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Paul’s remark is pertinent, Don - the AAV is equally suspect. AAAv working correctly; the cold idle should be 200 to 400 rpms higher than hot set idle - if not, engine will have cold start issues.
Again remember that the CSI only sprays once - the ThermoTime requires time to reset, at least a minute or more. Repeat cranking will not activate the CSI until reset - so repeated cranking has no CSI effect. It is also relevant; as said before the TT functions should also be tested in addition to actual testing CSI spraying. And AAV function likewise to be checked out with cold start problems - in addition to verifying throttle gap, cleaning throttle body and verify idle setting…
And I think it should be clarified that the CSI is there to make cold starting easier. It has nothing to do with cold running. Once the key is released from the “Start” position the CSI circuit is out of the picture entirely.
In mild ambient conditions a dead CSI might hardly be noticed, if at all; a couple extra spins of the starter might be required. I once discovered my CSI was dead…and had no idea how long it had been inoperative. That was in the spring. In the dead of winter I probably would’ve realized something was amiss.
OMG Doug! Exactly what I need! I’ll report here what I find out. First I need to get my hands dirty, eat a bowl of Wheaties, take a Celebrex for my bad back and hope I have the necessary arm strength to get that injector out. (I’m 75 and not nearly as strong as I’ve always been.)
Don,
I recommend that you depressurize the fuel rail before removing the CSI and also have some rags handy as fuel will come out of that CSI hose when you remove it.
Depressurize by tripping the safety switch (A pillar left side, the plunger on top of the box inside the cabin) and then cranking the engine; it may start and die as soon as all the remaining fuel pressure has been sprayed out.
I made new gaskets or just used foam tape, main thing is that it has to be airtight again… in my experience a failed CSI can’t be saved. But this doesn’t really sound like a CSI issue even if it is bad, which is not unlikely.
David, Max,
As mentioned further up in this string, I had some minor succeses if freeing up stuck Cold Start Injectors by soaking them for weeks in fuel injector cleaner and alternating that with an ultrasonic bath. I may have restored 2 or possibly 3 that way. But most of the ones that I got from several spare XK engine or my three parts cars were stuck for good and I could not get them to work properly.
I cut one of them apart and came to the conclusion that it was positively unfixable. I think that they are constructed in a way that does not allow any fluids into the area that jams when the injector stops working. Maybe a few more hours in the ultrasonic bath or a lot of pressure could have helped.
We could look for a readily available economical replacement that would work and then design and print a adapter for it to fit the intake housing. If it works we could have a bunch printed out of aluminum. Would only make sense if enough people have this problem.
My Series III XJ6 needs a new cold start injector. The CSI is getting a signal but is not working. Based on reading the forums, cleaning and/or servicing these is not likely to be a viable option. I’ve done some quick research and these are not easy to find at a good price, but here are two options and I’d love some commentary from you – the experts.
Bottom line, $300 for NOS or $196 for used.
If the used option, take a quick look at the ebay auction for the used one, and why are they also selling a pigtail connector? I think I just need to remove mine and replace it.
You ‘think’ right, Matt - it should be a plug and play item.
The ‘pig-tail’ reference may just be that it comes with the plug-in wire attached? Or that it requires a different wiring in other vehicles mentioned. Note the difference in code number…
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thank you for 20 character min 
