Weather stripping install problem

Hi all, on my '69 S2 2+2 restoration project and I’m nearing the end, only to once again get smacked in the face.

I installed my first batch of weather stripping, and the door did not close, not even close. The forum guys said it’s the wrong stuff and go to MacGregors for the right stuff (pictured on the right of a photo) got it today and went to install it.

The big problem I have is the edge of it stands proud of the paint by about an 1/8" so when the door closes, I assume (not tested it) that the rubber edge will peek through - thoughts?

The only think I can think of to do is cut off a foot in this area (above the cill) and turn it 180 degrees.

Any advise is much appreciated. Pat




What you are holding is the seal for the Quarter light (windows). The A pillar seal will have a dogleg in it and the shut pillar seal (where you are installing your seal in the photo), is a lip seal that looks like a letter C with a flat bottom.

Oh boy, now I’m afraid that I’m even more confused than before (this is my first ever Jaguar).

It would really really help me to have a photo of the seal(s) you speak of it at all possible and where the "A"post seal starts and finishes if it changes type depending where it is.

The fellow who sold me the seals for the door (A and B post) came highly recommended to me from the forum guys via a previous post, he said they are the same as the rear quarter window seal. Now, you are telling me they are not.

Sorry to confuse you it is daunting to solve the puzzle of an E-type for the first time. Here is a diagram I just made. This is what my Series 1 and the Series 2 door seals look like.

Here is a diagram from a catalog I saved too that may help understand my drawing better.

There are times with the seals where a sharp razor and even a stone wheel on a table grinder is helpful. for making the seals thinner…

Hello Pat,
The rubber section shown in the right of your first picture is the rubber that many Jag Parts suppliers are supplying as the “B” Pillar seal. It’s not actually correct, but will work if the whole of the rubber section is made from a soft rubber. Unfortunately, either those who commission the manufacture of these seals, or those that manufacture the seals, step outside their usual comfort zone and try an become designers in an attempt to improve on what clearly worked when Jaguar first turned the E Type out.

The following picture is of the section being sold by at least one of the usuals as a “B” Pillar Seal, showing it being made from two densities of rubber.

It also appears that the Seal you have for the “B” is also of two different densities of rubber. On the surface, it seems that having the T Section of the Seal (the part that clips into the Seal Retaining Channel) made from a hard rubber and the remainder of the Seal from a soft rubber is a good idea. However, fitting this rubber will result in a car where you need a run up to slam the door hard enough to close it (I exaggerate, but not by much).

What I have seen done by some is to cut and remove much of the hard section out of the Seal as shown in the following picture. The section between the two Red Lines is removed.

I flat out refuse to buy a dog and then have to bark for it, which is tantamount to what you do when you buy something like a Weather Seal and then have to mutilate it so it fits. I’m sure Jaguar didn’t do that in the day. Accordingly, when I receive rubbish parts that I’ve paid through the nose for (its not like the sellers are giving these rubbers away), I send them back.

I recently had the experience with fitting the Seal shown in the first picture above and it turned the car into a door slammer. I happened to have a Seal from a kit purchased from another supplier, some years before, that was soft rubber throughout and doing nothing other that swap to the soft seal, the doors closed under their own weight from an opening of approximately 20degs and above.

Following is a picture showing the various Seal Profiles for a 2+2. You can Google the part number to get description of where each go.

The section shown for BD20500 is what is being supplied for both the Quarter Glass and the “B” Pillar.

The Seal shown at the Left in your first picture is the section of the Seal for the “A” Pillar. This is another Seal that will make the door hard to close. Many supply a seal that is too Large in section. So much so, that it acts as a fulcrum and you can see the forward section of the door being levered outwards.

It appears from your other pictures, that you’re fitting the Seal shown in the Right of your first picture to the “A” Pillar. The Seal that fits on the “A” Pillar is Seal BD30301 shown in the picture above and appears to be the Seal shown in the Left of your first picture. Your BD20500 Section Seal may work if you install it on the “B” Pillar, as although its made of the two densities of rubber, the hard section is not nearly as large as the section shown in my first picture.

The soft seal that worked in the aforementioned job came from XK Unlimited.



Hello John,
Pat’s car is a 2+2. The Seals are way different in their location and section to what you seem to be describing as FHC Seals.



This diagram is a S3 but seals your discussing are the same…

Thanks for correcting my reply Bill. The 2+2 is one model I have never worked on.

Where did that picture come from? And is there one for the FHC?

It’s a great resource, thanks for posting it.

Pat, here are a few shots of my car.

Rick Taillieu
'69 E-Type 2+2

Only things I can add of value…as mentioned the round seal is what I have used on my '68 2+2 for the A post. It is quite firm but the 2+2 door is quite heavy vs the SWB cars, and this helps…the other seal you show is what I have used for the B post…so, all I can say is that if you adjust the doors correctly, and leave the doors closed, the seals will take a “set” over time…couple of weeks and make the doors easier to close. Mine don’t don’t require a “running start” to close but they do require a firm hand from about 6" out from the closed position.

Like others, I do wish our suppliers would test the products before selling. I know at least one supplier that doesn’t have a 2+2 as its “mule” so how can they test products specific to this model? It is annoying but at least they do supply something that does work!

Hello Les,
With the Seal shown in the first picture of my Post, being supplied as a BD28434 Seal (which it is not), you could leave the door closed from now until Doomsday and it would make no difference, so large a percentage of the Seal is hard, virtually in-compressible rubber.



Hello John,
Its part of the S111 2+2 Parts Manual. I believe I have the same in a manual for am S11 FHC; I’ll have to search for that and come back.



Just a quick update, put back on my old but correct “O” sealer and did the old razor blade trick (put in a slice on the bottom of the “O” on the forward part of the door and now with a little “persuasive encouragement” the door closes.

Thanks. ……………………

Here’s a couple of pics of the B-post seal on my car, they show the “set” I mentioned…

Mine came from SNG.

Hello Les,
Is the Cross Section the same as the Seal shown in the first picture of my earlier Post?



Hi Bill,
I couldn’t remember if it was the same or not, so I pulled it out a little and took this picture. As you can see it isn’t quite the same as yours and I get all my stuff from SNG. You might want to send them this pic and ask if they have this stuff in stock…


Hello Les,
I can see how the Seal you have may compress over time. It appear as though its made entirely of a fairly spongy material. It is reasonably soft? The “T” section of the Seal shown in the first picture of my earlier Post, is very, very firm and practically non-compressible and its this component of the Seal that makes for a very hard to close door.

Its interesting that the Seal shown in your picture is supplied by SNG Barratt (I assume the USA branch), because the Seal shown in my picture is also supplied by SNG Barrat, but from the UK.

I actually sent the UK branch pictures of the Seal supplied to me months ago, along with an explanation of the problem, yet two Seals received only a few days ago are of the same, unusable construction. The Seals were in sealed plastic bags, labelled BD28434.