I’ll do that. Just start a new thread though. I got a bit of frowners for duplicating my whole thread last time.
That’s because you pasted the entire thread. I though you’d just copy/paste your first post 
I hate to say this, but given what you have found so far, I think you should take it all apart. If everything is OK you’re only out your labor and a set of gaskets. You would hate to put it together and have it blow up and get really expensive. The fact that they left grit in the pan and lots of other Incorrect details tells me they were clueless or didn’t give a sh!#.
I would also inspect the inside of the oil pump for clearances and wear.
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I knew it, I knew it, I knew it! you guys just want to see me pull this engine. Dag nabbet! 
Just kidding you know. I think about that too Bill. But, there is really good also with the engine and indeed the whole car. E.g., the paint job is nearly flawless. The engine was done definitely, it just looks like the bossman said to the gopher after the dispute with my aunt, just throw it together and get it out of here. I mean he had it for 3 years before the dispute so more often than not the engine is the first thing done One presumes that work was done right. None of this matters does it? I am very reluctant to pull the engine. For a number of reasons, not necessarily cold logic. On the damper pulley it is broken. What builder puts this back on an engine. Did the builder break it trying to get it off? I do not know, but I do know the paint line is on both. I.e., the damper and the pulley were painted together. Shi!# Where’s my bourbon?
Here’s the pics of the damper pulley.
I’ve highlighted the relevant section.
The True Definition of Tools
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, “Ouch…”
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you’ve been searching for the last 15 minutes.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn’t use anyway.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic’s own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, “the sunshine vitamin,” which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC’S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling “DAMMIT” at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.
EXPLETIVE: A balm, also referred to as mechanic’s lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.
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WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used once
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OMG where do you find this stuff! Actually I’ve always believed the trouble light is appropriately named: using it is sure to cause trouble and you’ll drop it often and ruin the new 75 watt bulb you used to replace the darkness cause by the 40 Watt bulb.
The secret?
Use NAPA “Rough Service” bulbs. Nowadays, Im sure they make an LED version, so that in addition to better light, you also avoid using the thing as a weenie roaster!
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I’ve found the CFL bulbs I saved when I converted to LEDs throughout the house work very well as replacement bulbs. They stand abuse much better than standard or rough service bulbs and you avoid the burns you get with a conventional bulb and metal shield.
LED bulbs are even better and now stupidly cheap.
You may wish to be careful with the CFL bulbs in an application that can easily result in a broken bulb. The CFL do have mercury in them, and they are considered to be a hazard if broken.
Tom
A small bit of care, and it’s not really a worry.
Back to the original issue of leaking sump.Loctite do some excellent products for sealing porous castings.The part…motorcycle crankcase,oil pan,etc, is dropped in a tank and vacum applied to draw sealant through the casting.I’ve used it on many Ducati crank cases which commonly leak from everywhere.Really effective and invisible.
Method used to inject “secret sauce” into prime rib, chicken, etc.
I like that thought Craig. I’ll look into it. Is this something I can do without welding? Or, do the welds and then seal the whole pan? I’m in Tampa, my son builds bikes but I don’t know that we’ve heard about this. I used to do Ducatis in the 60s. Nobody liked me back then.
I like that thought Craig. I’ll look into it. Is this something I can do without welding? Or, do the welds and then seal the whole pan?
No welding,that’s the beauty of it.
Craig, I’ve been looking at the Loctite product line. It is very extensive. Do you know what the product number is you’re familiar with? Is this one an 2-part or a single stage product?
Single,give them a call,I can’t remember exact number/name.
Yes, I plan to today. I did find a Youtube vid done by henkel that talks about using Locktite 290 specifically as an oil barrel sealant. Also talks about weeping to seal porous metal. Does not talk about using a vacuum to apply. I’ll post more when i talk to them.
I just got off the phone with Locktite. They do make a product that will wick into porous metal, or seal seams in metal parts pressed together - like a rim over a hub situation as in some 16-wheeler truck wheels. In my case they state it is often used to seal porous metal castings such as oil pans. The instructions are: 1) clean, clean, clean. 2) heat the part to drive off the residual oil from the porous part. 3) clean again. 4) When prepared, heat the part to quite warm to the touch, apply the Locktite 290 to the suspect area with a brush or pour it directly on and allow it to wick into the part. It is important to heat it so as to expand the metal and encourage the wicking. The Locktite 290 will only bond once it is “internal” to the metal. what is left on the surface can be wiped off. The Locktite 290 is green in color, but no color should be left once applied.
The Locktite 290 product sheet does list this as a use of this product, but it is not its primary function. 290 is a wicking threadlocker to be used to lock thread after the nuts have be torqued on the bolt. I.e., after the fact. Here’s their video:
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