A google search for “bifurcated copper rivets” turned up a lot of hits, including this one.
https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/split-rivets-bifurcated-rivets#1
and this one.
https://www.ebay.com/i/263425584707?chn=ps
Hi folks, thank you for your help. I did find things like these too. I was trying to find something more akin to what Jag used which appears to be a small copper split to the head rivet (perhaps just a flat copper wire bent to create a rectangular head with two legs). Most of what I found had some plain shank before the legs and maybe I’ll have to settle for those in the end. I realize the ones Jim found are closer to the originals and similar are available over here, but I’ve found shipping to the U.S. from Merry Old to be roughly prohibitive. I guess it’s the exchange rate, but every time I find something I like from England, I have to pass even if it’s reasonable as shipping in stupid money. Thanks again, but I think I’ll continue looking.
“I can check my receipts if you can’t find them.”
Cliff, were you ever able to find the receipts you were looking for?
Brian
Restoration supply www.restorationstuff.com is where I got the brass split rivets. I bought the 1/2" and 3/4" lengths. In addition to the cantrail wood they are also used on the transmission cover and the heat shield under the floor. I had to cut the "split " part of the rivet deeper with a hack saw for some of the holes to get the proper length of the shank. That was a minor inconvenience but easy to do.
I also got the window setting tape for the vent windows and Penrite steering box lube from them. You might consider buying them while you are shopping there.
Cliff
Thanks much Cliff. This story is, indeed, never ending.
Thanks. Every pic is one small step closer to the understanding of how this all - every part of the inside rear - went together. If you have more ‘small contributions’, please send them to me.
Best regards, Brian
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As you see my car is stripped. But I Will send you pictures of the parts.
It is disassembled But original. As you see the little woorden strips and blocks are also there. Maybe the pictures Will help you to piece it together.
Great. Thanks a lot.
First picture you see the stripped version
second picture you see the quarterlight finish.
Wood strips
There are little screws that are screwed from the outside, just found out, that means you have to install the window after the interior finish.
As you can see the wood has a step in it for the quarterlight finish.
and some more pictures
borisvds, these are just great. I think I and all the other folks that are looking on are getting the gist of what a complicated thing this is.
Do you, or anyone else have any pics of the steps to assembling the parcel tray area behind the seats and just under the rear window? MIne was, of course, mostly rusted away and I have tried to make the parts from what remained of them, but, again, tis a puzzlement.
One other thing. Since IIRC the curved aluminum NDV piece is covered with Rexine - two questions - 1… What determines the color of the Rexine - interior upholstery color or headlining color?
2 … Since the Birch ply strips there is only 1/8" and the aluminum “lip” is 1/4" and the Rexine is only, say, less than 1/32", is there anything that fills the remaining space or does it abut the steel curved body support “lip” for this all?
BTW, thanks for the interior opera light pics. It turns out that I do have a set of these in good shape !!
Taz,
The panel under the window and the lid of the storage box I have disassembled. But it is original.
If you want I can take pics frant and back
… and in place.
- I have an original headliner, it seems to mee this is the same color/material.
- I dont think the is something extra to put in place. The Rexine is quite thick. It is more like a heavy curtain.
Good for you. Mine are restorable. I have the original lenses intact.
Great forum, great people.
Boris, thanks for the info on the Rexine color. Yes, I would like all the pictures you have in that general area of the rear of the car. As I have said, mine was quite eaten away by the tin worm and the real challenge, other than fabricating the pieces, is assembling them in the right order with the right fitments or clearances.
Here are some more pictures.
Maybe the cover of the storage box follows the body. That i dont know.
If you require something specific just let me know.
Just checked my Heritage Certificate and the interior should be red.
So it is problebly not original to this car.
Also the headliner should be wool, not moquette.
Speaking of headliners, I abhor the nosebleed prices of stuff for our cars. I do understand the business imperative. It’s just not one I can support.
Too, they don’t even fit right when we do get the expensive stuff. I always troll ebay looking for bargains on the things I know or even think I’ll need in the future. To that end a long while ago I did find a new correct pre-sewn FHC wool headliner someone was selling for $10 rather than the bespoke $488 I’ve always seen them offered at.
Of course I bought it. The catch is that it is for a 140 FHC not a basket case120 FHC like my father left me. So what?
When the time comes to fit it to my car, if the moths haven’t eaten it by then, I’m relatively sure most of it’ll fit or can be made to fit by most any competent seamstress. If my mother was still alive, I’m certain she could do a bang up job.
In any case, I’m heavily vested in skinning my cat in the most parsimonious way possible while trying to maintain some modicum of originality.
Yeah, it takes time, but the trade off for time has always been money which our Social Security checks just don’t allow for. That’s also why I make most of the parts myself. Any other way to come up with a decent driver just wasn’t an option.
It should be noted that in the parcel shelf area, my 51 car is somewhat different in panel construction from Boris and Phil’s 53 cars. I have square corners where they have ramps. If I interpret the parts catalogue FHC supplement correctly, this change occurred beginning with 679209 and 669003.
