Yep, that’s the problem. The holes in those lugs on the wires are extra large so the plastic bit will fit thru them.
Yes, that looks right.
Great! Thanks! It started right up. But still seems ruff when fully warmed up. Ran it in garage for about 30 minutes and the rough idle returned and actually stalled once. A little hard restarting as before. It seems better since installing new points wires dist cap and regaling plugs but still not right when fully hot. Will replace the condenser since I happen to have one then try timing with light. I’m not sure about the timing procedure in shop manual. Is there a procedure described somewhere using timing light?
I never set the timing using a timing light - mainly because I do not know exactly what the advance should be when the engine is running.
The vernier is used for fine adjustment once you see how the car behaves on the road - but for the most part timing is initially set static. Have you done that and what advance did you use?
One other thing you want to be sure is working is the centrifugal advance - that it moves freely and returns to rest when the engine slows or stops. It can get gummed up if the distributor is dirty or has been excessively lubed.
On mine I can work it and see it snap back (points have to be off the cam to get free movement):
Note - the engine is obviously not running - the sound is the big fan that keeps me cool.
This entire thread…makes me SOOOOO happy, knowing Ill never hafta futz with a p&c ignition, again!
(With the notable exception of my DKW, which will be gone soon, in any case!)
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Yes. I checked this and it is working freely. I will give static timing a go this week. Thanks!
those are just noise suppressor capacitors added to try and reduce the popping in your old stereo.
you can remove it and it wont affect the operation of your ignition, so I doubt it will solve your rough running at temp.
they are everywhere… one there, one on left front of picture frame, another on the fuel pump, one more by the voltage regulator behind the gauges.
The noise suppression cap should be hooked to the non-points side of the coil…is it?
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It’s actually connected to the positive terminal of the coil
that is correct, but its just there as noise suppression for the radio. if you suspect it of nefarious conduct, just unplug it. or remove it completely.
Thanks for all the help. Today I added new rotor and condenser, and new plugs. Did not fiddle with static timing. After 30 minutes a could not duplicate the ruff running, backfire and stalling. I put in all new plugs even though the old ones looked ok to me. So I suspect the condenser was being affected by heat.
Perhaps a tune up is needed more frequently than every 4 years even though I only drove about 2500 miles in that time. Thanks again to the jag lovers!
I sure was happy when Pertronix came out with their stuff so I would not have to play around with points set up anymore. I have had it on 3 of my cars for years with no problems at all. Nice not to have to reset points etc every few thousand miles.
David
68 E-type FHC
Any type of electronic ignition, be it a Crane/Pertronix, or the event better EDIS, is such an improvement over p&c, I simply do not understand some folk’s dogged determination to not use them.
It was the BEST mod I ever made to the Jag.
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I’m going to attempt adopting electronic ignition this winter. I’m sure I will have questions abut that as well.
Thanks!
To be ready for an EMG spike? They will have the only running cars
Cheers,
LLynn (who may be watching too many post apocalyptic movies) 
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Some do not understand my dogged determination to use older cars! 
Tom
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Yahoo, me as well. Nothing related to engines ever gave me as much trouble as points and condensors !!! Feeler gauges and point gap setting never got along. did better by just eye ball. My first dwell meter was a boon. still have one.
Carl
I was ambivalent until the quality of both points and condensers fell so low that it became a crap shoot.
I’ve installed quite a few 123 units, and never had one fail outright (one misbehaved under fluctuating voltage due to a faulty RB regulator). There are rumors now that the classic car designation here in Switzerland won’t be allowed if a 123 is fitted.