure gauge.

Dave, would it be possible for you to post a pic of the set up…not sure what you mean by “calamari” slices.

A visual would be great. Thanks

I think he just means cut off a ring of tubing and use it as an elastic band. Same thing could be accomplished using an actual rubber band.

Both of which chew & taste like calamari to me.

I accomplished the same thing (some thickness for a better seal) by doubling back the open end of the tube (sort of like a cuff):

Yeah that’s another option I was considering…thx

Yeah, that’s what I meant. Cut rings from the tube to help seal the threads. Being a boater I have about 100 hose clamps. Do you think I could find 2 to fit the 2 m/c bottles? So 2 calamari rings held the one side on. Although I blew it off a few times with too much pressure. Got the job done - good pedal.

I sucked it through with my Mity-vac first, then pressure bled after a new m/c install. Might have gotten a few bubbles.

get fresh calamari and find some one who knows how to cook it and discover.

Love calamari…I’m there…fried of course

*** *** Mike Harris

480-813-0501 480-388-0288


The Motive 1109 cap fits. It’s the knurled aluminum version of the plastic 1100 cap that Erica_Moss used, but I’m told the threads are “flatter” due to the manufacturing technique. Yes, it’s 45mm, but it fits without a problem. It threads right on. It’s a bit bulky, being machined from billet, so I removed the adjacent reservoir cap so it doesn’t rub.
I’m going to bleed my 66 E type in the next day or two, having just rebuilt my master and slave cylinders. I’ll report back on how it works.

What about the clutch?

I didn’t find one for that. You could if you wish use a short section of inner tube between the Motive adapter and the clutch bottle. But I rather doubt it’ll do the job better than gravity will. I never do more than loosen the nipple, pump a couple times to push out what’s inside the master, and then let gravity do the work.