Brian
The curved aluminium piece is covered with rexine which is the same colour as the interior, not as the headlining.
Francis
Thank Francis for the info about the aluminum covering being like the interior color. That assumes I know what color the interior is going to be. I donāt.
Anyway, on the bifurcated rivets, I did some deep searching and found these which I ordered.
There are about 50 of these copper rivets of the correct size according to some I pulled from my car. Mirabile dictu they are shipped free from England!
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Christ, thatās complex!!!
Aw Wiggy, itās not that bad, BUT it is indicative of how the rest of the car goes together. Rube Goldberg would be proud and Mergenthaler would be ecstatic.
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I apologize for the mediocre quality of this sketch I did at the time of dismantling my 140 FHC, just something I scribbled down before I put pieces away and forgot.
I can explain details if someone is interested.
Regards
Francis
Taz,
Talking about sketches, just like Francis I also made an attempt to sketch what this part of the interior construction looks like (as it is rather complex indeed). May be this will also help you (in addition to what Francis already sent you).
Regards, Bob K.
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Much better than mine, Bob !
How else can you find out the use of each of the myriad of holes in the sheet metal around the door aperture ā¦ ?
Regards
Francis
Hi Bob, great sketch. In it you note that the position of the aluminum fillet is defined by the height of rubber BD2045.
Since I have no rubber components as yet, does anyone know what that measurement is?
Brian,
IIRC the visible side of the aluminium strip rests against the door/RQ aperture lip all around the aperture.
The shape (curvature) of 1. the body steel lip, 2. the aluminim strip, 3. the wood finisher, should all match precisely for a good finish.
The rubber seal is the last item to go. It is glued to the steel body lip and hides all the screws heads.
It rests against the visible side of the aluminium strip and its height corresponds to the height of the steel body lip.
This rubber seal should be very soft, or the door wonāt shut.
The density of the rubber seal (and all other seals) can vary considerably from one supplier to the other.
I had to try a few to get a good fit.
Regards
Francis
Brian,
Francis answered your question, I guess. This drawing was made somewhere during the restoration process, so in a way itās part of a ādiscovery tourā.
I would underline the āwarningā of Francis that the āsoftnessā of the rubber is crucial. Until 10 to 15 years ago all these rubbers were far too hard meaning that when a door fitted well without the rubber, it no longer did after the rubber had been installed as there was almost no compression. Especially when you had an old Jag with 50 years old āweatheredā rubbers, it was almost impossible to use the āoldā door setting in combination with new rubbers.
Even today most rubbers are still too hard and I had to reduce the height of some of them by cutting or shaving.
Bob K.
Well Francis and Bob et al, what have you found to be the best place to get the best fitting, softest door rubber?
For that matter, does that carry over to the rest of the rubber parts needed for the car?
Iām already on an extensive discovery tour and if Iām ever to get this thing done in my lifetime, Iāll need all the low down info I can get.
Best, Brian
I would say that there is not one supplier to be recommended. One seal from one supplier will fit here, another from another supplier will fit there. All I have been able to do through the years is a trial and error process.
The ākitsā from our usuals have proved disappointing, I have found out that the specialized suppliers (Seals Direct, Woolies, Rubber Company, Comptoir-carrosserie in France, etc) are good and reliable sources.
Regards
Francis
Brian,
In general one could say that āfoamedā rubbers (with a softer rubber core but a good wear-resistant skin on the outside) works better for rubber BD2045.
Bob K.
Well, as an adjunct to this project Iāve taken out the rear window surround. When I finally got it off, I saw that the flange that holds the screws from the surround has lost a lot of its flange (mostly at the bottom).
I started a new question called āXK120 FHC rear window area refurbā. Wiggles has already responded to that and Iām pretty sure you folks know about it too. Itās all related to the whole interior and rust thing so Iām asking.
The outside area does not seem to be compromised at all. However, the inner part of about two inches along the passenger side lip seems to be rust-delaminating a bit. I suppose thatās from the rear aperture having been bent to form a dull edge around the window. Iāll clean it up as best I can and put more POR 15 on the area to prevent further decay.
Iāll have to build another flange/lip for the bottom half of the window surround. Does anyone have any tips or precautions?