If the E-type fellas can have this topic, and on other vehicle forums…
I used to try and average 1hr per day while I was working
after 20yrs ownership, I decided to finally sort out the locking issues in my 420G!
Promptly locked the boot and could not get it open, it popped open at 90mph!
Once home, I dismantled and lubed the entire mechanism, every piece…it works perfectly now
In addition, my single teardrop DS rear view mirror has erectile dysfunction since I owned it
The internal thread must be stripped in the “hold” position
I recently accquired 2 x used MKX teardrops, so that mine can have a matching pair
they have the wrong headed screw in them but it holds.
I suspect the threads are subtly different (original thread likely to be an odd BA or BSP thread imo)…off to the fastener specialist to get the right head, and a thread that will hold.
In the meantime, the mirror does not droop down useless on the flank, but stands proudly upright, doing its job
I stripped and cleaned the mounting brackets for my horns using an electrolysis bath and then a coat of rust converter (just to prime).
Tomorrow I paint.
Small steps.
Dave
I fixed a vacuum leak on the MK2 - the elbow coming out of the vacuum advance unit is old and perished. As a temporary fix I fitted a heat shrink sleeve over the protruding pipe and refitted the elbow with a zip tie. Now I have only a small falter when I stand on it from a start or from low revs in second an top. Topped up the dash pots and it’s a bit better but not gone. I love fault finding - I think the front carb might be a bit lean. Paul
Chasing down moisture in #5 cylinder after recent over heating…after redecking head, think it may be warped intake mainfold. Crossing fingers this is it.
Finally wired up the wideband o2 sensor I’ve had on the self for half a year, mounted in the glovebox with some extra hard felt. Next weekend the bungs will go into the pipes and then to fine tune the carbs…
Managed to get the heater box back in the ‘S’ only took three attempts and of course the little clip that holds the hot/cold flap actuator on flipped off…and tinkled down the exposed exhaust pipe
Also found out that the side lights are held in by captive nuts, just need to track some down 6-32nc
Edit;
Found some pack of 1000 - 466 pounds think I’ll pass on those
Conclusion; Ihad a strip of 12mm x 3mm allly, drilled and tapped 6-32nc and araldited the suckers in, job done
I use the term *rap in the general broad sense to mean the detritus from the shed, garage, mother in laws recent house move etc. If one were to use the term literally, we have toilets for that.
Pulled the cam covers on my 3.8S to measure the valve clearances since after 1500 miles and two years the professionally done cylinder head overhaul has recently resulted in excessive tappet noise apparently from the intake side. Found intake clearances all over the map from less than .002 to .007. and exhaust from 004 to .009. Its going back to the shop to set this right.
Hard to make out the colour - Sherwood Green? I pulled the distributor and freed up the vacuum advance operation, which was sticking. The vacuum unit still operates properly and is well sealed. All back in and timed up. Now running really well with no miss.
