NaplesGuy
Would you mind sharing the cost for doing your seats?
and
the shipping costs from OSJI to (I assume) Naples, FL?
Craig
1 Like
Hello, I’m also interested in knowing the cost as well. The interior is the next step for the for my car that has been in hibernation since 1981. Thanks in advance
Garth…
I purchased their entire interior kit with the exception of the materials for the hood and which included all of the foam, seat covers, etc. needed for the seats. Total cost for all of that was $3,861. The labor for the two seats and the console - plus several additional parts that were needed for repairs to the seats and console in the restoration was $2,924. Shipping of the seats and console to me from OSJI was $320.
Obviously you should contact OSJI directly to get price quotes as it will vary depending on what you needed (and if you want pricing only for the seats). My contact was Amy Seats (yes that is her name) and she was extremely helpful and responsive to my questions. Happy to answer any additional questions about my experience with OSJI as well as the installation of the various items in the kit.
Chet
Also, OSJI is one of the few service providers that actually posts its labor prices to perform specific tasks on its website, less material costs. Labor in Muncie is pretty reasonable at $65/ hr. https://www.muncieimports.com/interior-installation.html
That is reasonable hourly price. IMHO, the seats aren’t that difficult having done them many years ago, and they came out very nice and remain so. The console, especially the parrots beak and the cutout for the parking brake are the PITA, and if doing again, I would probably sub that out to OSJI
Thanks Scott this really gives you a better prospective and directions based on our finances…
Having just done mine this summer, I completely concur. I was concerned that they would be difficult and found them very easy. One of the easiest parts of the entire FHC interior.
The use of magnets to temporarily hold things in position, and allowing me to turn the seat over and check for fit before stapling, gave me complete confidence to continue as I knew what the outcome would look like before making any cuts, or installing any fasteners.
2 Likes
Just to complete things - here’s the finished product. Getting the radio console over the shifter and gaiter without messing up the vinyl was a royal PITA! I’m still not happy with the way it fits but left that final process for another day.
Larry and Robert I gave a lot of thought to doing the seats and console myself but in the end I decided to let someone with knowledge and expertise do it rather than try it myself and perhaps really mess it up! 
Chet
6 Likes
I understand. At the time I restored mine I was relatively poor with a young family to support so I did everything myself including the rebuild of the engine, rear, everything. Body and paint as well, but I really need to get that to a professional to get it finished better. Still finding it hard to part with $15k for that, but will at some point 
I see you did the windscreen pillars in black. I like that.
1 Like
My 69 has them in black from the factory.
Mine may have been as well. But the Bartlett kit the PO bought on the mid 80s had biscuit pieces for them. I may order some black vinyl from OSJI to do those. 
Larry
Maybe certain interior colors had different pillar colors.
Maybe Pekka can answer…
Marco
Larry, my pillars were already black when I got the car so I can claim no credit for that
Got new seat rails in yesterday and put them on. Although tight I can still get them to move whilst outside on the car.
Ripped out the carpet and padding forward of the seats so I can install thermal and sound barrier someone mentioned on here that mineral spirits works to remove the old contact cement. Had my doubts before trying but man! It worked great. Followed up by wiping down with lacquer thinner to remove the spirits.
Found the drain holes in the floor pans that Joey was talking about today. I had forgotten they ever existed. There’s two on each pan. Must really expect a LOT of water egress! 
2 Likes
Saw one of those ceramic polish kits on sale. Used it first on my other 3 cars with 25+ year old paint and worked well for a few weeks now so tried it on the E yesterday. First I used clay bar to get every thing nice and clean and smooth. This paint is at least 20 years old and could be much older but has always shined up well but now I think is even better. Seems very slick now and like would be difficult for anything to stick. On my cars under the carport dust does not accumulate near as rapidly as before.
David
68 E-type FHC
3 Likes
I was initially skeptic on “clay” bar kits, but I’m a true believer now. Its a lot of work, but well worth it. Jeff S. Atlanta, GA
Me too. I parked under a “sap” tree a few years ago. I tried wax, polishing compound and a few other things that the sap just laughed at. I was really worried so I bought a clay bar kit not expecting much but it knocked it right off with little effort. Probably the best paint appearance thing I have tried. So far this ceramic polish seems very good too but first put it on one of my other cars less than a month ago. I hope it holds up well and so far so good.
David
68 E-type FHC
Willing to share which kit you’re trying? I’m not to that point yet but I know there are a lot of ceramic products out there, and I don’t know much about any of them.
Thanks!
RobY
Rob the one I got is called Shine Armor. It was in the discount bin at the store so I tried it first on my '71 Vega with 30 year old very tired paint and gave it best shine it has had in years. Goes on easy especially after I smoothed things first with the clay bar. I do not know much about all the different ones either. Jury is still out on how long the shine and slick feel will last but seems better than the usual waxes I have tried.
David
68 E-type FHC
wth is that? and 20.