As I start my learning curve about these cars its my understanding that the 1750 engine is preferred over the 2000 due to being a faster reving engine (not higher rpms just “zippier “).
So, you can actually replace brakepads with out dropping the whole rear end? How about getting the brake cylinders off for resealing them?
It’s early in the season, but I really needed to get some gardening done.
50 miles away.
It would have been rude to drive the Audi.
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Yes, that is my recollection, not unlike the difference between a 3.8 and 4.2 Jaguar.
BTW - my first car was a pale blue 1959 Triumph TR3A.
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There are access plates under the back seat on the 2+2 based cars for changing brake pads. To pull the calipers requires the rear suspension to be dropped.
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1959 Triumph TR3A.
We had a Tr3 dad bought it for $50 and over the years we did most everything to it on a budget , drove it for years . It could have been much better if not for a high school kids finances
Cheers
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Can anyone point me in the direction of a Cadmium plating company in Florida? Or is there another alternative? Wire brush and Rustoleum?
Thanks.
One alternative, used by many here, is the zinc plating kit sold by Caswell. I’ve used it and am highly satisfied with the results.
https://caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits.html
You can make your own for about 5 bucks my corvette restoration friend copied my process google it
Cheers
Interesting. Got a link you can provide?
My less than perfect roofers didn’t reassemble the wooden blocks supporting my compressor with screws or nails for that matter (if I’d known what was holding the compressor up when the roof was done I would have had them change it to a modern stand).
Anyway the top block of wood had slid out causing the compressor to make some odd noises. So up through the hatch I went to troubleshoot. I hate being up high like that. If I fall off the back, it’s four stories down. If I fall off the front, I die quicker. It’s only a three story drop to the pavement.
So how to the hold the front of the compressor up so I could slide the wood back in and screw down to its sisters?
Jag jack to the rescue. Finally, something to do with my $700 jack. Worth every blessed penny.
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That might be the only thing I would ever recommend anybody lifting with that jack… 
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Thanks for the link. I guess I’m shopping in the wrong stores. I can’t buy those glass containers, vinegar, salt, pure zinc sheets, carb cleaner and distilled water, all for $5 or less. 
Seriously though, what the guy in the video is demonstrating is basic chemistry using mostly common materials. While it works I’m not convinced you get results equal to what you would get with a Caswell kit and certainly not what you would get with using a professional plater.
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It was perfect because it’s the flattest jack I have when it’s down. Plus, the ratcheting handle makes it easy to use. You don’t want to do anything too forceful that might cause you to lose your balance when you’re on a roof.
I imagine it’s the last time I’ll use it. I carry a Porsche 944 jack in the car. Somebody hear recommended it. It’s a very good jack.
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You use plastic containers
Piece of copper house electrical wire ,strip it for hangers
Copper tube for plumbing
Epson salt your wife has it , vinegar your kitchen
6v battery charger you’ve got one on’t you
Sand blast your parts to clean them this is the cost ,I belong to a club that has a sand blaster
Zinc , roofers
Some pool chemicals anyone with a pool, hot tub
And you can do your whole car plus ,in your time for a lot less than even a Caswell kit don’t forget your shipping cost
As for quality all the best paint jobs are professional right , as you said it’s just chemistry
Not convinced well try it then decide . Part of this hobby is learning to do this stuff
Who doesn’t have all this junk around depends on your universe I guess
As I said my corvette buddy looked at the results on my car and emulated me ,he goes to Barrett Jackson shows
Cheers
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Much of the stuff on the list of materials had to be bought at one time or another. They just didn’t magically appear in a pantry-garage-workshop.
Probably not the best comparison since personal expertise plays a much larger role in painting a car than it does in plating a bolt. I’ve seen many excellent “amateur” paint jobs. Amateur meaning the person doing the job wasn’t being paid for his or her services. I’d wager they were done with quality material and professional level equipment (maybe with the exception of a $20,000 paint booth) by individuals who could match bodywork and painting skills with the paid professionals.
Back in the day, we non-professionals would use lacquer, as it went on thin and any mistakes could be re-done on the next coat. I painted my 65 OTS with about 8 coats. Opalescent Bronze Metallic. It looked a mile deep.
Dave,
Keep the jack handy, in a very few years the 2x4’s will rot and need replacement.
I’m suspicious of people who don’t like dogs.
But I trust dogs who don’t like people.
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That’s how they installed it on pine 2x4’s on a pitched roof, without any flashing or way to really seal the roof from water? Insane.
once you found out, I would have made it clear to the owner what was done and demand they do it right even it has been several years. Threaten to show that picture to all of the review sites. Abominable work.
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