All - my 67 Series 1 FHC came with a spin-on when I purchased the car. I do not know the manufacturer however I’ve observed in the last few years an oddity when removing the oil filter at spring oil change time.
Once I commence spinning the filter off with a wrench (after a warm up drive) I can see that the mating surface that the main rubber gasket on the filter mates to actually spins too . . . As removal continues, the oil filter does come off but it is somewhat concerning watching the mating flange/surface spin (at least for a few turns or more) in tandem . . . Note that there are no ‘abnormal’ leaks around the oil filter assembly at any time. The picture here shows the mating surface appearing to be retained by what I’ll call a lock nut of sorts. (Haven’t got a big enough deep well to get over the spindle so not sure the size) Offhand I’d assume this needs to be snugged . . .
The two part question is:
Has any one else experienced this if you have a similar spin-on configuration?
Do I care in the absence of excessive oil leaking in the immediate area?
Comments and suggestions appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Dave Reva
Grand Junction Michigan
I do think you need to sort out why it spins. I suspect it has an o-ring on its other side.
You do not want it to suddenly start losing oil while you are driving.
Dennis
69 OTS
All the spin on oil filter adapters use the original O-ring slot. The center large nut will tighten the adapter against the O-ring and keep it from spinning. It doesn’t leak when a spin on filter is installed because the filter applies pressure to both the O-ring on the spin on filter through the adapter to the O-ring on the original filter block.
I think I would want to take the nut off, clean the threads, then install the nut with some red loctite once and for all!!!
Dennis 69 OTS
and I wish I had a spin on filter!
Dennismo, They sell them at every 7/11 in town…Massive filter choices short or long. All the other junk goes in a box for posterity.
Its a pleasure.
gtjoey1314
This. You don’t want the base to ever rotate against the o-ring. But if you’re going to loctite it, take the plate off completely and replace the gasket first. There’s a chance that rotating it this way has already compromised the seal. For the same reason, when you put the new filter element in, don’t over tighten it.
WOW, Wiggie…
“My RoT is to lube the seal, rotate till the seal contacts the housing, then no more than three turns after that.”
Many years ago, when I was just a puppy, I read that I should tighten it until the seal touches flat, then turn 1/2 turn more. That has always worked for me, and it was not difficult to loosen later.
LLoyd
It’s not what you look at that matters. It’s what you see.
Henry David Thoreau
I might be considered a Luddite for admitting this, but one of the first things I did after buying my car was to remove the spin-on conversion parts and use the original canister. Seems the o-ring exceeded its life expectancy and I had 9 quarts of Castrol 20-50 on the garage floor after an oil change. I really don’t find removing the canister once a year to be a big deal. I remove the air filter can and have clear access to the oil filter.
Thanks everyone for the replies and information! Would anyone happen to know the size of the nut on the spindle as shown? (assuming a similar or identical setup . . .) Again sorry I don’t know the manufacturer but I’m guessing there are not many to begin with . . .
I just tried a 1 inch and a 1 1/16th inch and no go too small - I’ll try a 1 1/8th here soon.
I have an update that my spin-on is a Tecalemit shown here with the 3 inch O-Ring removed (sits behind the mounting plate . . . (Same outfit that made the little grease guns in our Tool Kits?)
The O-Ring does appear to be chaffed and somewhat dried out . . . I’ve Googled around and not yet found a source for just the O-Ring. Offhand, is this something I should be able to source at one of the regular auto parts stores? Called a couple places and nothing available as of yet . . .
My wonderment is now whether or not this O-Ring is specific to the housing *(I’d guess not but let me know where I might look next!)
Btw the internal O-Ring looked great per pic below. (On the left)
Finally, what is this oddball fastener called? As Bill says it’s 1 1/8th across the flats. . . don’t remember ever seeing one quite like it.
Hard to see but it has teeth that insert into a given thread as shown - not necessarily meant to travel up and down the threads or is that not correct?
It looks like a push nut, which is made of sheet metal and is basically designed to keep something from falling apart, not to provide much tension. It’s pressed on the threaded shaft and the one-way fingers hold it, but it can be unscrewed if necessary.
All E-Type filter heads are made by Tecalemit, yes the same people supplied some of the toolkit. This filter head is an early 4.2 part, they changed to a different style around 1968. You can probably find an appropriate o-ring from one of the majors, or you may have to buy a stock oil filter element, which comes with an o-ring.
I believe it’s commonly(?) called a “palnut” or a “push nut”. There’s one on the steering column of my S1.5, p/n C11820/7, but I think it’s smaller than the one you show in this application.
Looks like McMaster might have one if you end up needing one -
Drove over to Engel/Terry’s yesterday and got one - Very fiddly to get the O-Ring to stay put in the backing plate channel as it’s not really a ‘pressure’ fit. I heated the O-Ring up with a heat-gun to get it to lay flat in the channel and carefully threaded on the spindle/plate assembly - snugged but not over tightened.
Only one way to find out now I’ll put some oil in it today or tomorrow and see if she holds oil! Was careful not to over tighten the K&N. Have not opted to use Locktite quite yet . . .
