Then there’s a misunderstanding somewhere.
Anyhow, we’re all looking forward to see how it goes.
Cheers … Ole
I have removed the IRS on 2 other occasions on my 67 to do brake work, but not to replace the rear u-joint on it. To be clear, I did not remove the IRS or the drive shaft on the 69 to do the front u-joint. Quite frankly, I did it before I read it was standard practice to drop the IRS, and so it never occurred to me that I would drop it. Please understand, I am not telling anyone how they should do it. I am just saying how I did it. If it is very tight, maybe it would be easier to drop the IRS. If the brakes need done, it would be a good time to do it all. I have never removed the drive shaft on an E-Type.
Tom
Had the IRS out three years ago to do the brakes and checked the u-joints at that time . They were fine but in hindsight we should have replaced them then. The mechanic isn’t too concerned about the rear u-joint but more so with the front. We know it’s accessible from above but really don’t want disturb the interior if possible.
When you did your u-joints did you use the hammer and socket method, a tool specifically for u-joints or a ball joint puller?
Don
Hi Don,
I suppose thast ifyou are lucky enough to have one of those Alive In Wonderland UJ’s are the books always talk about that comes apart just by tapping it thefront joint can be changed in place but I cannot recall ever running into one of those, wish you luck!
I’ve had my rear end in and out several times. It’s a one man job, with a hydraulic jack. Follow the manual PRECISELY for easy bolting to the frame.
LLoyd
A step backward, after making a wrong turn, is a step in the right direction.
Kurt Vonnegut
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Not saying it cannot be done—it apparently has—but I darn sure never encountered one!
I find it hard enough to do with it all laying right there in front of me, about a third of the time one of the roller bearings slips out of position during the reassembly and gets wedged into the cap. I hate it when this happens, so I suspect that trying to do it in-situ would be nearly impossible for a klutz like me.
Cheers,
LLynn
Don,
You’ve certainly got me very confused here! In your original post you were very explicit that your mechanic believes he can remove the drive shaft from the car without dropping the IRS Now you are saying something very different. I’d appreciate it (as would, not doubt, readers of the archives) if you clarify before another myth is added to the list of impossible things you can do on an E-Type if you utter the correct incantations before you open your tool box 
-David
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THAT, my fine-feathered Brit cousin, is a needed step, no matter the job…
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I find that a chorus of Rule Brittania followed by God Save the Queen is very helpful before working on my Etype. Makes her feel at home. 
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Just to clarify, he thinks he can remove the driveshaft. Failing that his plan is to replace the u-joints in situ. He apparently has done it before as others on the forum have done so also.
Yes. The best joke in the entire manual.
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A “yoke joke” 
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Define ‘it’.
Remove the front UJ? Agreed. Remove propshaft on a six, past an in-situ standard gearbox? No.
Personally, as I am no longer a teenager, I could never pound on a vital ball race I was not going to replace, which means unbolting the front flange to protect the output bearing.
Trying to pound/support/reposition (repeat ad nausiem) said floppy detached yoke and UJ is less productive or pleasant than working on a bench (or even the floor) with a vice or press or clamp. Supporting it with wood in the tunnel would take the edge off the hammer blows and have me muttering to myself for going against my experience and better instincts. Do it once do it right and if your man claims the impossible he has to prove ‘it’. Which is where we came in.
Took the car in today to have the drive shaft u-joints replaced. Since only the rear u-joint was clearly defective, I decided to replace only the rear.
Having owned the car for 15 years, I really don’t know how much longer I will own it. So with that in mind I decided it wasn’t worth the cost and hassle to replace both. If the front does becomes defective , of course I’ll have it replaced. How it will be repaired will be determined then but hopefully by the next owner.
Replacement of the rear u-joint today went very well and only took about 1.5 hours. Without some minor issues it could probably have been done in an hour or less.
Thanks to all on the forum for your thoughts , suggestions and opinions. All were very helpful and constructive!
Don
I removed the DS on my series 3 w/o dropping IRS. The secret was pulling the speedo cable out of the bracket in the back of the tunnel and flattening it with a hammer. That allowed me to pull the slip and slide out and pull the ss out in 2 sections.
Charles,
Very intriguing. I may have to get my drive shaft balanced again and is very interested in your method.
Was it a manual or auto box ?
I assume you removed the gearbox mount, also referred to as the rear engine mount ?
In which direction did you push the gearbox to get clearance ?
Do you have any pictures ?
Thanks … Ole
I did not loosen the gearbox. Pulled it out from the rear.
About a month ago I requested your views on replacing the prop shaft U- joints and specifically the possibility of replacing them without removing the prop shaft.
As you may recall , my technician was quite confident that the u-joints could be replaced in situ.
When I took the car in to have the job done he checked both the front and back joints and determined that the back u-joint was definitely the culprit while the front seemed tight . We therefore opted to only do the rear which was accomplished without removing the prop shaft .
Fast forward about one month and after two drives a loud clunking sound developed and could be heard when starting off and braking etc. Took the car back to the garage today .
At first it seemed unlikely that the front joint could be replaced in situ but on closer inspection it was thought possible.
First , the exhaust system was removed . Secondly the heat shield above the muffler was removed. Thirdly , the plate below the tail of the transmission which carries the rear transmission support and the support itself were removed. However before the plate was removed a support stand was placed under the transmission. So, with the plate and the rear transmission support removed sufficient access was gained to the front u-joint in order to remove it.
Obviously it’s not an easy task and could not be accomplished without a hoist or lift.Total time to remove and replace the front u-joint about 3-4 hours. Many have been skeptical that the front and rear u-joints could be replaced in situ but this clearly shows it can be done. I’ll be happy to provide photos to anyone interested.
Don
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