Your knees won’t hit them unless you have particularly long femurs and you ankle is too close to your knee. They’re located well back in the footwell. Paul
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Hey…that’s a lot of great stuff there.
Lucky guy. Difficult to get misc parts such as these alone.
Side markers, lenses, chrome, center console covers, etc. Wrap those guys up.
Dash wood etc. That’s great to have.
You were given extra front and rear windscreen glass too? Holy smokes. Priceless imho.
Those are of course parcel shelves. Smaller at driver’s side. As partical board, they deteriorate, especially due to a leaking windscreen.
I’m restoring mine too. found a roll of black vinyl laying around, and will replace felt with it. Not a fan of felt really.
Within first image above at the top right corner, that fiberboard felt piece looks like the cover beneath steering column.
Great to have an oem steering wheel. Pity the cracked cover, but you may be able to find eventually online.
Are you missing the original steering wheel and horn push in car?
Or sell it, if it’s indeed an extra, and buy a moto lita e type style one.
Only thing I’d toss is that wood steering wheel. It’s crap.
But keep the center horn push with jaguar unsignia. If you get another aftermarket they always come with generic or triumph insignias on horn push.
I could really use that and that plastic gear shift indicator if you want to let them go…mine’s cracked…and i hope to get a wooden steering wheel eventually.
Don’t know what your motor looks like, but that little L shaped mechanical hooded part at bottom center of last parts photo is the egr valve.
You don’t need it. In fact remove all emissions crap.
Also, at rear of intake manifold, above, is that aluminum cover it attaches to.
Earlier models, like e types, it was a closed turtle shell.
Later have tube coming out to attach to egr.
Don’t know what is connected to yours now, but it must be plugged.
It is a free dowl tube that can be easily punched in, and out…
Goto home depot or similar, get 3/4 or whatever aluminum press fit cap with fingers on the inside which simply presses in.
Scuff it up, insert and seal with jb weld, and spray entire piece black with high temp paint.
An elegant and easy solution.
Do a search here as well on removing secondary throttle butterflies too.
I like elegant and proper solutions.
Didn’t care for holding open method…
While rebuilding carbs, i removed both butterflies and shaft.
Found perfect little steel dowl piece at a specialty hardware store (elliots or ace) and plugged the carb body holes with them using jb weld.
But i digress…
Funny the tire…
Message me if you wanna let go of the litlle plastic shift indicator piece, if it isn’t cracked and in good shape.
Kind regards
First photo, top left - the one with the curved tunnel - must not fit? I can photograph mine if you need. Paul
Very nice model in very cool color!
I think I’m well proportioned; other than being a bit squishy around the middle. 
Getting old sucks! anyway, Isn’t there anything to cover up all of the wiring bits too? or does the shelf just hang out there. If someone could take a picture for me so I know what it’s supposed to look like that would be great.
I have a book called “Original Jaguar XJ” The restorers guide to series I, II, and III Saloons and Coupe’s
Oddly enough, it doesn’t have a picture of under the dash (binnacle) photos. Speaking of under the dash, there’s two knobs, what is their function?
I too need the gear shift selector. of the 4 XJ6’s the gear selector plate (the plastic bit) are all either broken, disintegrated, or missing completely. That cover is like the holy grail to me. Too bad I can’t clone it.
What I did do for the Series II purchase a new gear select for the series III (it has the cruise control at the base) wrapped up in masking tape marked off the bit I want to cut, and ran it through the ban saw, and polished / sanded the edges with a dremel tool.
Is it perfect? nope.
Is it better than a broken one? yes.
Has anybody other than me noticed? Nope.
I’ll take a look at the EGR valve
On the Series II I’ve taken all of that off and plugged the heads with 1/8 brass plugs, and freeze / welsh plug for the EGR.
I’ve wanted to remove the secondary throttle shaft but wasn’t willing to remove the intake to get to it. There’s a Shit ton of fasteners and I didn’t have a gasket on hand. I’m planning on doing this with the Series II It’s got a blown head gasket, I’m going to swap out an '86 XK6 engine while I rebuild the '74 XK6
FYI
If you need to seal a interference fit part, finger nail polish works great. plus it comes in all sorts of pretty colors 
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Thank you! I wasn’t a fan at first, but it’s growing on me.
It’s all good information, and I’ll tuck it away.
Thanx
Mark
Yikes, that trans shifter job sounds cut throat.
Yes, I’ve been learning that about those plastic shift indicators!
Well your post must have been destiny as i searched and went over and found one at XKsUnlimited for $20! Original S1 …
I must admit, I’m a purist. Especially when the car is so well preserved, you know?
Anything but original type would have bugged me. I replaced with a later 73 and s2 version recently from my other car and it honestly bugged me.
Been considering elec fan upgrade, alternator, even replacing those original heavy old horns i must de-gunk and repaint.
Nah. All this research and I’ve decided to keep it original…for now.
I had a mk2, mk7, 3.8s, all without troubles running as original.
Altering the car’s character and appeal with different sounding horns etc… Would take away from entire feel and experience of car
I thought i learned my lesson already. We’ll see.
Take care
PS oh, wanted to forward you but away from computer, if you need it, i did just come across a single horn push surround for a S1 xj6 for $20 on ebay listed by itself should you wish to replace that cracked one. Rare find I’d think.
A picture wpuld be great, thank you
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.
The trip odometer knob is under dash–the one towards the front. On my two S1s (71 and 73) there were no other knobs. On my S3, there was a rheostat that dimmed the instrument lights (if they aren’t dim enough already) but that was fitted to the lower cover itself (the bit you seem to be missing), and not fixed under the dash.
IMO you can get 99% of the performance increase resulting from removing the secondary butterflies by just blocking them open–very easy to do using the existing springs IIRC.
I’ve got a couple of these XK engines, I’ll do it for each one. On the series II I’m installing a 4spd gearbox, and am kicking around welding up a 3 carb manifold; it will have to be Stromberg’s because that’s what I have and what I can afford.