[xj] steering rack?

Only if the level in the pump drops much over a week of use. C’mon, these
cats need to have something to mark with.
;]–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

chris87 wrote:

In reply to a message from A. Cannara sent Tue 15 Jul 2008:

Any thoughts on whether fluid in the steering rack bellows is a
sure sign of rack rebuild time?

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chris87 wrote:

In reply to a message from A. Cannara sent Tue 15 Jul 2008:

I tried doing the calculation of tire diameter multiplied by 25.4 =
rim diameter in mm.(381)
multiplied by pi(3.14) to get circumfrence in mm…(1196.34)
divided by 360 to get mm per degree.(3.3231)
then divide toe mm (3)by the mm/degree result(3.3231) to get toe in
decimal degrees(1.107).
I think it’s right if I did the math right.
I will have to check number of shims in the A.M.
So if you just relocate shims to adjust caster,correct me if I’m
wrong here but,there should be no need for more shims unless a PO
removed some ignorantly right?

Dead right, Chris - and your pure mathematic is faultless. However; you
have to divide by 2 as the 3mm is the combination of both wheels - the
angle is nominally measured on each wheel. Strange that the shop hasn’t
got the necessary conversion table - so you should also compute the
tolrances for them…:slight_smile:

PO actions is as usual the unknown, but also; wear, sag or violence may
abnormal shim settings - though uncommon for caster. It’s part of the
shop alignment work to verify that the front end is ‘normal’, and
particularely that there is no slack - which may render readings and
adjustments rather wasted. Good shops will not waste time and money
adjusting a suspension with play…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)===================================================
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In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Tue 15 Jul 2008:

thanks everyone for your help,I’ll get this right if it’s the last
thing I do…I’ll be taking my biannual trip down to South Carolina
soon (about 900 miles from Boston)and want to be sure my front end
is stable.

Chris–
The original message included these comments:

Dead right, Chris - and your pure mathematic is faultless. However; you
have to divide by 2 as the 3mm is the combination of both wheels - the
angle is nominally measured on each wheel. Strange that the shop hasn’t
got the necessary conversion table - so you should also compute the
tolrances for them…:slight_smile:


chris87
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In reply to a message from chris87 sent Tue 15 Jul 2008:

Chris here’s my ten cents worth. I’ve never come across a wheel
alignment machine that couldn’t give a toe in reading in
millimetres (or the imperial equivelant).

You shouldn’t need to find new caster shims. There should be four
on each side between the top ball joint and the wishbone. They will
probably be in front of the ball joint (or perhaps three of them
will be and one behind). If some are missing, you could get them
from a breakers yard, but any suspension shop worth it’s name
should have generic ones in stock. You can use a washer instead,
it’s just that you have to withdraw the bolt to fit it, whereas the
shims are open on one side like a ‘‘U’’ for ease of fitting. From
memory the shims are 1.6 mm thick each, but you could check one
that’s in the car.

I have a belief that it’s hard to get a good wheel alignment job
from a shop that doesn’t specialise in suspension work. You can’t
tell with sufficient accuracy from the seat of your pants,
measuring across the tyres with a tape measure, low cost alignment
equipment or anything less than a proper job. The cost easily
repays itself in both driving pleasure and reduced tyre wear, and
should be redone annualy (about $50 - $70 here). If you go into a
repair shop and tell them what the problem is, and what you want
done, and don’t get an intelligent response just leave and go
somewhere else.

In this country cars are required to have an independant safety
inspection every six or twelve months depending on the age of the
car. Oil in the rack boots (if detected) means automatic failure.
You decide. Does the steering feel ‘‘lumpy’’ when you turn corners?
Suspension faults tend to creep up on us and we automatically
adjust our responses to accomodate them. Often it’s only when some
one else drives our car, or we drive another that realisation sets
in, and as someone else has stated, if there’s a suspension fault,
like a worn ball joint, you will never get a proper alignment
result. The shop should check all this before starting.

Wheh! That’s enough rant for today.–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Frank Andersen sent Tue 15 Jul 2008:
thanks everyone for your help,I’ll get this right if it’s the last
thing I do…I’ll be taking my biannual trip down to South Carolina
soon (about 900 miles from Boston)and want to be sure my front end
is stable.


Neville S1 XJ12
Christchurch, New Zealand
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from Nev.W sent Thu 17 Jul 2008:

Nev, your absolutly right,out of 3 shops I have gone to,not one
seemed to know more than I,(or I should say you guy’s).I’ts
unbelievable,they just adjust tie rod ends and tell you '‘I could
only get it this close’'or something to that effect.Finally I took
manuel to the shop and showed the tech the data and after one hour
he came out with close specs;
Left Front;camber;0.6 dgrees negative.
caster;1.8 deg. positive.
toe;0.55 pos.
right front;camber;0.3 neg.
caster;2.3 pos.
toe;0.55 pos.
total toe in;1.09 pos.
I cannot understand why they cannot get it perfect.the one thing I
can see is that the caster on the front right needs to come down to
match(or get a little closer to) the left.I think then it would be
acceptable, yes?..I also refitted the end link bushings again to be
sure I did not torque them down without lowering the the car first.
the handling is much better now but I cannot know whether it was
the alignment or the sway bar endlinks that caused the initial
problem.
oh well,at least it is better.before I travel any distance I am
going to find a shop that specializes in suspension work and have
them check it out.
thanks again to everyone for their help and insight.
As far as the oil in the rack boots,it reads in book ten that the
later models were factory installed with a lubricating oil that
should not be confused with power steering fluid and should have a
little in the boots (which is the case for mine),maybe someone else
can confirm and elaborate on this further since it is of obvious
concern.Also,the level of power steering fluid has not lowered
since I have owned the car,never had to top off yet,which tends to
make me believe the rack is NOT leaking.

Chris
87 xj6
black with wires–
The original message included these comments:

memory the shims are 1.6 mm thick each, but you could check one
that’s in the car.
I have a belief that it’s hard to get a good wheel alignment job
from a shop that doesn’t specialise in suspension work. You can’t
car. Oil in the rack boots (if detected) means automatic failure.
You decide. Does the steering feel ‘‘lumpy’’ when you turn corners?
Suspension faults tend to creep up on us and we automatically
Neville S1 XJ12


chris87
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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By the way, some folks set caster differently per side to correct for road
crowning, if that’s a frequent driving condition.

Personally, I’ve never checked alignment, just watched tire wear and steering
feel & tracking.–
Alex
79xj6L SII (BRG + wires)
86xj6 SIII (Black)
61 Sprite MkII (Red)
Menlo Park, Calif.

chris87 wrote:

In reply to a message from Nev.W sent Thu 17 Jul 2008:

Nev, your absolutly right,out of 3 shops I have gone to,not one
seemed to know more than I,(or I should say you guy’s).I’ts
unbelievable,they just adjust tie rod ends and tell you '‘I could
only get it this close’'or something to that effect.Finally I took
manuel to the shop and showed the tech the data and after one hour
he came out with close specs;
Left Front;camber;0.6 dgrees negative.
caster;1.8 deg. positive.
toe;0.55 pos.
right front;camber;0.3 neg.
caster;2.3 pos.
toe;0.55 pos.
total toe in;1.09 pos.
I cannot understand why they cannot get it perfect.the one thing I
can see is that the caster on the front right needs to come down to
match(or get a little closer to) the left.I think then it would be
acceptable, yes?..I also refitted the end link bushings again to be
sure I did not torque them down without lowering the the car first.
the handling is much better now but I cannot know whether it was
the alignment or the sway bar endlinks that caused the initial
problem.

===================================================
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In reply to a message from A. Cannara sent Thu 17 Jul 2008:

Good work Chris. Youre getting closer to the mark now. I wouldn’t
worry too much about the caster difference. As Alex rightly points
out, a little more caster on the R/H front offsets the camber on
the road surface - depending how heavilly the roads are cambered in
your area - Even with the front end properly aligned the car will
tend to drift towards the side of the road because of the road
camber.

You will find the car will steer better yet if the caster were
increased on both sides, but I wouldn’t make a big deal about it if
you feel the car is driving nicely now.

Just be aware that if the alignment shop is having difficulty
getting repeatable results it could point to wear in the
suspension. (Or maybe they just don’t know what they are doing)
Regards–
The original message included these comments:

Nev, your absolutly right,out of 3 shops I have gone to,not one
seemed to know more than I,(or I should say you guy’s).I’ts
unbelievable,they just adjust tie rod ends and tell you '‘I could
only get it this close’'or something to that effect.Finally I took
manuel to the shop and showed the tech the data and after one hour
he came out with close specs;
I cannot understand why they cannot get it perfect.the one thing I
can see is that the caster on the front right needs to come down to
match(or get a little closer to) the left.I think then it would be
acceptable, yes?..I also refitted the end link bushings again to be


Neville S1 XJ12
Christchurch, New Zealand
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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