Since there was some interest in the subject of retrofitting a S1 drop down panel I took video as
I went along. Link below. Try to ignore my periodic fumbling over words, please - I meant to say
I’m going to keep the S1� gauges. It’s a fairly straightforward process once you understand and
normalise the switch continuities. One wrinkle was closing the panel once the console and radio
surround was back in place. That is it wouldn’t. Not because there was too much wire behind it -
and that is a minor factor - but because the console and surround were too high. I lowered them
about 3/8’’ (I took pics and will post something on the fix later on, since it comes up from time
to time) and now everything’s as it should be. Happy camper.
To simplify matters I reused the S1� gauges in their original positions. For the same reason
reused the keyed ignition switch - looks and functions about the same as the S1 but is simpler to
wire in and retains the accessory function; it won’t fire up the engine as that function is
transferred over to the starter button … :oD.
I kept my old harness when I rewired the resto so had no problem finding matching colour-coded
wire in the correct gauge. If there’s enough interest I’ll measure and list the lengths of the
various wires needed to fab the extensions. I did not include those details in the video. Don’t
make generic extensions. Too easy to mess up the connections and fry something. Maybe your car.
This will carry over well to the S2 with the exception of the wiper motor. Even my new S1� harness
had one wiper switch wire coded differently from the original. Trace the wires from the motor to
the switch. As adapting the S1 switch can be a little tricky I’ve spent a little more time
explaining it. Any questions, fire away.
Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from N�ck sent Fri 17 Jun 2016:
Nick,
You nailed it…with the value of the 65 and 66 out pacing
the other years the ‘‘go to option’’ for the Barrett Jackson’’
restoration ‘‘folk’’ here in Phoenix has been to buy a '68 and
convert it to a ‘‘66’’ look-a like…and really since these
cars are not titled until they sell then a left over 66
could be titled as a 68…
And too…changing the rear body panels to the ‘‘66 look’’ is
very do-able with the panels not only available thru Roby
but also Chuck has them…thus by definition it is the ‘‘go
to option’’…or these rear panels would not be available…
Well…we can now add the '69, 70 and 71…
I just finished my '69 roadster and ‘‘did it my way’’…as I
like it. And being a late comer to really look at the
varies series VS being ‘‘raised’’ looking at something. I
really prefer the series 2 tail light configuration ( I
guess England requires a HUGE license plate…this
requirement destroyed the rear end of the series 1’s…as
collision bumpers destroyed the artist look of all cars
including the new F) also like the larger bonnet opening
for breathing along with the front turn signal lights…vs
the ''stuck-on look (tho the ‘‘small mouth’’ bonnet is probable
more ascetic)…and of course…I had to have COVERED HEAD
LIGHTS…and spent a bunch for Paul’s 5 speed…
The point of all this…is now a restorer (us) can do
it…the way one wants it…NEAT…really neat (yes the
rear panels option as the covered head lights option each
cost about a grand )…thus trans,carbs, bonnets, rear
panels, dash…can now be individualized by ‘‘the
restorer’’…the ‘‘fat cats’’…dealers, flippers get what is
available…again neat…
The ‘‘Barrett Jackson’’…for money restoration is limited to
the highest $$$$$$'s…and ‘‘that is OK’’…I did my roadster
for myself…my way…
So as I said…NIKE YOU NAILED IT…you did it your way…
Thanks for doing a video…because the next E I do will have
a series 1 center dash…it is the WAY if prefer the E…–
Mitchell Roe
Hasty, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Mister Mitch sent Fri 17 Jun 2016:
There is no difference between the '65/'66/'67 body and the
'68, Mitch. Identical save for the headlights, the later '67s
an exception as the bodies are identical in all respects. As
to value added I’m neither convinced nor concerned, but why
I’m keeping all the S1� bits in a sealed box for the next
owner who might prefer the original arrangement. I’ve owned
this car for 34 years and will configure it according to how
it pleases me, perceived value be damned. For the record I
won’t be converting the headlights to the S1 arrangement.
Maybe a better one, though.–
The original message included these comments:
restoration ‘‘folk’’ here in Phoenix has been to buy a '68 and
convert it to a ‘‘66’’ look-a like…and really since these
cars are not titled until they sell then a left over 66
could be titled as a 68…
And too…changing the rear body panels to the ‘‘66 look’’ is
very do-able with the panels not only available thru Roby
but also Chuck has them…thus by definition it is the ‘‘go
to option’’…or these rear panels would not be available…
Well…we can now add the '69, 70 and 71…
I just finished my '69 roadster and ‘‘did it my way’’…as I
The ‘‘Barrett Jackson’’…for money restoration is limited to
–
Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from N�ck sent Fri 17 Jun 2016:
Nick,
We are on the same page…each of us doing ‘‘my way’’…as you
say, ‘‘perceived value be dammed’’…3 cheers
Can the glove box be easily changed from series 1 to series
2…another change to do ‘‘my way’’???–
Mitchell Roe
Hasty, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from N�ck sent Fri 17 Jun 2016:
Thanks for the breath of fresh air. I also mirror your
philosophy in that I have also
added/changed/upgraded/modified my E to what pleases me (is
this a line from Lawrence of Arabia; lol). And as you, I
have kept every original part for any future owner to do
what they will. I have always had a nagging feeling in the
back of my mind that changing the original car is almost
sacrosanct. But after reading of your experiences, that
thought has dissipated. My E is not an investment. It is
solely for my enjoyment. Right on and motor on.
Stephen; 1965 OTS # 10275.–
stephenc
winnipeg/manitoba, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Since there was some interest in the subject of retrofitting a S1 drop down panel I took video as
I went along. Link below. Try to ignore my periodic fumbling over words, please - I meant to say
I’m going to keep the S1½ gauges. It’s a fairly straightforward process once you understand and
normalise the switch continuities. One wrinkle was closing the panel once the console and radio
surround was back in place. That is it wouldn’t. Not because there was too much wire behind it -
and that is a minor factor - but because the console and surround were too high. I lowered them
about 3/8’’ (I took pics and will post something on the fix later on, since it comes up from time
to time) and now everything’s as it should be. Happy camper.
To simplify matters I reused the S1½ gauges in their original positions. For the same reason
reused the keyed ignition switch - looks and functions about the same as the S1 but is simpler to
wire in and retains the accessory function; it won’t fire up the engine as that function is
transferred over to the starter button … :oD.
I kept my old harness when I rewired the resto so had no problem finding matching colour-coded
wire in the correct gauge. If there’s enough interest I’ll measure and list the lengths of the
various wires needed to fab the extensions. I did not include those details in the video. Don’t
make generic extensions. Too easy to mess up the connections and fry something. Maybe your car.
This will carry over well to the S2 with the exception of the wiper motor. Even my new S1½ harness
had one wiper switch wire coded differently from the original. Trace the wires from the motor to
the switch. As adapting the S1 switch can be a little tricky I’ve spent a little more time
explaining it. Any questions, fire away.
Hi Nick, An old thread, but I’m about to take this on… I have just acquired a S1 dash and have watched your video a couple times. I’ve got a few questions. Hope you don’t mind.
You decided to use the 1.5 gauges rather than the S1. I think I prefer the S1. Why did you stay with the originals? Do you see any issues using the S1 Amp gauge instead of the S2 voltage?
You mention requiring different sized spade connectors for the S1 components. Where did you source the correct size connectors? Are they commonly available?
When creating your jumper wires, did you use crimp-on connectors or did you take the time to solder?
A source for the correct wire? You mentioned that you maintained original color coding, where did you source the wire?
in your video, I noticed you had a yellow pad that you had laid out the switch configurations. Is that something you still have and that I might get a copy of.
(Yikes!) Is there anything else I should consider or know before taking this on?
THANK YOU in advance for your help and terrific video.
Uncanny Robert that you resurrected this thread when you did.
I have an S2 roadster bought from Texas a couple of years back, converted to right hand drive, Strombergs changed for Webers and D type wheels so I’m also very firmly in the ‘my way’ camp.
The S2 centre dash to my eye is just not right so I priced up a full set of S1 switches with the intention of making up an S1 panel, all available but at a cost of £430. This put a bit of a damper on the project but yesterday morning I found a complete S1 panel complete with gauges for £275.
Next choice is to finish as an early S1 with the dimpled aluminium panel or retain the black leathercloth. The latter looks likely as I can’t find a small sheet of dimpled ally, only a full set of new ally panels at significant cost.
With an Alternator, a Volt Meter is a far more useful gauge so this will be swapped from the S2 dash and as I’m retired, I rarely need a clock.
One other ‘niggle’ is the damping effect on the gauges especially the oil pressure gauge so I’ll be having a look at fettling this.
Here in the UK a number of suppliers offer all of the common wire colour and current rating combinations by the meter.
When my S1 panel arrives I’ll add any further information which may be useful.
Nice car! I too have made a few changes. My 68 came with strombergs And I swapped for triple SU’s and I put on a set of Borrani Record wire wheels. Some previous owner put covered headlights on the car. So the toggle dash would be the next logical step.
I’m waiting for my newly acquired dash to show up and then I can get started. In the meantime I have spent some time documenting my existing situation. I would suggest you consider the same, as I now know much more about the wiring layout. My new-to-me dash has some of the wires still in place, so I’m hopeful that I can use them to provide the connectors and lengths of jumper wires that I will need.
I took my dash cover off, which aids access and light significantly. You might want to do the same.
Here is my diagram of gauges, switches and wires. I just did it for me, so it’s not particularly legible, but afterwards I know where everything goes and, roughly, what it actually looks like. ( The circled H means the wire comes out of the harness)
When I get the toggle dash, I’ll draw it on the bottom half of the same paper, and I’ll be able to have a side by side comparison.
Finally thanks for the comments about V vs Amps. Sounds like I should keep the S2 gauge.
Oddly, I didn’t get a notice that posts were added to this thread, only your PM.
You decided to use the 1.5 gauges rather than the S1. I think I prefer the S1. Why did you stay with the originals? Do you see any issues using the S1 Amp gauge instead of the S2 voltage?
Mostly it was the positions of the S1 gauges don’t lend themselves to be replicated using the S1.5 harness without having to add additional wire extensions, but also because it simplifies matters.
You mention requiring different sized spade connectors for the S1 components. Where did you source the correct size connectors? Are they commonly available?
There are two sizes. The majority are standard and about 1/4” in width available everywhere. The few exceptions are narrower. I made the male connectors from 20 ga to fit into the female connectors in the S1.5 harness.
When creating your jumper wires, did you use crimp-on connectors or did you take the time to solder?
Solder.
A source for the correct wire? You mentioned that you maintained original color coding, where did you source the wire?
I kept my old harness when I installed a new Autosparks harness and salvaged the correct colour coded wires from it.
in your video, I noticed you had a yellow pad that you had laid out the switch configurations. Is that something you still have and that I might get a copy of.
I’ll have to look for it, but I think it will serve you better to go through the exercise and lay out the switch configurations yourself.
(Yikes!) Is there anything else I should consider or know before taking this on?
Yes. Emphasis on #5. Seek to understand the function of each of the rocker switches and toggles using a continuity meter.
One other thing I did was delete the padded surround. It required fabbing a replacement radio mounting panel. This not only cleans up the aesthetic and looks more like the S1 design but also allows the panel to be dropped down without removing the headlamp switch lever and cigar lighter.
Thanks for your reply! Yes I can see that doing the layout was a huge step forward in understanding what went were. You can see a photo of mine above.
And I’ve got a S1 center piece to replace the 1.5 padded one.
Where did you find the pull switch for the hazard? I’ve looked around and haven’t seen anything like it.
Thanks Again
Perhaps, though threads I started 23 years ago have shown up recently when someone’s resurrected them. Are you seeing this in the list of recent E-type topics?
So an update. I’ve made good progress, with most of the wiring in place. I’ve followed Nicks advice and am keeping the gauges in their original locations.
A couple of things I’ve discovered:
My life was made significantly easier by acquiring a S1 dash with remanents of the old wiring still in place. It made it easy to figure out what went where, and I was able to use the wires already attached to make jumpers of the correct color code. You can see an example of this on the light switch
As Nick mentioned there are two sizes of connectors used in the S1.5 / 2 wiring harness, the usual 1/4” and a small 4.8mm which is found on the wiper switch and panel light switch. I was unable to successfully modify the 1/4” so have ordered some of the smaller connectors.
The U brackets holding the instruments the the dash are two different lengths. The S1 dash is only a copper sheet, so the distance to the back of the dash to the back of the instruments is LONGER than the newer dash which has plywood. The newer U brackets will fit, but make contact with the terminals on the back of the switches, which I assumed was not going to have a pleasant result. So I used the new gauges but the longer S1 brackets.
Having acquired a case of while-I’m-at-it disease, I’ve also replace the S2 style drivers side dash with a S1unit, the primary reason for this was the heater control. I figured if I was going to risk life and limb with the use of toggle switches on the center dash, what’s two more? Seriously I think it’s a nicer look, and my old dash was tired anyway.
I’m still waiting for the new instrument gaskets and chrome bezels to show up.
My conversion is also moving ahead quite nicely but inevitably the brief has been somewhat expanded. I’ll explain and post some pics once I’m a little further down the road.
But in the meantime I do have a question regarding the wiper switch.
My S2 Rocker switch has four wires – Black, Red / Green, Blue / Green, Green.
According to Nicks video connecting to the series 1 Toggle Switch with 6 terminals :
Black (Earth) goes to pin 2
Red / Green to pin 3
Blue / Light Green to pin 4
Pins 5 and 6 are linked
Where does the green wire go ? - (Positive feed from Fuse 6)
The Series 1 wiper motor is different from the Series 1.5 which is different again from the Series 2. 5 v 3 v 4 wires respectively. Your continuity diagrams for the two switches in their three respective positions- off, low speed, high speed - will tell you where the green (power) wire goes because its terminal will have continuity with no other terminal in the off position but will have continuity with different terminals in the two on positions.
As Nick noted, the different models have different wiring. Both Nicks and my cars are S1.5 while you have a S2.
Here’s a copy of the wiring diagram for your car. Hopefully you can figure out the function of your switch.
