I wish I had of thought of that two weeks ago when I put it back together 
I fabricated this cap arrangement. The first layer is bubble Mylar from a bog box store. The second layer is Dyna liner. If bonded together when flat, the sandwich construction stays “springy” and expands out to the edges of the opening. The Mylar bubble material doesn’t get oil soaked. The metal cover is coated with reflective ceramic Jet Hot type material, and I made a heat block gizmo for inside the top hat. Tape seals the bottom edge. Inside of the tunnel is covered with DEI.
Now…lets see how you fit the radio console.
It obviously had to be shortened and contoured for the evaporator. The forward edge attaches to the two vertical metal brackets that I had to fabricate. The transfer hose for the left side condensate drain is visible…both drains are plumbed to exit on the right side to avoid water dripping on the exhaust. Installation and removal of the console is easier than the original. Getting it to fit with the AC was a “challenge”.
Your shift lever boot and the plate it is mounted on appear to be non standard. Do you have a description of what you have done there?
Both sides can be seen in the photos above. The black plate is thick plastic that snaps into the cover if shaped correctly. It has reflective aluminum tape on the bottom side in its final iteration. I enlarged the hole as well. A pyramid shaped bellows would be best.
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Sounds like elder abuse to me… 
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My thoughts exactly!
You’re going to need to turn on the heater! 
Damn spell check!
20
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Question for someone perhaps Eric. I’m looking at the heater section of Bob Skelly’s schematic. It shows a fused wire going to terminal 87 of the relay coming from the auxiliary fuse box behind the glove box as well as having the green wire that goes to the heater motor switch eventually ending up on fuse 6 on the original fuse box. So, 2 fuses on that circuit? I planning on powering the relays from an auxiliary fuse box located near the heater box.
On the windshield wiper schematic it shows a green wire coming from terminal 85 of the 4 terminal relays but that green wire doesn’t go anywhere. I don’t know how to interpret that.
Thanks for help.
Rich
Hoping for some advice on my previous post.
It appears that Bob sends power to the solenoid side of the heater relay from the existing fuse behind the foldout panel, and the high amperage motor feed comes to the relay from the new fuse panel behind the glove box. That’s consistent with unloading most of the old Lucas fuses/panels. I did something similar, but departed from Bob’s schematic when it came to the implementation details. I can mail you a copy of my wiring diagram if you PM me your address. (My diagram is not digitized).
I’m not clear what’s going on with the hanging green wire on the W/S wiper motor. I left that circuit alone (original Jaguar wiring). Since I don’t don’t see any new fuses for the wipers depicted in the drawing, I suspect Bob left it alone as well, abd his diagram is just a “short hand” depiction…
What does the dash switch on the far right control? It’s not labeled and don’t see anything changing when I turn it on?
Thanks,
Rich
I believe in the OTS cars it is not wired. Many wire it for use as a manual fan switch or fuel pump power. I believe it’s there in the FHC cars as a rear window defroster (I could be wrong on that last part though).
RobY
That is correct, I wired mine to an aftermarket radio power antenna so I can listen to CD’s without the antenna being up.
Thanks for the info. Mine has some wires attached. I’ll test them maybe they’re power only without anything attached to the output.
For those of you who mounted an auxiliary fuse panel behind the glove box how did you modify the glove box so that you could get to the fuse panel if necessary?
Thanks,
Rich
I cut the back out such that there is a “lip” remaining around the perimeter. Then fabricated a faux rear panel and flocked it to match. It blends in just fine.
Eric - thank you. So I’m troubleshooting why low speed on the heater fan doesn’t work. I have the heater box out for other reasons and the resister in the motor test fine so I go to the switch. I notice that it’s missing a lead. I look over and I see the missing lead on the extra switch to the right. Huh? I test the fan switch and sure enough the low speed position doesn’t work. I guess the PO didn’t want to replace the fan switch and moved that circuit over to the extra switch. New fan switch on the way - lol.
Rich