Window switches

Hi, I have been having problems with the drivers side (RH) window switch, I have taken it out a couple of times to clean it and I could get it to work for a while, however a week or so ago it died completely and so I decided to swap it with the LH rear switch (on the ski ramp) which doesn’t get used often. I should mention here that a previous owner has been in the ski ramp and there are some obvious modifications to the wiring. I have checked the wiring against some diagrams that I found on this forum and it’s a little confusing as some of the wires match to the diagram and some don’t.

My problem is this, the LH rear window switch doesn’t work now on the ski ramp (no surprise there) but the 2 switches on the transmission tunnel do not work either despite having power to them on a couple of terminals on each switch, when checked with a multi meter (which oddly shows 15 volts?).

I know that these switches are in series and therefore the non operational switch on the ski ramp could have taken out the 2 switches on the tunnel but before I spend the cash on a new switch for the LH rear switch on the ski ramp will this fix the issue with the 2 rear switches?

I should point out that the 2 rear switches worked fine until I meddled with the wiring!

Thanks in advance for any insights,



That is correct.
A new switch will most probably solve your problem.
The best thing you can do though to protect the switches and make the windows go up and down much faster is to install relays.

Thank you for your reply Aristides.

So, I understand the basic functions of a relay but after that I have to admit to being ‘all at sea’. I believe that I would require 2 relays per motor - correct? Where would I mount them - between the switch and the motor?

I apologise for asking dumb questions but I have never had much to do with “electricity” apart from changing a plug or a fuse!



No need to apologize, Robert - it sure isn’t a dumb question; the window wiring, particularly when a PO has done ‘something’ is complicated enough for any question…

And in a series 3 the windows are wired in parallel - but no less complicated…:slight_smile:

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Are you aware of the fact that there is a main switch that cuts operation of the rear windows all together?
It’s the top-middle switch on the ski slope…flip it and try if the rear window controls work now…

Hi Patrick, actually on my car the middle switch switches off all the windows, not just the rears. I have tried that switch and unfortunately that’s not the cause of my issue.
I have found 4 used switches which I have ordered and I hope that when I replace the broken switch my rear switches come back to life.


Hi Bob,

no sweat, SNG Barratt still carry the switches new I think…

I have removed mine and taken them apart. Cleaned and replaced. function restored.

On my car the main power switch kills all switches, sun roof included. Some jump this switch in an effort to reduce resistance.
Prize thew pivot oin o9ne side and it will open the case just a tad. Remove the rocker. Now youn see tiny posts and rails.

Work over a pan. Tiny parts wander…

C lean the contacts. Carefully replace in the proper order. Most work then.

Only once did I find a busted post rendering the switch a goner.

Review the Jaguar Schematic S57. To remove any PO mods and restore to factory.

Keep the cable to switch orientation You may end up with a reverse function. I know!!!



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Hi Carl,

I cleaned the contacts with alcohol and put the switch back and it worked well for a while but the centre part of the toggle became very worn and then disintegrated making it irreparable.

Thanks anyway,


Yes and no…
The power for the rear switches is provided from the front ones.
When you press the front switch power is cut to the rear as to prevent confusion when both switches are pressed simultaneously.

Yes it’s a quite involved modification and are many ways to go around it.
I used two SPDT relays per window.

XJ Windows Relays upgrade.pdf (94.6 KB)

Yes, Aristides - but those are the switches that controls the same window. All windows can be operated simultaneously - but the same window cannot be operated simultaneously by two switches…

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Thank you Aristides, where did you mount the 2 boards holding the relays?




while the relay mod is a sort of king’s way it would scare me enough to stick with the original which will work well enough if in good shape.

I had the same issue - probably - as you and had a temporary fix with a bamboo barbecue skewer replacing the broken pivot. After some time it would fail again and I did a very inexpensive fix with a used spare part.

Ideally, once you’re at it, upon cleaning and lubricating the switches and sanding the spade connectors you check all individual switches at the same position. Then you restore the original setup with the S57 schematic. Everything should be fine again.

Good luck


75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

Well, not really. Once you have relay-controlled windows, you’ll wonder why you ever put up with the sluggish windows of the OEM setup. Once those window motors get full power, they zip up and down with authority – and seem to get even faster after some use, as apparently full power somehow cleans the cobwebs out of the motor.

Not to mention the window switches will last forever once they’re only controlling relay coil current rather than full window motor current.

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I never put relays into an XJ6, but I have done it on all my Rolls Royces which are known to have slow windows. Ironically, I did my Corniche this week. Simply, I used the common 4 blade relay (30, 85, 86 & 87 terminals). I mounted the relay inside the door. You connect the power, ground, original power to the motor to the relay and another “new” wire from the relay to the motor. As mentioned, the relay simply increases or boosts the power to the motor. The windows are now fast are like a 2021!

PS Total cost was $3.41 per relay not including the wire!


I’ve put them on the central console, under the cubby box, you can see it in the 4th photo of my post.
It’s a very convenient place as you are close to the switches and all the window cables are there. The rear window cables where intercepted at the back, after the rear switches.
This is a somewhat a compromise as I’ve left the old cables that go to the doors, the only new cable was from the battery to feed the relays. Works fine though.

The best way, but more work involved, is to put each pair of relays in the door and bring a new power cable on each door.

Thanks Aristides, I missed the photo in your earlier post,


Me too. Not that I am about to do it. but, I developed an early interest in relays. A rack of them across the bulkhead of my lump.

The circuitry is so simple yet so intriquing.
Trigger circuit and load circuit.

I fixed the hot crank isue in my IHc Scout II. Same ACDELCO starter found in GM cars. A relay!!! At that time, one from an old Chrysler. Solid state circuitry!!

And a few years ago one droped on tothe hot exhast. A “port” opened in the plastic case. Minature coil inside and contacts…


I’m still considering having a go at installing the relays but I want to fit my ‘new’ (used switch) first to see if that fixes my immediate problem of the rear switches not working. I have to say that the switch that is broken, is purely a ‘mechanical’ issue and not electrical so the switches have lasted nearly 50 years which isn’t bad.
Also I can wait a few seconds for the windows to open and close!