[xj40] power steering/hmso leak

XJ40
1

Spent yesterday doing some basic maintenance on my new purchase(a
1990 XJ6 Sovereign w/120,000 miles).

The car is leaks oil from the POWER STEERING/HSMO reservoir.I
cleaned the tank off and filled(took 3/4 of bottle of Castrol HSMO)
yesterday and can feel the oil is back on the underside of the
tank.It ends up on the ground just behind the RHS of the front
bumper as a light brown/yellowish patch and since the mineral oil I
put in was green and the back end doesn’t rise on start-up I
wondered whether or not the self-levelling rear end is no longer in
operation.There is very little oil/build-up anywhere on topside of
engine…just about an inch or so on all the hoses/pipes going into
and out of the reservoir.The rearmost retaining bolt for the
reservoir is sheared off but the metal sleeve and rubber shock are
still in place.

In reading the archives I became confused with the pre and post’90
models and exactly what indicates removal of the SLS in a 1990.
If anyone can look at fig 10.10a/b in the Haynes manual I can
confirm that the hyraulic line that was attached to port with the
arrow pointing at it has been disconnected and is just hanging
there unattached.
I also looked under the right rear wheel and saw an aluminum block
with a (5-pin)male connector integrated into it but nothing
attached and no silicone as per fig 10.6a in Haynes,if this is
indeed the ride height sensor.

If I drain the tank is it safe to undo the hoses to check for leaks
without worrying about pressure?

Is it safe to drill out whats left and put a hole through the
wheelwell for a new nut and bolt?

Is an engine degreaser OK to use to remove the gunk that has
accumulated (mostly) on the underside of the right front from the
leak?–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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2

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Wed 1 Dec 2004:

Jack,

First off, referring to Haynes illustration 10.10b, if that pipe
has been disconnected, there should be a blank plug in that hole in
the Girling valve block. Normally you would use the bleed nipple
taken from the pipe junction on the underside of the body, just
forward the rear left wheel as (poorly) shown in Haynes
illustration 10.2a & b.

Since your car is a '90, it has the Teves brake system, so, if your
SLS has been converted to standard rear suspension you are now in
the wonderful position of being able to remove all of the redundant
power hydraulics stuff you no longer need.

You need a ‘conversion kit’ which comprises a single hose to go
from the HSMO reservoir direct to the power steering pump, a
blanking plate for the engine driven hydraulic pump drive on the
front timing cover and three shorter screws to hold it on.

[The Jag part numbers are :- Blanking plate : EAC3977, Hose:
CBC6297, Screws: FS108201J (but you may need to shorten them a
little more)]

You can then remove completely the engine driven hydraulic pump,
the Girling valve block, the ‘Y’ hose which currently feeds both
the engine driven hydraulic pump and the power steering pump, the
return line from the power hydraulics system to the HSMO reservoir
(and block of the spigot on the reservoir) and all of the other
hydraulic lines attached to the Girling valve block.

Additionally, to complete the job, you can remove the metal
hydraulic line which runs under the floor and across the body in
front of the rear axle, the ride height sensor attached to the rear
right wheelwell (and seal the connector with silicone!) and the
ride height relay which is in the group at the top front right
corner of the trunk behind the carpeted trim / spare wheel.

You are left with the HSMO reservoir feeding the power steering
pump only with the single return hose from the radiator cooling for
the P/S fluid. If you wish, you can then drain and flush out (with
ATF) the HSMO from the power steering system and fill the reservoir
with ATF.

I imagine any good detergent (Simply Green?) cleaner will remove
the HSMO deposits from the inner wing valance - but do not use a
strong water jet which may get amongst the electrics and cause
further problems.

When the engine is not running and no SLS, there is no pressure in
that system. Isn’t the reservoir held on by captive studs? If one
is broken and you do drill it out, you should bolt through from the
wing with large washers under the head and the nut and then affix
the reservoir with an additional nut - and really underseal it
well otherwise the wing will quickly rot.–
The original message included these comments:

The car is leaks oil from the POWER STEERING/HSMO reservoir.I
If anyone can look at fig 10.10a/b in the Haynes manual I can
confirm that the hyraulic line that was attached to port with the
arrow pointing at it has been disconnected and is just hanging
there unattached.
If I drain the tank is it safe to undo the hoses to check for leaks
without worrying about pressure?
Is it safe to drill out whats left and put a hole through the
wheelwell for a new nut and bolt?
Is an engine degreaser OK to use to remove the gunk that has
accumulated (mostly) on the underside of the right front from the

–
Bryan N ('91 Sovereign 4.0 L)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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3

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 1 Dec 2004:

Bryan,

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I will find time to go and check those items today.

I’m still a bit confused as to the conversion itself…does that
refer just to the stuff you mentioned or does it actually involve
having to replace the rear suspension components also? I guess what
I mean is are the same springs etc… used or do they have to be
replaced also?

Thanks:)–
The original message included these comments:

Since your car is a '90, it has the Teves brake system, so, if your
SLS has been converted to standard rear suspension you are now in
the wonderful position of being able to remove all of the redundant
power hydraulics stuff you no longer need.
You need a ‘conversion kit’ which comprises a single hose to go
from the HSMO reservoir direct to the power steering pump, a
blanking plate for the engine driven hydraulic pump drive on the
front timing cover and three shorter screws to hold it on.

–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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4

Jack
You need to replace the rear damper assemblies too. They are entirely
different. Do not allow anyone tell you that the springs are the same, they
are not!
We have heard many a tale on the forum over the years where a conversion has
been made and the original springs used. they are
a) Shorter so your car sits too low at the back
b) Weaker, so your car sits lower at the back (!) and will not ride
correctly

Phil

Find us at
http://www.xjjaguar.co.uk/
Call (+44) 01323 740471 or (+44) 07745 713940 ( 0900-1800 GMT ONLY)

From: “thistle4celt” chestnut_colt1@hotmail.com
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj40] power steering/hmso leak
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 21:27:00 +0100

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 1 Dec 2004:

Bryan,

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I will find time to go and check those items today.

I’m still a bit confused as to the conversion itself…does that
refer just to the stuff you mentioned or does it actually involve
having to replace the rear suspension components also? I guess what
I mean is are the same springs etc… used or do they have to be
replaced also?

Thanks:)

–
The original message included these comments:

Since your car is a '90, it has the Teves brake system, so, if your
SLS has been converted to standard rear suspension you are now in
the wonderful position of being able to remove all of the redundant
power hydraulics stuff you no longer need.
You need a ‘conversion kit’ which comprises a single hose to go
from the HSMO reservoir direct to the power steering pump, a
blanking plate for the engine driven hydraulic pump drive on the
front timing cover and three shorter screws to hold it on.

–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On
Line Books and more !

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5

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Thu 2 Dec 2004:

Jack,

I had assumed from your earlier post that since the hydraulic line
to the rear suspension and the ride height sensor at the right rear
wheel arch had been disconnected and you described the quality of
the ride, that your car had been converted to standard rear
suspension.

If you still had the SLS rear struts fitted to your car with the
hydraulics disconnected, the ride would be terrible because you
would have no damping and the rear of the car would sag very
noticeably!

To convert the rear suspension alone from SLS to standard, you need
to replace the SLS struts with new standard shocks and longer
springs. What I was describing was removing the rest of the power
hydraulics stuff after the SLS rear struts had been replaced
because on a '90 + car with the Teves brake boost system, you no
longer need the power hydraulics.–
The original message included these comments:

I’m still a bit confused as to the conversion itself…does that
refer just to the stuff you mentioned or does it actually involve
having to replace the rear suspension components also? I guess what
I mean is are the same springs etc… used or do they have to be
replaced also?

Since your car is a '90, it has the Teves brake system, so, if your
SLS has been converted to standard rear suspension you are now in
the wonderful position of being able to remove all of the redundant
power hydraulics stuff you no longer need.

–
Bryan N ('91 Sovereign 4.0 L)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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6

In reply to a message from Phil Parrington sent Thu 2 Dec 2004:

Thanks Phil,

You guys are great and very patient with a novice like myself:)

So,in response,if the car looks like it’s at the right height and
rides very smoothly is it possible a PO replaced the
springs/dampers and disconnected the lines,electrical etc… but
didn’t complete all the stuff that Bryan mentioned with regards to
the power steering,pump,hoses etc…?

Thank You very much–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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7

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 1 Dec 2004:

Thanks for all the help guys…

I am still trying to locate the blanking plate,hose and screws and
can’t find them anywhere.
Can anyone give me a link to an online supplier.It would be greatly
appreciated Thanks again.

Jack–
The original message included these comments:

[The Jag part numbers are :- Blanking plate : EAC3977, Hose:
CBC6297, Screws: FS108201J (but you may need to shorten them a
little more)]

–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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8

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Tue 7 Dec 2004:

Instead of purchasing a blanking plate, could you remove the front
pump, plug the inlet and outlet holes, and reinstall the pump
without the dog?–
The original message included these comments:

I am still trying to locate the blanking plate,hose and screws and
can’t find them anywhere.
Can anyone give me a link to an online supplier.It would be greatly
appreciated Thanks again.

–
uncle
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9

I bought the hose and blanking plate from the dealer. The screws you can get
anywhere.

You can try the online suppliers listed at our club site www.jcoh.cc under
Parts & Service. Dave Lokensgard posted a really helpful procedure for the
conversion a few years back. I imagine you can find it on the old “Modern”
archive if you need it.

David Hurlston
ViaData LP-----Original Message-----

I am still trying to locate the blanking plate,hose and screws and
can’t find them anywhere.
Can anyone give me a link to an online supplier.It would be greatly
appreciated Thanks again.

Jack

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10

I wouldn’t do that. The pump would be running without lubrication.

David Hurlston
ViaData LP-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xj40@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xj40@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf
Of uncle
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:50 PM
To: xj40@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj40] power steering/hmso leak

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Tue 7 Dec 2004:

Instead of purchasing a blanking plate, could you remove the front
pump, plug the inlet and outlet holes, and reinstall the pump
without the dog?

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11

In a message dated 12/7/2004 3:14:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, “David Hurlston” dhurlston@viadata.com writes:

I wouldn’t do that. �The pump would be running without lubrication.

Instead of purchasing a blanking plate, could you remove the front
pump, plug the inlet and outlet holes, and reinstall the pump
without the dog?

What Uncle was suggesting to do was to remove the dog so the pump is no longer mechanically connected to the timing chain jack shaft (doesn’t turn) and basically just use the pump body as a blanking plate, which should work just fine.

George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP

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12

In reply to a message from uncle sent Tue 7 Dec 2004:

Doug,

Even when you remove the drive dog coupling, the prongs of the
accessory drive on the engine will foul the prongs on the pump, so
as Dave says, you are still driving the pump (it would rattle a
bit!) - and without oil passing through it, that could get nasty.

The blanking plate is no big deal anyway, it’s not sealing any oil
in - that area is a ‘dry zone’ so all you need to do is keep dirt
out. A simple flat alloy plate will suffice.

The hose is the important thing - but even that may be
available ‘off the roll’ in some of the hydraulic places.

Having said that, the whole caboodle was so inexpensive I bought
mine under the Jaguar numbers direct from an independant Jag spares
outlet (in the UK of course).–
The original message included these comments:

Instead of purchasing a blanking plate, could you remove the front
pump, plug the inlet and outlet holes, and reinstall the pump
without the dog?

–
Bryan N ('91 Sovereign 4.0 L)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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13

There is info on removal of the self-leveling pump for '90 and later cars in
the archives; see

http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/archives/modern/200004/msg00359.html

and

http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/archives/modern/200008/msg00448.html

Dave Lokensgard
'96 XJR (DAVZCAT)
'90 Sovereign (MELZKAT)
'90 Vanden Plas Majestic (PATZCAT)
'55 XK140 OTS
Poway, California

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14

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Tue 7 Dec 2004:

Thanks for the clarification.

Shortly before I sold the XJ40, my next project was to remove all
of the remaining SLS components, inlcuding the Y-Pipe, Front pump,
valve block, etc.

At that time, I know that Coventry West had a good offering in the
way of blanking plates and hoses. So, if the dealer does not have
these, CW does.

Also,if you do this, be carefull when you remove the hoses from the
reservoir, the nipples can break off easily.–
The original message included these comments:

Even when you remove the drive dog coupling, the prongs of the
accessory drive on the engine will foul the prongs on the pump, so
as Dave says, you are still driving the pump (it would rattle a
bit!) - and without oil passing through it, that could get nasty.
The blanking plate is no big deal anyway, it’s not sealing any oil
in - that area is a ‘dry zone’ so all you need to do is keep dirt

–
uncle
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15

In reply to a message from uncle sent Wed 8 Dec 2004:

A BIG Thank You to all for the advice and info.Hopefully I can get
the hose replaced this weekend.–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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16

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Wed 8 Dec 2004:

Update::::::

Finally got the parts from dealer(had to order as they said it’s
been 3 years since the last one they did).
So after a few cuts and scratches(and cuss words)and an aching
back,6 hours later…done…not bad for a rookie LOL

Just a couple of things I wasn’t sure about but seems what I did
was OK…

1)There was only mineral oil in system…now a mixture of DextronIII
and HSMO
2)I reattached a short piece of hose to open (return) spigot on
reservoir and stuck a bolt in the end and clamped it.
3)Used a heavy sheet metal screw to attach loose end(nearest
firewall)of reservoir.
4) I re-installed the bracket(with shock absorber)that the A/C hose
clamps too.I just cut the hose off on both sides of the bracket.

Observations…

I assume the ‘‘groaning’’ sounds when turning wheel was normal as it
disappeared after topping up fluid and turning steering wheel side
to side quite a few times.

Many air bubbles in tank when first started engine but they also
disappeared…as system filled up I guess.

Next time I think I’d remove the top radiator hose to help avoid
using the cuss words.

I had to ‘‘tie-back’’ the new P/S hose just a bit to avoid it rubbing
on the edge of the above mentioned bracket.

Once again…Thanks to all for their advice and links and info they
posted on this subject.You guys are great!!!

Jack–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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17

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Sat 18 Dec 2004:

Is this really a problem as someone e-mailed to say it is as they
cannot be mixed?

I’m sure I read in archives it was OK to do this.

Sorry for resurrecting this…but now I’m worried in case I mis
understood

Thanks y’all–
The original message included these comments:

1)There was only mineral oil in system…now a mixture of DextronIII
and HSMO

–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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18

Jack wrote:

Is this really a problem as someone e-mailed to say it is as they
cannot be mixed?

I’m sure I read in archives it was OK to do this.

Sorry for resurrecting this…but now I’m worried in case I mis
understood

Thanks y’all

The original message included these comments:

1)There was only mineral oil in system…now a mixture of DextronIII
and HSMO

I don’t think it should cause a problem, since the rear self-leveling
suspension has been removed. I don’t see why the power steering pump and
rack would be harmed by the mixture of oils.

Dave Lokensgard
'96 XJR (DAVZCAT)
'90 Sovereign (MELZKAT)
'90 Vanden Plas Majestic (PATZCAT)
'55 XK140 OTS
Poway, California

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19

In reply to a message from thistle4celt sent Sun 19 Dec 2004:

Jack,

I believe the situation to be thus:-

  • If you have a separate reservoir serving the power steering only,
    you may use ATF or HSMO (but why anyone would want to do the latter
    I don’t know). There is no difference in the power steering pump or
    steering rack whichever fluid is used.
  • If you have a reservoir serving only the power hydraulics for
    brake boost AND a working SLS, (pre-'90 cars) you must use HSMO.
  • If your car uses a common reservoir for the power hydraulics AND
    the power steering AND a working SLS, you must use HSMO
  • If, on a Teves equipped ('90 +) car, you have removed the SLS and
    the power hydraulics hardware, you can use HSMO or ATF to feed the
    power steering only. Since you’ve removed 99% of the areas which
    may cause a leak, there is no hardship to continue to use HSMO in
    this case - that’s what I do on my car.

The only grey area in my mind is what would happen if you used ATF
in a car where the SLS had been removed but where the power
hydraulics must be maintained for brake boost only (i.e pre-'90,
non-Teves equipped cars) and which previously used HSMO. Presumably
the engine driven hydraulic pump wouldn’t be affected, but would
the Girling valve block / brake accumulator handle ATF without any
problems?

[I know that BMW specify different accumulator spheres depending on the type of fluid used - perhaps that’s an issue with our Jaguars too]

Others may have a different view!–
The original message included these comments:

Is this really a problem as someone e-mailed to say it is as they
cannot be mixed?
I’m sure I read in archives it was OK to do this.
Sorry for resurrecting this…but now I’m worried in case I mis
understood
The original message included these comments:

1)There was only mineral oil in system…now a mixture of DextronIII
and HSMO

–
Bryan N ('91 Sovereign 4.0 L)
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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20

In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Sun 19 Dec 2004:

Dave and Bryan,

Thanks for the clarification AND all the other information you guys
pass along.It really is appreciated.

Jack–
Jack(Oakland,CA) 1990 XJ40
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