XJ needs to be moved after 20 years... help please

These are the kind of “gotta-love-it” stories; yet life typically teaches the opposite story with the old family-owned and well-stocked hardware store being replaced by some party-gimmicks-birthday-candy store … As much as I’d love to shop locally, but there’s only one serious hardware store left around my place and while they’ve got quality tools and I may get twenty minutes of service for a sale of one nut at 24 cents, in many times they have to order the part first. So I resume to online ordering myself :frowning:

Enjoy the shops while you’ve got them!

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

Hello again, I finally was able to install all the bits and pieces onto the new water pump and install it in the car. My original water pump had a few bolts and 2 studs to the engine housing. These studs made removing the water pump with the radiator in place impossible, thus removing the Water pump a royal PIA. I elected to replace them with bolts as well. The install is now much simpler.

Also the 4 studs that hold the plastic fan were not included in the new water pump kit, so I had to remove these from the old one as well. Had to tighten 2 nuts against each other to get those out.

Any way. Finally got around to connecting all the hoses and getting everything the coolant circuit filled with water for the night. Again just trying to avoid a giant mess on the floor. Also I did waste quite a few liters of coolant last time and the stuff is not free either. I will go back today and see if I have any leaks. If it looks good I will replace the water with proper coolant hopefully for the last time in a while. Really ready to be done with this issue! Of course the real test would be with pressure from the engine. But the exhaust is still not fixed and I do no think its a good idea to fire her up with no exhaust. Will probably melt my transmission or whatever else is in the way.

1 Like

Also still working on the rims. My new tires have also arrived. So hopefully Ill get her back on brand new looking wheels soon. Can’t wait! also my apartment has a nice rubbery smell now. haha

2 Likes

No!! If the manifold is in place, there is little that the gss will hurt. Do not miss the outright delight in the frst run at a +++= nose level/

My first victory lap around the bockm was sans bonnett and only on short down pipes.

later, i drove to town, sans mufflers. to have the exhast sstem plmbed. Not as noisy as one might think at low throttle opening. I wondered if a cop might pull me over. No, it sid nt happen.

Go fpor it !!!

Yes the downward two into one is in place.

Better yet. Even sans the two to one not resent, no harm will result!

many decadesago, kid up the block mfrom us had a nce well used 36 ford coupe. he just a bit older than most of us. He decided to "blow the carbon out of the V8. drpped the to manfolds down from the block Took us for a ride. exhilaratig! Must have been 41 As after 12-7, he and lder brothers igned up with the navy and off to the pacific. fortunately all three retutned, unsczthed.

1 Like

Not really a problem, Max - but without the exhaust fitted; the engine is very LOUD! :slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Guys. So glad I tried this. It sounds Sensational. Truly Amazing amazing sound. street legal AMGs got nothing on this thing…

Ok so overnight sitting with water everything seems to be leak free. Had no water on the floor. I ran it for a couple minutes and let the water out. I had to repeat this process a few times because the water comming out was pretty rusty and brown. I wanted to give the new coolant the best possible start…

Now, time for fresh coolant! Hopefully there will be no more leaks in the future.

1 Like

Something funny is happening with my fuel system. Remember I had a fuel delivery problem? and then I had it again? well guess what I had today… So what I found is that over time after sitting for a few months without running the pump runs dry. Once the pump is dry it will not start running until I get the hose off and dump some fuel into the exit side of the pump. Once I did that she came to life and all was good. Similar with the return fuel pressure valve. It looses it’s functionality if I leave it without use for a while. I would suspect this with dirty fuel but really the fuel is in great condition. Once she runs for a while all is good. I guess a good solution would be to start driving the car! But after 1.5 years I am still not there!

Obviously the pump needs to be primed, if it’s dry it can’t pull new fuel in. As soon as it’s wet it seals up and sucks in fuel.

Now why the thing runs dry while it’s at a low point in the system I don’t know. Maybe prime it every month or so from now on.

Don’t see why the regulator would go out.

Pretty much been my experience too: I finally had to give up and just buy a whole new radiator for my RV, because no shops around can really do a recore.

That’ll set me back almost 1000 bucks.

yea. if didn’t have the parts car that problem would have been mine too. My original radiator was shot as well. To bad that nobody fixes things around here any more. At least not for reasonable prices.

Yea specially with a full Tank! Do not get that either. At least I know what the problem is. It’s a quick fix but it’s a mess every time I disconnect the hoses.

Yea its really helpful that I sort of have a pressure gauge permanently installed at the cold start injector…Might leave it there.

**
With fuel in the tanks, Max; the pump is always full of fuel. And in principle, with fuel available, the pump is self-priming - having to prime the pump as you describe means something is wrong.

If the pump is dry; it means fuel is not reaching it from the tanks; blocked tank filters, hoses or changeover valve. There is a contradiction here; fuel spills when disconnecting hose means there is fuel - and priming is at best superfluous. In theory; if the changeover valve is clogged; there should be no fuel spill when disconnecting the pump hose. Subsidiary; one tank is empty and selected - no fuel passes through to the pump.

In short; priming is unnecessary as long as the set-up is working as it should and there is fuel in the tanks - no matter how long the engine is standing…

The pressure regulator is either working correctly or it has failed - how long it is standing is immaterial…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

Yea you guys are right. It was late last night. So there is fuel from the tanks. That’s what makes the mess when I disconnect the hoses… I tried blowing into the pump in flow direction and it was impossible. The exit side was dry. So I put a different hose on it and after pouring some fuel into that side with a syringe. I then put that hose into the filler cap of the tank. Gave the pump some Voltage and it started working. I suppose the easy fix is to just turn the key every other week with the transmission in gear. It will run the pump and build up pressure. But it is a little odd. I would guess the problem is the pump even though it is new. Well at this point when I say new it is over a year old!

1 Like

Also I installed the 3d printed part onto the TB spindle. Fit like a glove. Perfect.

2 Likes

I agree with Frank, there is something amiss there Max.
Never had a problem with the pump not priming, even with just 5lt of fuel in the tank.
Either a blockage before the pump, either a bad pump.
You say the pump is new, but what kind ? Bosch, aftermarket, quality or el-cheapo Bosch reproductions?
Got an el-cheapo one time, lasted for a year before it started making a racket of a noise.

You would be not able to blow through the pump as it has a check valve, that might also get stuck as some are not designed for Ethanol and all the rubber parts swell.

It is an el chepo something…The pump out of the parts car also works but has the wrong size inlet. It is much smaller. So unless I find an adapter that one wont work. The original Bosh out of mine is broken.

Why the discussion now? Just don’t let it dry out again. If there was a leak you or the Russian should have been able to smell it.

1 Like