can anyone please let me know ,where is the best place to buy 1985 xj6 vandenplas head studs.head gasket set,and freeze plugs
Jaguar Daimler spares
thank you, I dont want to go cheap and have a head stud break with the torque down,this car is my sisters,I want to see her very happy with the final outcome.
Where you should get those components depends on where in the world you are located. This is an international list with many members in the USA, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Where are you?
I believe that SNG Barratt has a world wide presence, but XKS Unlimited (now Moss Motors) is in California, USA. I believe that Jaguar Daimler Spares is in Australia. I am in the USA and use Moss Motors, SNG Barratt, and Welsh Enterprises for OEM type components.
The failure mode for these long stud engines is mainly rust, we don’t generally reuse. I changed all the head studs in my '72 a few years ago. Studs came from SNG Barratt. The torque for each is 54 or 56 lbs-ft from memory, so not as high as some. If as for my '72 make sure you buy the dowel stud - it’s the second or third one on the right looking from the radiator. It locates the head relative to the block and is sometimes replaced with a standard stud in provided sets. There is much in the archives about proper “depthing” new studs and lots of help here, if needed. Paul
I am in upstate New York near the Canadian border,near Alexandria Bay,near the Saint Lawrence River. Thank you very much for taking time for me.Please keep me in mind for this messaging because this is the first Jaguar I have lapped a new valve into the head.I am taking great pains to clean thoroughly the head and block mating surfaces.I have the freeze plugs out 9 all toll.cleaned and blown out the head stud threaded holes in the block. Sure was a mind game getting the studs out with the double nut idea.this, my sisters car I hope all turns out fine in the end.this 1985 xj6 vandenplas is fuel injected.
Thank you Breen, I have alot of work ahead on Karens xj6. The head studs look no rust at all,but I keep seeing people cast a word to caution about reusing the studs again.When I removed the studs there seemed to appear a type of gasket material ,like permatex smelling coating around the studs as I fought with them all the way out.No fun,just struggle!
Post some pictures of the studs.
The studs can leak coolant from the engine block up to the top of the cylinder head. Usually stops after a while. Perhaps the Permatex product was to assist with this issue. Paul
Ignore them. If the studs are not so corroded as to significantly reduce their thickness and strength, it’s fine to go ahead and reuse them. There are later Jaguars with studs that can only be reused a time or two, but this isn’t one of them.
get in touch with DAVID BOGER in this jaglovers.
Well. Are they slightly pitted or do they look as if a beaver went to town? What is important is that you get the threads down in the block nice and clean all the way down. If there’s crud they might not seat… also lots of copper coat/antiseize.
hey, thanks,that will be one worry out of the way
Thank you david, the studs arent pitted ,they all look to be fine
ok I will try this weekend,I work away ,during the week
Just a tip Mike, you can reply to all posts just in the one reply, saves multiple posts.
Then you can definitely reuse them, and good luck with the rest.
need help,I have the 1985 xj6 working on it to make it right after finding just one exhaust valve damaged.Before I removed the head,with the valve covers off,I rotated the crankshaft to bring the camshaft notches 90 degrees to the flat surface of the head.Expecting to see the timing marks at the pointer,I see they are at about 11 oclock,while the pointer is to the right at about 2 oclock. At that time I made my own mark on the crankshaft pulley before removing the camshafts ,and then the head. Of course I will not move the crankshaft position. I dont understand why the marks arent on the pointer, The number six piston is at top dead center.
That being the front most cylinder?
Interesting. I recently acquired an old series 1 4.2 motor and found a similar thing. The marks were out exactly 60 degrees as far as I could tell. Made a mark on the damper at TDC and managed to start the motor, but I am dismayed at how the keyway can be so far out.