What do the resonators do

Would like a bit more exhaust sizzle. Would replacing the resonators with tubing jazz up the exhaust sound. Car has borla stainless mufflers and stainless tubing also headers. Super quiet at low rpms. Rips pretty good under hard excelleration. How about eliminating the mufflers and just run the resonators. Any ideas out their

Stock exh. mainifolds & downpipes. 1 1/4" straight pipes (no mufflers) to oem flattened diff pipes, to Supertrapp racing mufflers in place of resonators.
Perhaps not for everyone. But I like it everytime I turn the key. Lots of torque, snappy throttle response.

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I’ll see if I can find the one recording of Tweety, who had a similar set-up.

You’ll never really know until you try it. Remove your resonators and stick 2 3’ sections of exhaust pipe where they were. If you like the sound have a muffler shop bend two pieces with the same bends of the resonators.

can stock mufflers or resonators be routed out for a throatier sound?

Not really: try what John suggested, and see how you like it, sans resonators.

Resonate. 1234567890

Removing the resonators would be a good test.
If it sounds good. Could cut the resonator away from the tubing and run the new tubing through the resonator and weld it together. Rechrome.
And it would look stock. Gonna give it a go…

A church organ pipe is a resonator at a single frequency. Many years ago I tried a 66 4.2 without resonators, just a straight pipe after the mufflers. At certain engine revs you would hit the pipe length resonance and it got LOUD. Above or below that frequency it was not bad. Unfortunately the resonance occurred at about 55-65 MPH, right where I wanted to drive it. I installed new resonators and all was well.

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I believe our exhaust resonators work in the reverse to what you had with straight pipes, that is they are tuned to absorb the resonant frequency of the exhaust note to prevent the organ pipe effect. I suppose they are more accurately named resonance absorbers.

We agree. Resonators are there to spoil the resonance.

That effect seemed to be attenuated by the SuperTrapps I used.

I agree it’s one of those things you try and see if it suits what you want
My experience: I have stainless steel headers and st/steel bigger bore pipe and mufflers(1 3/4" if I remember correctly vs 1 1/4" stock pipes)
At first I used straight tail pipes , no resonator, and I experience a very loud sound at a certain speed.just as Wwayman described above. My buddies with the American muscle cars said I sounded like the cars up at Watkins Glen.
I also think that I had much less back pressure and the car was less responsive at speeds below 60 mph. I recall reading that back pressure is beneficial at low speeds while no back pressure is great when you are revving very high at high speed.
That’s why racers use superTrapp mufflers, I suppose, so they can control the back pressure to match the type of race course.
They do this by adding or removing those plates on the SuperTrapps and controlling the back pressure.
So as a experiment I placed the original 1 1/4" resonators back using a adapter vs the bigger 1 3/4" straight pipes and found the performance to be much much better at speeds under 60 mph. The etype also had a very nice subdued growl louder than stock but not as drastic as before.
In my head I was thinking that by placing a 1 1/4" resonator at the end of a 1 3/4" system would be defeating the 1 3/4" system but I was told otherwise
As usual, a lot is going on as the hot exhaust is streaming out into the headers, as it makes its way out it expands then cools etc. I am not smart enough to know all the physics. Also the distance that the 1 1/4" resonators is in relation to the exhaust headers plays a big role too. Just think of the horns in a orchestra .
When I decide to take a 120 mph leisurely drive, I can always remove the 1 1/4" resonators, lol
But the whole thing about back pressure and performance is addressed by those Trapp exhaust tips. I may buy them, they allow for more tuning possibilities
Am I right or am I whistling Dixie here?

Lost a few mph in trap speed on my old FJ1100 with SuperTraps. Stock Japanese engineered exhaust restored the speed (trap speed more consistent than e.t.). Also… my stock GXR 1100 was as quick as the “modified” GXR’s the Chicago guys had, seeming to indicate “Don’t fool with Mother (Japan) Nature”. Not a Super Trap fan. Had F1 pipes on the Yami also (with jet changes advised) and also slower than the stock set up. I don’t think all factory stuff is improvement proof, but bleeding edge factory performance stuff is hard to beat. SuperTraps, “vortex intakes”, K&N filterchargers - pardon me if I’m very skeptical.

It is a very interesting topic
It’s all inter connected starting with the type of air intake to exhaust tip
Tuning it to as close as u can get to the best set up for the type of driving you do

The biggest factor are the valves

Stock pipes are all 1-3/4"…

Explain please.

No disagreement there: that’s why, I advocate for the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. they work better on all but the hottest cams and properly-massaged head/intake.On the dyno, with a SuperTrapp, I could indeed move the torque/hp peaks around on my 1200 Datsun full-race engine, to the point that I could attain the same numbers as a straight-through system.

I could not have cared less, on Tweety, because I only wanted to attenuate the lack of any mid-mufflers. Where it made 1 HP’s worth of difference or not, simply didn’t matter.

I stand corrected, I crawled under my car and I have two inch exhaust running into the stock 1 3/4" resonators
Regarding what I meant by the valves, I would believe that valve work and porting would help maximize the airflow from intake through exhaust.