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Which fuse, Col - still #13? Which is supposed to be interior lights etc for RHD, both before and after 83 - and AC relays and clutch on LHD. And rated at 15A for them all. The anti run-on fuse is #15 and only for LHDs before 83; after that the anti run-on was not fitted - it was carb specific.
Resistance measurements are only valid with wires disconnected. Any electric circuit is connected to ground one way or another - measured at either fuse terminal (fuse removed) you read some resistance, meaningless unless the other wire ends are clinically disconnected from groundâŚ
Simplified; if a light bulb is connected to the fuse terminal, your read the resistance in that bulb - if a switch is in series with that bulb and the switch is âoffâ, and or the bulb is removed, you read infinite. With several users in parallel the same applies, but is more complicated to isolate all from ground. If the other fuse terminal, power âinâ, is powered from the ign key - the key, even when âoffâ is groundedâŚ
That does mean that there is no problem - only that the resistance measured must be taken with a pinch of salt at this stageâŚ
Right hand drive fuel injected. 1983 build fuse block under dashboard. Everything I could disconnect has been disconnected. Bulbs and holders removed. Door switches removed. But connected the interior lights are all working as they should. Just a short on the purple wire from the left hand fuse marked 1. Permanent power but radio is powered only when ignition is on or accessories.
Fuse blows instantly it is put in. Test tone connected to the top of said fuse reading of 4 odd ohms I removed any thing I could find and the tone never wavers. Moving wires and relay type canisters makes no difference .
Iâm stumped but I am not putting another screw back in until the auto electrician se it.
Can not see the theory to running positive and earth to every door switch and light. Most pommy cars I have worked on have a positive to the light and is switched by earthing in the pin door switches.
My jaguar puddles worked that way. Note, The wires at the door switches are black. Black denotes ground here as well
Clue, That black circuit is grounded elsewhere. Some where between the lamp/s and a switch, one or more of the four.
Just to clarify the fuse that keeps blowing is marked 10 A interior & map lights #13 , #14 3A LH side lights ,#15 3A RH side lights , #16 20A Front fog lights ,#17 speed control 3A
Is your power antenna working? Is the power antenna fuse blown? (#3 in my schematics)
Hereâs why I askâŚ
On some build configurations a blown antenna fuse will cause a problem with the puddle light circuit. I wonât go into the weeds with all the gory details as Iâm not at all sure this relates to your problem. A Jaguar TSB addressed the issue; the fix was adding a diode to the interior light circuit.
Does the radio have a power feed which raises and lowers the antenna? As fuse 13 is the fuse that is blowing and it powers the radio the antenna is not working now. There is no fuse marked radio and fuse 13 is the only one blown.
Nominally, the radio fuse is in-line, 2A. The antenna drive is, according to the fuse chart, separately powered through #13 fuse - which should be 15A To elaborate; the radio should have a an âant outâ connection that, with radio âonâ, operates a relay(!) to ant âupâ position. The relay must have permanent(!) antenna âdriveâ power, in your case from #13 fuse - which should have power irrespective of ign key position. Ie; it is not(!) the radio that powers the antenna - just triggers the relay. When the radio is turned âoffâ, âant outâ is unpowered and the relay reverts to the ant âdownâ positionâŚ
Anything that contradicts this�
Unfortunately; the your aux fuse chart listing does not coincide with any of my fuse charts - which is highly confusing. Is the âradioâ and âaerialâ and âcigar lighterâ specifically mentioned on the fuse box? On âsomeâ later models they were all fused by inline fuses; âradioâ behind the radio, âaerialâ in the boot and âcigarâ behind the right hand cheek panel.
The most confusing is that a 4 ohm resistance will not blow a 10A fuse - somehow we seem to be barking up a wrong tree on this. Questions; you mention âleft hand fuse marked 1â - what do you mean? Purples are indeed associated with door locks and delay relay - but is not related, in my diagrams, with #1 fuse? You say âfuse blows instantly it is put inâ which fuse - and in what configuration, what is connected, when the fuse blowsâŚ? And, incidentally, Jaguar is a pommy car; puddles etc are indeed positive powered, and are grounded by the pin door switchesâŚ
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Have you verified that the radio actually works when separately powered?
Yes there is a seperate inline fuse to the radio, my mistake fuse 1 should be fuse 13 nothing contradictory to your statement. Fuse 13 âŚ.not sure now⌠blows as soon as it is inserted. âŚ. Iâll donate another fuse to Lucas god tomorrowâŚ.Iâm thinking the ignition was â onâ as you said 4 ohms wonât be seen as a short just load. Maybe the antenna relay or circuit is the short. I was working correctly. Although I did notice the aerial was 1/2â up when this started but is now right down. Just to make things clearer the right hand fuse box has #1 10a antirun on valve#215a hazard warning#350a air conditioning.or heater motors via relays #4 15a panel,reverse lamps,low coolant sensor & warning light #535a heated backlight #6 15a air con rely & clutch #7 wipers #8 15a panel / cigar & glovebox illum.#9. 10a fog rear guard #10 DI flashers #11 35a horn relay windings, auto trans kick down solenoid, aux rad fan relay WDG, screen washers,stop lamps #12 2a speed control.
I wish we could post photos.
Col
Some early cars had a manually operated antenna switch on the console. I think this disappeared by 1981 or so.
Iâd unplug the antenna relay just to see if anything changes. Itâll only take a couple minutes. Take notes where the wires go on the relay as theyâre individually attached.
So today I put a new fuse in #13 ignition off nothing happens ignition on nothing this was with the purple wire removed from antenna relay. Put the wire back on the relay and antenna did itâs thing trying to lower the antenna which of course was already down. I think I am going to leave it as is ie all lights (9) of them bulbs removed, radio removed, all covers removed and park it until I can get it to the auto electrician next week. After my second stroke I am so fatigued am unable to use my right arm/ hand that just getting to the relay has taken me an hour. Plus I donât think I am able to think analytically any more. I really appreciate all the help but things are just going around in my head and I am getting nowhere. Iâll get back with the results after the car sees the auto doctor.
Col
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I âthinkâ the auto electrician would prefer the system in âoriginalâ state, Col - though in the black art of car electrics; its wizardsâ minds are difficult to read. The radio should be connected, but removing covers is fair enoughâŚ
Sorry to hear about your strokes - it sure complicates any DIY. You have done well, but car electrics sometimes defeats even the smartest of us!
To an auto electrician it seems to be simple; long time ago, I spent two days on my Gordini searching for an electric fault that interfered with parking and direction indicators. I literally tore out all relevant wires connections, with no progress. Drove down to the electrician; he looked briefly at the symptoms, got a screwdriver and changed the double filament front left bulb. An internal short in the bulb - itâs so simple when you know your profession. He didnât even charge meâŚ
As an aside; ohming powered circuits wonât work - that requires a test lampâŚ
But, the word that the antennae motor keeps on trying to lower the already down mast is curious.
decades ago, I had a strile that disabled my right arm. Weird beyond belief. I got to the hospital. Arm returned to function on the way! I drove myslef. left arm worked! A few tests were normal. Trns ischemic or something like that. A neuro put me on amed for a time. mnmotored and no return. removed the med. No efffects and not again.
It seems to me that the antenna was returning to itâs natural state, ie down , as the radio was in the box in the boot therefore not sending a signal to go up or down.
Glad to hear you had no lasting effects from your episode, I wish I could say the same!
Back again canât help myself, I had all lights working, all nine of them, working with switches and doors. Plugged the radio in and blew the fuse #13. When that fuse blows I lost rear puddle lights and map reading light, the one in the middle of the dashboard roll. Replaced the fuse 10 amp, and new radio next week. Of course all the âspareâ radios are different plugs. Supplied and fitted by trusted installer.
Let you know what happens.
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Do you mean connecting the in-line fused wire to the radio, Col - or what? Was the radio âant outâ, and loudspeaker wires connected - and was the antenna up or down at the time? The point is that the radio âonâ operates the relay to antenna âupâ - and power is applied to the motor. That #13 fuse then blows means a short, or overload, at the relay or the motor.
Ie, the inline fuse powers the radio and should blow if the radio itself is shorting. What exactly #13 fuse actually protects is not exactly clear, but since it blows when the radio is plugged in, and the inline radio fuse holds; it is âreasonableâ to assume that the problem is in the antenna power lines?
Try disconnecting the âant outâ wire before connecting the radio. I call it the âant outâ because it is a common marking; on your radio it may have another name - it is just a connection which is powered with the radio âonâ, and unpowered with the radio off. This test will clarify some aspects of the problem. I see no reason to change the radio at this stage - it can be done later if you are dissatisfied with the radioâŚ
It is perfectly possible that #13 protects the rear puddles and the map light - and the other lights are protected by a different fuse. However, since #13 holds before the radio is plugged in - the lights are not the cause of the #13 blowingâŚ
Logic can only get you somewhere if facts are known - and your actual wiring is short of thatâŚ
I believed the inline fuse under the ski ramp was the permanent power for the memory. As the radio has been replaced at some stage it has a multiple pine plug with no markings. A bit of detective work I should be able to find the antenna out wire and disconnect it, and see if the fuse blows, thus proving the radio or antenna circuit. Tomorrow is another dayâŚ.
