It’s also worth mentioning that cars with leaf springs have an inherent resistance to roll, as the leaf springs have to twist in order for body roll to take place.
For this reason, they can usually be set-up with less (or zero) rear sway bar, as opposed to a car with a coil sprung rear suspension.
Great conversation
Gtjoey1314
I solved this quite elegantly: Margaret has no radio in her whatsoever!
I play my iPhone tunes list through my Bluetooth/enabled hearing aids… 
FWIW all Ser 3 E-types came from the factory without a rear sway bar.
I was surprised about this so when I had the chance I asked Norman Dewis about it and he just said it was better without one.
Cheers!
I think in the case of series 3 the weight transfer is 70 to 30😀
Terry – Thanks
I never would have found this site without your lead.
There are 4 options that will fit - all come in either red or black bushings
Anybody goy any comments (pro or con) on them?
Straight up mounts; $14.37
With straight zerk on top; $17.37
With 90° zerk on top; $18.57
Same as first one above, but HD?; $20.97
Interesting data point, but I would argue that the intended audience for the S3, and the intended driving characteristics had shifted considerably from when the E-type was first introduced.
That, and the handling envelope of the chassis was quite different from the S1/2s.
Just finished a chat with a tech at Energy Suspensions.
He/She said: “Those are non-greaseable and the 191145 has a slotted bracket the goes from 2 5/8-3 5/8. Kit 191500 does from 3 5/16-4 3/8.”
Now I gotta measure the existing mounting holes in the frame – but I’m bettin’ the 191145 with a slotted bracket that the goes from 2 5/8-3 5/8 will be closest.
Will I suffice?
I’m kinda goy.
Ha – first time I’ve had a typo that was a Jewish term.
I bought that Pontiac and drove it for about 2 years to work in Clearwater, FL. It was a scary prospect in traffic. Other folks just did not understand how little stopping power it had. The steering was awful too. Funny to think about it too, because as a kid I drove those cars and we thrashed them; I never knew better. I put the suspension and brake improvements in the car long before I restored/improved it just because it was scary in traffic.
So not to drag this out, how many put the 7/8 front sway bar and left the rear STOCK?
Looks like many dont even make a rear bar?
Brief stroll down memory lane…
A million years ago, in the mid-70s, the notion that is was fun to go around corners began to take root. As a form of street racing is was generally a lot less expensive than going fast in a straight line so those of us without a lot of money went that route.
Mulholland Drive was one of the favorite um…test tracks.
Anyhow…
It may interest you to know that, for a period of time, THE car to beat on Mulholland Drive was a '65 LeMans with a 326 and a 2-speed automatic!
How we came through that period alive is still a mystery to me. A couple guys did go over the edge but survived with just minor injuries.
I remember getting the brakes so hot that the grease liquified and dripped out of the front hubs, wiping out the wheel bearings on my '66 Mustang.
Cheers
DD
A constant source of mystery to moi…
I’ve driven a slew of speedy cars that cornered like nobody’s business… on a smooth road. Once on the real-world rough stuff, though, they became skittery as hell. They were just too stiff for the conditions.
Too often “good cornering” and “absolute absence of body roll” are equated. It ain’t so. Controllability, predictability, and good adhesion under all conditions also matters. Well, to me, at least.
Cheers
DD
Somebody mention body roll?
Yea, but let’s see a Jag thru the whoop-de-doos!
Let’s also hear it for 10-90 shockies, and 20" of suspension travel!
Also…(runs to don Nomex undies)…chances are, they’re faster in the turns than an E Type.
That’s how I run. I’ve tried many bars, including the massively stiff Addco system. The 7/8" bar with stock rear seems best on the street by a seat of the pants feel.
You can easily modify a poly bushing and bracket to be greaseable:
Superpro makes poly bushings in various sizes that fit the Jaguar shells.
SPF1133-19K for the 3/4" bar
SPF1133-22K for the 7/8" bar
I also like to use shaft collars on either side of the bushing to keep the bar from sliding right or left.
A childhood friend suggested that if GoPros had been around when we were kids, we would have never made it past 18.