Help - has anyone replaced the oil sump adaptor o-rings without removing the sandwich plate? Will it come ourt without dropping the plate?
Car- 1989 xjs 5.3 coupe
I have oil leaking out of the adaptor mounting bolt - believe it is due to a bad o-ring. I hear they get old and leak. I don’t want to attempt this if it will result a much bigger sandwich plate removal and replacement, at least not yet. I would rather live with the leak and plan out some front suspension work if I need to drop it (the front suspension to access the plate that is).
that’s it !!- how did you get it out? did you take out the oil filter assembly?
I have done it, no need to mess with the sandwich plate at all.
But you have to remove the exhaust downpipes.
Once you are there, better remove the whole filter assembly and change all the o-rings and hoses…
John, search for “C38802 and C 37873” in the archives. Also “Viton versus ordinary O rings”. Both should be helpful.
Just did it on my ‘88 5.3L- yes, best to remove the catalyst and oil filter assembly, then remove the 3 bolts that attach the adapter (which houses the cooler relief valve on bypass-cooled vehicles). The parts catalog was not clear to me, there are 2 of the larger o rings (EAC8101); one to the sandwich plate (for the adapter/cooler relief) and one under the seal carrier the bolts to the oil filter housing with 4 bolts.
I would not think that it possible to remove the 3 bolt piece and the 4 bolt piece without removing the filter adapter, as the 4 bolt piece has a pilot to the filter adapter. When you are that far into it, there are only 4 more bolts to remove the oil filter housing anyway.
Be sure to leave the 3 bolts to the sandwich plate loose when you reassemble the filter housing as it has to self align for the o ring to seal.
When I removed it, yes, downpipes out and didn’t touch the filter or filter housing, but the biggest pain was the pipe coming into the assembly on the left. I had to loosen the pipe so it would move just enough to wiggle the two piece thing out. It took a few tries wiggling it around and getting the bolts back in.
Oh, and expect about a quart of oil to come out when you take it off, so be ready for that…
Guys - this is great! Just what I need. I think I will take out the oil filter assembly, clean it up and replace the o-rings and hose connections- etc. I just had the down pipes out to get to the lower oil line banjo bolt that was leaking. Fixed the banjo bolt leak - but didn’t know about the oil sump assembly leak at that time (figures). Didn’t see the assembly leak until I got things back together - oil replaced and running - then - what the “____”. Like everyone else I have been chasing these leaks for a bit now. I think I got them all on the top - and I hope this is it for the underside (but I doubt it - )
Again - thanks!! And I will let you know how it goes.
I think I spent half of the total time dealing with those 4 flange nuts…if you have already had those apart, the rest is easy.
I got the cat out ok - and have the filter housing exposed. However, the oil cooler line is stuck. I mean really stuck - I hear this is common. Makes sense with it being right next to the Cat. I’d rather not cut it off. I got it soaking with liq wrench for a few days. I don’t want to use a touch - any other helpful hints?
How about a replacement cooler line - I see ebay has one from Canada and Australia (looks like the same manufacturer) . Delivery is anytime between Feb 5 abd Mar 24 (I don’t think Feb 5 is likely…). I think I can track down the nuts and Olive., or get my local “guy” to make a line for me That is probably the best route. Hate to replace the old line just to have it leak.
I’m trying to remember how I did this… vaguely recall just leaving the oil line attached and working around it, and I recall taking it off on the other end. I might have attempted both which is why I can’t recall. Do you have a flare nut wrench large enough to even attempt taking it off? I would use an open ended wrench.
If you remove the 4 bolts to the oil filter housing, then remove the housing itself, you do not have to remove the line- you will have to remove the “P” clip bolt (above the motor mount) and the oil pan bolt that secures a bracket to the line at the front to allow a little movement. Then remove the 3 bolts securing the piece to the sandwich plate.
All that said, the olive nut is probably rusted to the line rather than the housing. Soak with PB Blaster repeatedly for a few days, maybe use a heat gun on the nut to help wick it in, rap on it with a punch and hammer…if you are in the US, Menards has a 1-1/16 wrench for $10 that you can modify into a flare nut wrench; nice long handle that gives you leverage. First try to tighten to break the nut loosen, then loosen. Keep back and forth small amounts until it breaks loose.
From what you guys have said - I think I will see if I can take off the filer assembly and adaptor from the pipe. I agree that the pipe is probably stuck to the nut. If I can get the assembly off the nut - I have a chance at getting the nut off the pipe. I also have the chance of removing the entire pipe and having a new one made. Or - depending how many knuckles I scrap, may leave the adapter and pipe and replace the o-rings and gasket around it.
Thanks!! I will keep you posted…
I don’t think that you will have much luck changing the cooler pipe without dropping the subframe, my advice would be work around it if you cannot get the nut loose.
Glad I didn’t cut the pipe! I am not ready to drop the subframe.
Thanks!
If the joint has no signs of leaks leave it as is and don’t open a new can of worms…
You can separate the two halves in situ to change the O-rings.
On the oil filter housing assembly there is only one gasket on the back of it and easy to replace.
There is merit in if it ain’t broke don’t fix it - I can’t get back to it until the weekend - my first tack will be to try and do the job leaving the line is place.
Thanks again!
That ain’t how it goes. It goes “If it ain’t broke, fix it until it is.”
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I hadn’t heard that before…but very true!! been there - done that