Suspension bushing replacement

I am at the point where I have the front end so far apart I am contemplating replacing the bushings.
Which brings me to a few questions.

  1. from reading the manuals and searching archives, I am confused at the removal of the lower A Arm. It seems to me that the front fulcrum will need to be removed from the car, yet thats where the jack stands typically go. Do I move them to the picture frame for this operation?

  2. seems the only bushings now available are poly. there is a lot of older posts on poly vs rubber.
    I was thinking I wanted to stay with natural rubber, but alas the only rubber ones avail are aftermarket. Are the new poly bushes better? or are they still stiff and squeaky?

and last… If replace them how likely am I to throw off the alignment? I dread the thought of trying to find an alignment shop that knows anything about E-types.

if all this goes smoothly maybe I will drop the IRS for something to do

Bob F

Hi Bob,

  1. Yes, you’ll have to move your jack stands inboard
  2. I’m quite sure SNG has them in rubber as well as the others, you may have to call them. I have used both and I like the feel of the rubber best, but I have the Poly on my 68 and 73 an neither of the squeak now at 15+ years later.
  3. Yes, you’ll want to get at least the toe in checked and most shops can do that for you. Just keep a close eye on what their doing, find a shop that is ‘comfortable’ with you ‘hovering’.
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You’re far enough down the rabbit hole to seriously consider just doing the alignment yourself. Toe-in can be done with stuff you already have, for caster & camber there are purpose-made tools that make the task easier.

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Thanks LLynn, your points are in line with my thinking. I have to do a little more research but I would like to stay with rubber bushes if I do this now.
Geo, as I seem to recall I saw pictures of your home alignment T square set up some time ago, I will search the archives on that.

I can honestly see how people start taking apart an old car and end up with boxes of parts and never complete the job. And I am just scratching the surface



You can do your own alignment. I’ve done plenty of them. You have to have a magnetic hub, and we do once the knock-off is removed.

alignment tool

This costs about $120.00. I’ve used it on my cars.

Or, you have specially-adapted knockoffs–like my Dad made-- to attach the magnetic alignment tools.


Wow. Why didn’t I think of that. I have dozens of KOs in a box that’s too heavy to move.

You could melt them down and forge a cannon!

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I think I mentioned this once before, but I got pooh-poohed.

I also have a set for 42 mm cars.

You da MAN.

Want the 42 mm ones? I’ll never use them again.

Bob, I may have been two weeks behind you on the brakes, but - I think I’ll let you go ahead without me now :joy:

LOL… IF you saw my SIII. The joke in our house is that a Jaguar has exploded.
Doors are in the barn.
Parts in the metal shop.
Tubs in the basement.
Containers in the wood shop.
Windshield on the bed in an unused guest room.
Bonnet in a crate in the neighbors shed.


I finally got motivated enough back in December to finish up the reassembly of the IRS. Now, once I get the underside shell in shape, I’ll be able to start putting parts back onto the car.

Bob, I would suggest using Metalstik (OEM) bushing if you can find them. Be careful with non Metalstik brand rubber bushings. I got to re-do my radius arms by using non OE quality.
I removed perfectly good Metalastiks (I saw cracked rubber) and put in SNG’s black poly. Maybe I detected a slight improvement in steering response…Maybe. Otherwise a lot of work for nothing. No downside yet (squeeking/impact harshness). I greased everything on assembly.

No thanks. It’ll be a diversion when I get tired of whatever I’m doing to the 120.

I’m keen for the challenge.

I’ve restored 3 basketcases in the past 6 years. Their loss, my gain.

The trick is to restore as you go. I haven’t finished striping the hulk (120) to it’s bare essentials, but I’ve gotten the front suspension rebuilt and painted and in boxes, the trans is done, the rear axle is almost ready for paint and brakes, the heater’s done, the engine’s at the machinist, chrome is repaired and ready to ship out, the shocks are back and in a box ready to install, the one and only rust perforation is patched, and various shades of OEW are already all over the house awaiting a point of the finger. I’m fussy bout color, I start thinking about it before the car even arrives.

Conquering small bits as you go keeps the to-do list down to a realistic size and keeps the whole thing from becoming unmanageable. It all has to get done, but you don’t have to wait til the end to get that warm feeling of accomplishment.

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Thanks David, this is kind of where I was heading. if I cant find true OEM bushings I am leaving this for another time. might be wise to start planning ahead. truthfully, its not that difficult to get back to where I am, just takes a few days. my bushings are similar to what you describe, there is some cracking around edges, however they are still working, no clunks or creaking yet.


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I have the utmost respect for anyone that undertakes a complete restoration. even a minor job.
I am not beyond doing it, with exception of body work, but I appreciate the time and effort required. especially if you are still working for a living.

How do you ensure those knockoffs are straight and true?


And some measuring.