Otto …
Well I finally found the website that I used when I rebuilt my pump. I know it’s in French but you can use google to translate the document. Hope it helps 
look at the top of the translate page and you can use Finnish or Swedish … very cool !
Dennis, thanks for your link to the French website!
I checked the description on the website. I don’t see what I have done differently. Anyway, I will do everything again. 
turn the idle speed air bypass screw on the iscv using a 7\32 inch Allen wrench till the rpm is 550 to 600. Which way do you turn the bypass screw , clockwise or anti clockwise . i am needing to do this to mine on the weekend .
MarkON, I needed to turn the bypass screw clockwise to get around 600 RPM. When I hooked up the iscv connector and started the engine again the RPM was 700.
Thanks for the quick reply , i’m enjoying your posts , i’m doing mine as a rolling resto too . Good luck .
Good luck with the idle adjustment, MarkON. It should be simple once the butterfly gap and the TPS are set correctly.
Otto …
I don’t know what it is with that power steering pump but it seems that for one reason or another a lot of us have had to do it twice. When Bryan N (who never gets anything wrong) put in one of the parts backwards and the pump didn’t work I thought poor guy. Then (because I didn’t ensure it was fully seated) the big retaining ring blew off on mine and I said poor me!
Hopefully when you open up the pump it will be obvious what is wrong. Double check that the stator vanes are all free to move and check if they go in a particular way (I can’t recall if one end of the vane is different from the other)
Dennis, I have the pump on my table now. I wonder what is the function of the vanes? 
Otto …
The vanes are what propel the fluid thru the pump.
As the shaft turns the grey vane assembly each vane slides in and out so as to always rub against the pump wall. Since the assembly is offset in the pump housing this allows the vanes to pick up the fluid at the suction port and “pump” it out the discharge port.
I can’t recall if one end of the vanes is tapered but if it is that’s the end that should face away from the shaft and rub against the pump housing.
Thanks for explaning the function of the vanes, Dennis.
I have compared the pictures on the French site with my pump and I can’t see a difference. As I have said earlier, I had to cut the small C clip that holds the rotor to the shaft. I replaced the clip with a standard retaining clip. However, that should not have any impact on the operation of the pump.
If I understand the function of the pump correctly or at least partially, I have the impression that the only things that should move in the pump are the shaft and the rotor which is attached to the shaft. Other parts function more or less as spacers.
Otto …
You are correct. The only moving parts in the pump are the impeller which hold the vanes and the shaft that is attached to the impeller and turns it.
Also It’s very important that each vane is free to move back and forth in their slots, so check that. Otherwise that’s it.
Dennis, the vanes can easily slide out (not fully out) from their slots.
I don’t really understand what could be wrong with the pump. Anyway, I will put everything back again and then test once more. Let us see what will be the outcome.
First I will measure that the driving gear really will reach the slots of its counterpart, namely the auxiliary shaft driving dog.
Otto …
Another old trick is to pack the area with the impeller and vanes with vasoline before reassembly. This helps to prevent the pump from cavitating as it tries to suck in the fluid on the very first start after a rebuild. The power steering fluid will break down the vasoline after a little bit so there won’t be any worries about contamination.
That is an interesting advice, Dennis. So, maybe I brush the impeller and vanes with marine grease before I reassemble the pump.
The other thing that may have a impact is the circlip that you have used to replace the wires clip, is it a comparable cross section? If its smaller could it be allowing leakage (too much end float?)
Good morning fellow enthusiasts. It is around 10 am here. I just came from a short test drive. 
I reassembled the pump this morning. I got inspiration from Robin and made a c clip from a spring for the shaft. I still think that should not have an impact on the operation of the pump but nevertheless the power steering worked when I had installed the pump back to the car. Tomorrow, I will post a picture of the ring clip I used during the first trial and the new c clip I made.
I want to thank everyone, especially Dennis and Robin, for your contribution to overcoming this problem!
Great to hear that the problem has been solved, it will be interesting to see if it was just leakage or just more bleeding required.
Robin, what do you actually mean by leakage? Do you relate to some kind of leakage inside the pump?
Yes I was postulating that the end plate was not being held in close proximity to the rotor/vanes.
Ok, Robin. So, if there is a very small gap between the end plate and the rotor, it may hinder the proper operation of the pump.
The top of the shaft fits into a slot inside the end plate, and yes, a standard retaining clip does not fit into the slot. Of course, the retaining clip is very thin, but maybe the gap it creates has an impact on the operation.