[xk] Good essay

XK
1

Gentle listers and fellow addicts, My son (who does not do any work on
cars - could he have been switched at birth?) sent this to me. He is a
writer, studied philosophy in college, reads voraciously and
appreciates the craft of this fellow. So do I and, I’ll wager, so will
you.

This is an elegant exposition of what we do with our old machines and
our lives. It will be very familiar to most of you and not so much to
some. Those ‘some’ might feel differently about immersing themselves
in the ‘zen’ of this addiction we have after reading it. The rest of
us will fell kindred spirit with him and all like us who, in the end,
perform labors of love all the time.

I am sending this to the two other lists I am on - the E-Type list and
the X300 one.

Enjoy.

Best regards, Brian

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine/24labor-t.html?ref=books

2

Brian that is a very good explanation of why I do it. Today the enjoyment
has gone with all this modern electronic control which takes away the tuners
ability to “adjust”. I wish I could only work on cars with distributors and
carbies. I am trying to.
Peter Hitchin

3

Peter H;
I agree.I wouldn’t want to do anything else except be a mechanic!
When all the Emissions crap, electronic ignition and other “electronic”
junk started “invading” the world of mechanics, and the “think-tank gophers
in the cubicles” decided that the term “mechanic” was not “PC” and changed
the title to “Technician” (aka “Parts Changer”), I left the “ball & chain”
of being a dealership “Heavy Line Mechanic” and started working on “old
cars”… this morphed into doing “Frame Up Restorations”… Other than the
crapped-out body (mine, from ten years of motorcycle racing), I’ve never
regretted it… The only “regret” is that I didn’t start earlier!!

Brian;
Appreciate you sending that great “tellin’ it like it is” article to the
list.
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “ES-CAR-GO - Peter Hitchin”

Brian that is a very good explanation of why I do it. Today the enjoyment
has gone with all this modern electronic control which takes away the
tuners
ability to “adjust”. I wish I could only work on cars with distributors
and
carbies. I am trying to.
Peter Hitchin

4

In reply to a message from Brian Ternamian sent Thu 28 May 2009:

Brian
When I was in junior high school way back in the early
1960s, every male student took a mandatory course they
called Manual Training. Female students took Home Economics.

One full afternoon every week we were taught woodworking and
metal working, and got to make useful projects such as
boxes, knife holders, picture frames,electric lamps, and
ashtrays. Yes, ashtrays. Each project was evaluated and graded.

Shop safety was constantly taught and strictly enforced. The
machines could all be safely operated if we followed the
various procedures we were taught. Every student (except for
one classmate, John) really seemed to enjoy learning how to
begin to use measuring tools, metal shears, brakes, wood and
metal lathes, soldering irons, planes, how to sand paint and
varnish the things we had made.
‘‘Heat it, beat it, and paint it black’’ was one metalworking
instructor’s favorite saying.
Arc welding was quite frightening to us, everyone was afraid
of getting electrocuted. They even taught us how to anneal
aluminum before trying to form it into the things we made.
The wood lathe seemed to be regarded by the instructors as
the most dangerous machine of all, we could only use it
under direct hawk-like supervision by the woodworking
instructor.

Later on, the name of the course was changed to Industrial
Arts. Eventually, I am not sure when, the whole manual
training course, along with Home Ec, was canceled.
I wonder what ever happened to all those tools and machines.

Anyhow, John did not enjoy the manual training course at
all, right from the beginning. No one blamed him for not
enjoying the manual training very much though, because of
what happened to him one afternoon when we were all around
12 years old, in grade 7.
On one of the very first days of the manual training course,
the metalworking instructor decided to demonstrate the
safety of the arc welder, in response to a question from one
of us about what would happen to us if we somehow
accidentally got electrocuted. The instructor brought us
all to the welding area and demonstrated and explained the
various parts of the arc welder. Then he randomly selected
one of us, John, and told him to hold the ground electrode
in one hand and hold the stick electrode in his other hand.
John innocently held both electrodes as everyone looked on.

Then the instructor turned on the welder! ZAP!!
Poor John leaped up in the air, came down and dropped the
electrodes, and almost started crying. Everyone (except the
instructor) stood there astounded, completely silent,
frightened to even move, staring at John.

Luckily John wasnt hurt at all, and the vivid demonstration
of the non lethality of the welder (which the instructor
apparently performed every year to all new students) was a
success.

A completely different kind of society back then, no one
thought it was at all unusual for 12 year olds to make
ashtrays in school. Guys could not elect to take Home Ec,
girls could not sign up for Manual Training.–
Gary Grant S818919DN
Ottawa, Canada
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5

Wonderful article and very well written.
Thanks for sending it over.
Best,
Knight----- Original Message -----
From: “Brian Ternamian” alphajag@att.net
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 3:55 PM
Subject: [xk] Good essay

Gentle listers and fellow addicts, My son (who does not do any work on
cars - could he have been switched at birth?) sent this to me. He is a
writer, studied philosophy in college, reads voraciously and
appreciates the craft of this fellow. So do I and, I’ll wager, so will
you.

This is an elegant exposition of what we do with our old machines and
our lives. It will be very familiar to most of you and not so much to
some. Those ‘some’ might feel differently about immersing themselves
in the ‘zen’ of this addiction we have after reading it. The rest of
us will fell kindred spirit with him and all like us who, in the end,
perform labors of love all the time.

I am sending this to the two other lists I am on - the E-Type list and
the X300 one.

Enjoy.

Best regards, Brian

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine/24labor-t.html?ref=books

6

Brian - thanks for calling attention to this article. I read the Times daily
but missed this last Sunday.

Some of my clearest memories from Jr. High are of the “shop” classes.

My brother and I purchased a '52 Mercury Monterrey while in high school and
proceeded to replace the head gaskets with no manual or instructions.

Next was a '39 Plymouth with only 28,000 miles from the proverbial little
old lady first owner - our first project was to find the optional stick
shift from a similar car in a local junk yard and convert ours from the
column shift. We then discovered that the threads on the top of the floor
shift were the same as beer tap handles and accumulated a small collection
of those to use on the car. It was during ownership of this car that I
started working as a mechanic part time during school and full time summers
until I joined the USAF in '61.

Like the author, I went to work in the corporate world (IBM) but I failed to
correct my ways and stayed there for 26 years. But I never stopped being a
mechanic and went through a series of old cars - one or two at a time.
(usually one driver and one to do more serious work on).

Having recently acquired the '79 Triumph Bonneville (with the unexpected
good fortune of having an oil pressure failure resulting in a complete
engine tear-down and rebuild), I have also gained the new experiential
dimension of both riding and working on a bike and now understand why all
bikers wave to each other on the road. It’s amazing.

Reading the article actually brought tears to my eyes a couple of times -
especially the part about the guy leaving the shop on his bike and blipping
the throttle.

Looking back, I think if I had not gotten married while in the AF I would
have gone back to being a real mechanic when I returned to the civilian
world. I wrestled with that decision for quite a while. But I did what I did
and now I read that article and read Charles’ comments and wonder whether I
made the right decision.

But like many other listers out there, I at least have kept one foot, or
part of one foot at least, in the mechanic’s world and I know that the time
I have spent and continue to spend in that world has kept me more sane and
happy than I otherwise would have been. Even right now the knowledge that I
can get up from this chair and walk 30 feet into the garage and just look at
the S3 XJ6 and the 120 and the Bonnie and contemplate what I have done and
what the next tasks are adds a lot of quality to my life - and I also know,
as you all do, that that’s what the connection between all of us on this
list is all about.

So thanks to Matthew Crawford for a great article and thanks to every lister
out there for further enriching this great part of my life.

Bruce Cunningham

7

But I did what I did

and now I read that article and read Charles’ comments and wonder whether
I
made the right decision.

 Bruce C;
We all have "20/20 hindsight"..  I've often wondered "what if" I'd

finished college… Would I have become the next Frank Lloyd Wright? We’ll
never know… But I do know that my “mechanical talent” is, in my opinion, on
par with that of being an emergency room doctor… I have “brought back to
life” a fair quantity of “patients”…
The first “professional mechanic” job I ever applied for was at a small
motorcycle sales, service & rental shop… I was “refered” to the shop by a
friend of one of the owners… To appease his friend, the owner showed me
two Vespa scooters… told me to “take both home, use one for parts, get the
other one running!” And gave me a time period of a couple of days to
accomplish the task… One day later, I had a friend help me ride BOTH
Vespa’s back to the shop… The owner was flabbergasted as their previous
(so-called) mechanic said that both scooters were “write-offs”… Needless
to say, I got the job.
As with any skill, there has to be knowledge! The correct application of
that knowledge, transfered from the brain to the hands, is what creates a
skilled doctor or a skilled mechanic… A major difference between a doctor
and a mechanic is… I can’t overhaul an engine while it’s running, nor
perform said task thru the tail pipe! ;-} But doctors cannot take one or
more dead “patients” and create one “working” one, either… So it’s a
“push”… ;-}
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “Bruce Cunningham”

8

Of course, we all know that, nowadays, all cars are so complicated
that one has to rely on ‘pattern failures’ as the first line of
questioning for a problem. (i.e. an OE too short electric pigtail from
the electrically controlled tranny to the “brain” with added in
bounces from worn mounts and the wire breaks INTERNALLY on the late
model Jag sedans resulting in a screwed up transmission) The real
trick is finding these patterns as they seem to be trade secrets
[forums like these are usually the answer, or you can buy them -
ugh!]. This saves a lot of time chasing a ghost that isn’t there.
Sometimes, perhaps often, these pattern failures defy any logic - any
sense of what we’ve been taught or have come to learn. These kinds of
things have gone on for quite a while, but in “simpler” times the
‘logic tree’ and common sense slathered over with intuition would
ferret the culprit out. There was a identifiable, if not obvious,
cause and effect. Not so today.

In any case, someone mentioned the heady feeling of having
accomplished something real with real time results. That is almost
pure bliss when you get it right. Doesn’t happen all the time, but
often enough to keep you happy. And when it does go wrong, it’s
usually the “nut” behind the wheel. Object lessons abound.

Best, Brian

Cjarles wrote:
" … As with any skill, there has to be knowledge! The correct
application of that knowledge, transfered from the brain to the hands,
is what creates a skilled doctor or a skilled mechanic. … "

9

In reply to a message from Brian Ternamian sent Thu 28 May 2009:

At Purdue in 1958 or so a summer class called IC Engine Lab was
required for mechanical engineering students. The class consisted
of about 20 students working in pairs dissembling automobile
engines, describing and drawing the various systems…carburation,
lubrication, cooling, electrical. After two weeks of this, one day
we were told to reassemble the engines and make them run. It was a
race to see who could fire their’s off first.

Fast forward 50 years, my rebuilt XK 120 engine fired off and ran
on a test stand after sitting idle for for nearly 40 years. A reat
feeling. It is now in the FHC which I’m restoring. After 40 some
years working in the corporate setting, working in the garage is
relaxing and satisfying.

Working on the wiring under the bonnet by the firewall about a
month ago, I dropped a small socket. It disappeared somewhere. I’ve
searched to no avail. Did it fall into the bell housing thru the
small hole where we check the timing marks on the flywheel? Before
I fire the engine up again, I’ll do some gentle turns of the engine
before I fire it. I may have to crawl under and remove the metal
plate on the bell housing. Kind of like the feeler gauge in the
motorcycle crank case…we will see.–
JDWilliams S680003FHC
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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10

Hello all - it seems there have been a lot of door questions lately, so I’ll
add one to the mix.

It would seem the bushing in my RH (passenger) door is in need of repair.
(It could be the whole hinge needs repair as I have not taken the hinge off
as of yet).

I have searched the archives, and it looks like a daunting task to get the
hinge off of the body. My question is, how best to get at these hinges.
The four on the door pillar face are obvious, but looking at the photos I
believe there are 4 more behind there somewhere, and these are the tough
ones to get at. How do you get at them? I have not got so far as to take
the interior trim off yet, so maybe it is obvious once this is done but I
thought I’d poll the expertise in the group to get the best way to get at
the beast.

Second question : one of the “usuals” offers a rebuild kit (new bushing) for
the door, where others do not. Has anyone tried these bushing kits and do
they work OK?

Thanks.

Bob
681431-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Brian Ternamian
Sent: May 28, 2009 1:55 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] Good essay

Gentle listers and fellow addicts, My son (who does not do any work on
cars - could he have been switched at birth?) sent this to me. He is a
writer, studied philosophy in college, reads voraciously and
appreciates the craft of this fellow. So do I and, I’ll wager, so will
you.

This is an elegant exposition of what we do with our old machines and
our lives. It will be very familiar to most of you and not so much to
some. Those ‘some’ might feel differently about immersing themselves
in the ‘zen’ of this addiction we have after reading it. The rest of
us will fell kindred spirit with him and all like us who, in the end,
perform labors of love all the time.

I am sending this to the two other lists I am on - the E-Type list and
the X300 one.

Enjoy.

Best regards, Brian

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine/24labor-t.html?ref=books

11

Bob,
Wrey Schelin offers the pins and bushings as a set. I ordered mine from a
different vendor, ( can’t recall which) and ended up having my own machined
and didn’t use the supplier’s since they were not tight enough fit. Of
course, it is not difficult or expensive to have your own fabricated. On the
other hand, I would guess that Wrey Schelin’s would work well since
everything he does seems to be first rate. I used Wrey for several body
panels during my restoration and the work is excellent.
Knight

12

Thanks Knight. Do you have Wrey’s e-mail address?

As a follow-up to my original note, can anyone out there give me some
direction on the best way (i.e. easiest way for us lazy types) of removing
the hinges without taking the front wing off?

Thanks

Bob
681431-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Knight Martorell
Sent: May 31, 2009 8:19 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Bob,
Wrey Schelin offers the pins and bushings as a set. I ordered mine from a
different vendor, ( can’t recall which) and ended up having my own machined
and didn’t use the supplier’s since they were not tight enough fit. Of
course, it is not difficult or expensive to have your own fabricated. On the

other hand, I would guess that Wrey Schelin’s would work well since
everything he does seems to be first rate. I used Wrey for several body
panels during my restoration and the work is excellent.
Knight

13

Bob,
I’m sorry. I do not, but know that someone on the list provided it to
someone in the past.
Anyone have Wrey’s contact info ?
Knight----- Original Message -----
From: “JAGULAR” jagular@accesscomm.ca
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 7:17 PM
Subject: RE: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Thanks Knight. Do you have Wrey’s e-mail address?

As a follow-up to my original note, can anyone out there give me some
direction on the best way (i.e. easiest way for us lazy types) of removing
the hinges without taking the front wing off?

Thanks

Bob
681431

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf
Of
Knight Martorell
Sent: May 31, 2009 8:19 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Bob,
Wrey Schelin offers the pins and bushings as a set. I ordered mine from a
different vendor, ( can’t recall which) and ended up having my own
machined
and didn’t use the supplier’s since they were not tight enough fit. Of
course, it is not difficult or expensive to have your own fabricated. On
the

other hand, I would guess that Wrey Schelin’s would work well since
everything he does seems to be first rate. I used Wrey for several body
panels during my restoration and the work is excellent.
Knight

14

Bob
Try:
16 Duncannon Ave
Worcester, MA 01604
Best
Klaus W. Nielsen
812394
815666BW-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
JAGULAR
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 7:17 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Thanks Knight. Do you have Wrey’s e-mail address?

As a follow-up to my original note, can anyone out there give me some
direction on the best way (i.e. easiest way for us lazy types) of removing
the hinges without taking the front wing off?

Thanks

Bob
681431

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Knight Martorell
Sent: May 31, 2009 8:19 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Bob,
Wrey Schelin offers the pins and bushings as a set. I ordered mine from a
different vendor, ( can’t recall which) and ended up having my own machined
and didn’t use the supplier’s since they were not tight enough fit. Of
course, it is not difficult or expensive to have your own fabricated. On the

other hand, I would guess that Wrey Schelin’s would work well since
everything he does seems to be first rate. I used Wrey for several body
panels during my restoration and the work is excellent.
Knight

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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06:09:00

15

Many thanks Klaus …-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Klaus Nielsen
Sent: June 01, 2009 5:44 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Bob
Try:
16 Duncannon Ave
Worcester, MA 01604
Best
Klaus W. Nielsen
812394
815666BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
JAGULAR
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 7:17 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Thanks Knight. Do you have Wrey’s e-mail address?

As a follow-up to my original note, can anyone out there give me some
direction on the best way (i.e. easiest way for us lazy types) of removing
the hinges without taking the front wing off?

Thanks

Bob
681431

16

Bob;
There is no “easy way” to remove the hinge boxes…
After removal of the doors, one can remove the Hinge Boxes from the area
of what is commonly called the “Kick Panels”… This task is best performed
if ALL the interior is removed. (seats, carpet, gearbox & Propshaft covers.
Remove Gear Shift Lever and steering wheel, as well… You will probably be
laying across the floor.)…
It is a real “stand-on-your-head” job, but it can be done without cutting
off the front wings…
If all goes well, no snags, etc., expect to spend several hours on each
hinge box to remove it! If the Hinge Pivot Bolt and Hinge Arm cannot be
removed (first) from a hinge box, then the time for removal goes up by
days… not hours.
My 120’s body is stripped and on a roticesserie and the Hinge Box Removal
was still a bear!
Best of luck.
Charles #677556.----- Original Message -----
From: “JAGULAR”

As a follow-up to my original note, can anyone out there give me some
direction on the best way (i.e. easiest way for us lazy types) of removing
the hinges without taking the front wing off?

Thanks

Bob
681431

17

Charles … You instil in me a sense of dread (and by the sounds of it
rightfully so). The errant hinge is on the passenger side, so I think I’ll
tackle this side only for now. Thanks for wishing me luck … it sounds
like I will need it! … Bob-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
BISHOP13
Sent: June 01, 2009 11:12 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

Bob;
There is no “easy way” to remove the hinge boxes…
After removal of the doors, one can remove the Hinge Boxes from the area
of what is commonly called the “Kick Panels”… This task is best performed
if ALL the interior is removed. (seats, carpet, gearbox & Propshaft covers.
Remove Gear Shift Lever and steering wheel, as well… You will probably be
laying across the floor.)…
It is a real “stand-on-your-head” job, but it can be done without cutting
off the front wings…
If all goes well, no snags, etc., expect to spend several hours on each
hinge box to remove it! If the Hinge Pivot Bolt and Hinge Arm cannot be
removed (first) from a hinge box, then the time for removal goes up by
days… not hours.
My 120’s body is stripped and on a roticesserie and the Hinge Box Removal
was still a bear!
Best of luck.
Charles #677556.

----- Original Message -----
From: “JAGULAR”

As a follow-up to my original note, can anyone out there give me some
direction on the best way (i.e. easiest way for us lazy types) of removing
the hinges without taking the front wing off?

Thanks

Bob
681431

18

In reply to a message from JAGULAR sent Tue 2 Jun 2009:

Bob,

The fact that there are those who choose to cut a hole in the the
flat face of the ‘‘wing’’ - in some respects the worst place to
perform surgery; notoriously hard to get dead flat again - and then
undertake to repair that damage in order to get to the hinge
through that opening probably reinforce Charles’ caution about
this task, and will not materially reduce your trepadation.

We were once told these sorts of things were an ‘‘opportunity to
excell.’’

:slight_smile:

Karl–
The original message included these comments:

tackle this side only for now. Thanks for wishing me luck … it sounds
like I will need it! … Bob

–
karl
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

19

On our 140FHC, I tackled one bolt each day after work…it was about all I
could stand.

Gary Otto-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
karl
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:34 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] Another Door Question - XK120 FHC

In reply to a message from JAGULAR sent Tue 2 Jun 2009:

Bob,

The fact that there are those who choose to cut a hole in the the flat face
of the ‘‘wing’’ - in some respects the worst place to perform surgery;
notoriously hard to get dead flat again - and then undertake to repair that
damage in order to get to the hinge through that opening probably reinforce
Charles’ caution about this task, and will not materially reduce your
trepadation.

We were once told these sorts of things were an ‘‘opportunity to excell.’’

:slight_smile:

Karl

The original message included these comments:

tackle this side only for now. Thanks for wishing me luck … it
sounds like I will need it! … Bob

–
karl
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]-- --Support
Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

20

Bob,

It’s my take on the 120 hinge (did a DHC) that you first need to
ascertain the possibility of removing the pivot pin from the box and arm.
If you can, the job is relatively smooth. If you can’t and the pin is
partially broken or “frozen” into the arm and defies removal the “box”
cannot be withdrawn.

Most of us have encountered frozen or broken pins of some sort and one of
the simplest ways seems be to actually saw through the arm and pin from
the outside at the hinge pillar before loosening the 8 bolts and nuts
holding the box in position. Sometimes the saw can be started on the pin
itself if the box is spread open with a suitable wedged tool (bent with a
flat blade screw driver). Sometimes it is impossible to do this as the
pin although frozen in the arm still has both ends.

In these cases you can saw the “boss” on the arm, then on through the
pin. Once one end of the pin is off, the other side can be addressed.
After the arm is removed the box can be loosed (2 wrenches), first from
the hinge pillar then inside from cowling support channel. It is likely
that some of the fasteners are frozen too. It is often better to snap
(break) them with a good fitting set of six point wrenches than rounding
them. They are hard to get with a saw or grinder and too close to the
skin to burn.

The sawn arm boss can be trued after the pin stub is removed and shimmed
for reuse after the
box is removed and fixed. I made a pair of hinge boxes from “scratch”
turning the stand offs on a large drill press with files and bending the
plate in a bench vise with the aid of a BFH. The most important
measurement focuses on the location of the pivot pin hole. If the pins
are not in their proper place the door won’t (can’t) be in it’s place
either. If you re-pin them or install bushings of any sort, don’t make
them too precise. IMHO, the hinge needs a little “slop” for latching and
to minimize strain (flexing) of the pillar or the door.

Regards,

Rick____________________________________________________________
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