[E-Type] Which rear brakes?

I am fitting the CJ vented wilwood kit to the front of my car and
need to refurbish the rears. Anyone have any thoughts as to what
would be the best setup? I have heard of people fitting the front
cylinders to the rears - is this a good idea or am I best refurbing
the original rears?–
65 OTS 1E11497
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In reply to a message from Angus Moss sent Sat 26 Apr 2008:

As I understand, just refresh front pistons and affix to the rear
and bob’s yer uncle!–
The original message included these comments:

I am fitting the CJ vented wilwood kit to the front of my car and
need to refurbish the rears. Anyone have any thoughts as to what
would be the best setup? I have heard of people fitting the front
cylinders to the rears - is this a good idea or am I best refurbing
the original rears?


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Angus Moss sent Sat 26 Apr 2008:

Angus,
You want to beef up the rears, otherwise you’ll find the bias
has moved quite a bit towards the front. You can just bolt the old
front cylinders on the rear calipers, and that will put it back
pretty close to stock bias, though it’ll still be a bit forward of
stock.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Angus Moss sent Sat 26 Apr 2008:

Angus,

Another consideration is how often you want to fiddle with the rear
brakes. I used Hye-dra-cyl all-stainless pots and pistons back
there, and when I had to replace the melted rubber several years
later the bores were clean and shiny as new. So get the front
version and install in the rear. Not cheap, though.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Sun 27 Apr 2008:

OK Thanks guys - enough info there to move forward with now.–
65 OTS 1E11497
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In reply to a message from Angus Moss sent Sun 27 Apr 2008:

As you have the rear axle out fit vented rear discs and
appropriate calipers (XJ6 I think). The rear discs get very
hot with little opportunity for cool air especially if you
are doing the odd Alpine pass or a few fast track laps on a
hot day. For the small extra cost why compromise? It will
also give you a better balance with the vented Wilwoods.

I have found I need to change the rear pads when they are
about 30% worn to keep heat transfer under control (the pad
material is an insulator, so thicker the better) with
standard discs. Alternative is to fit rear brake cooling
ducts but the cost outweighs the vented option.

David–
David Jones, S1 OTS
Nottingham, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Heuer sent Sun 27 Apr 2008:

‘’ Alternative is to fit rear brake cooling ducts but the cost
outweighs the vented option. ‘’

Care to share your cost/benefit calculations on that one David? I’m
thinking it’s a few hours snipping/folding cardboard templates and
alloy sheet, fixed with self-tappers, versus a 450 GBP vented rear
conversion from the likes of Derek Watson?

Pete–
66 2+2, 78 RAM D-type replica
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Sun 27 Apr 2008:

Peter

http://www.rspanels.co.uk/spares.htm

Brake cooling ducts �629.97 + VAT per set. Obviously you can
take the DIY approach using the Jaguar plans but comparing
like for like (bought) the vented discs are cheaper. But
then you need to take the IRS cage out to swap the
discs/calipers whereas you can bolt on the kit. Also always
depends on how you value your time and your skill with the
snips!

David–
David Jones, S1 OTS
Nottingham, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Angus Moss sent Sat 26 Apr 2008:

Hi Angus,

Here’s the link, Jerry was referring to:
http://www.hyedracyl.com/etype.html

I’m going this route the next time I get the energy to pull the
cage.

Good Luck!–
The original message included these comments:

I am fitting the CJ vented wilwood kit to the front of my car and
need to refurbish the rears. Anyone have any thoughts as to what
would be the best setup? I have heard of people fitting the front
cylinders to the rears - is this a good idea or am I best refurbing


KenAsh, Severna Park, MD, 1E77559 '67 2+2, 641/2 Mustang Cvt
Severna Park, MD, United States
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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sat 26 Apr 2008:

I’ve yet to fully understand this ‘‘problem’’, in the real world (NOT
the mathematical one).

I replaced the fronts w/Wilwoods in 2003 and on dirt OR pavement, I
don’t experience front lockup in any greater appreciable way than
stock, and my pedal moves barely any differently than stock.
On a track maybe there’s a difference, but in any of the
(admittedly limited) uses I’ve encountered w/Tweety, I’m not
pulling the rear cage anytime soon to do this swap.–
The original message included these comments:

You want to beef up the rears, otherwise you'll find the bias 

has moved quite a bit towards the front. You can just bolt the old
front cylinders on the rear calipers, and that will put it back
pretty close to stock bias, though it’ll still be a bit forward of
stock.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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Paul,
I too have Wilwoods on the front and last year I put the old front
cylinders on the back and I really can’t say that there is any
noticeable difference in normal driving. Maybe an all out emergency
stop would be a totally different.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Apr 28, 2008, at 9:41 AM, Wiggles wrote:

In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sat 26 Apr 2008:

I’ve yet to fully understand this ‘‘problem’’, in the real world (NOT
the mathematical one).

I replaced the fronts w/Wilwoods in 2003 and on dirt OR pavement, I
don’t experience front lockup in any greater appreciable way than
stock, and my pedal moves barely any differently than stock.
On a track maybe there’s a difference, but in any of the
(admittedly limited) uses I’ve encountered w/Tweety, I’m not
pulling the rear cage anytime soon to do this swap.

The original message included these comments:

You want to beef up the rears, otherwise you’ll find the bias
has moved quite a bit towards the front. You can just bolt the old
front cylinders on the rear calipers, and that will put it back
pretty close to stock bias, though it’ll still be a bit forward of
stock.


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

Wig-man,

OK, here’s my take. I know you know that it makes a big
difference, since racing setup balances brakes very carefully to
get the best braking, and modern cars have dynamic balancing units
that rebalance the front to rear braking based on the weight
transfer – how much the rear suspension rises during braking.

The reason the rear brakes are smaller is that while E Type weight
is well balanced front-to-back, under braking the car’s weight
balance moves forward so quite a bit more of it is on the front
wheels. Interesting that the Porsche 911 has the same effect, but
its rear weight bias means it’s weight is more nearly evenly
distributed under heavy braking, one reason they brake so well.
(Also note center of gravity does not move, FWIW.)

The real world effect SHOULD be (see the mathematical analysis
building up? ; -) that at the maximum braking point, when the front
wheels are at the very point of locking up, without locking up. At
this point any more pedal pressure would lock the front wheels and
reduce overall braking force. A good driver NEVER locks the wheels.

With smaller than required rear brakes, the rear wheel braking
force then will be a bit less, and the rear wheels will not be near
locking up. This means that the braking force on the rear tire
treads to the road will be a bit less than it would be with optimum
brakes.

The braking force on the car is the sum of braking forces of all
four wheels, so overall braking at the limit will be less than
optimum, and so brakes won’t stop the car as quickly.

The optimum would be that all four wheels are just at the point of
locking up at the same moment. At that time the braking force is
the maximum that the given tires can apply – all four of them.

The other point sometimes discussed is what end of the car locks up
first. If the front locks first, the car slides straight ahead
without steering, but it stays stable front-first. If the rears
lock first, you maintain steering but anyone who has experienced a
snap-spin realizes that once the car gets a little out of straight
ahead with front grip and no rear grip, the rear end swings around
a lot faster than a human can control it, and remember we are
talking about a pretty extreme emergency situation so the driver is
not likely to be on top of things (otherwise the brakes would not
have locked up). As for me, having all wheels lock at the same
time is optimum, and you get maximum stopping power up until the
wheels lock to boot.

So it’s important on the road when a fool pulls out, as well as on
track. Cruising to the store or to Texas, we won’t notice any
difference at all. Braking less than max, no difference (?)

And you can do the swap without pulling the IRS.

Also, note how the braking effect is in the end determined by your
tires, once the car has done its best. Crummy tires will slide you
into the tractor, while good ones will grab better. Good
investment, expensive tires.

Jerry–
The original message included these comments:

I’ve yet to fully understand this ‘‘problem’’, in the real world (NOT
the mathematical one).


Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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Hi Folks,
I know this has come up recently but I can’t find it in the archives,
what is your take on the pertronix distributor, it claims to have the
appropriate advance curve (although it doesn’t list specs, total
advance etc) and is cheap $179 +shipping. Now that I have the Su’s
I’m thinking it’s time to get rid of the old D22 (without vacuum
advance). Thoughts?
Cheers,
Lynn
68ots 3su
73fhc 4zs
Boise, Idaho______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

I bought one from Mike Frank to replace the DMBZ distributor
in my 3.8. It seems to work just great. The only issue was
I had to change from screw in spark leads to the push in type.–
Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States
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Angus,

Good choice on the CJ Vented fronts. A few years ago, I asked Dan if
he’d trade me a set of Wilwood caliper mounts for the specs for a vented
front brake system I was designing for my E-Type. After consulting with
the Wilwood engrs regarding choice of what caliper and rotor to use, I
worked with a local machine shop to fab all the necessary parts, along
with the Wilwood caliper and rotor combo. It wasn’t long til I had the
whole system installed. The system worked perfectly from the start and
continues to provide optimum performance. So as promised, I mailed the
engr’g dwg’s to Dan. I asked him what if any, changes he had to make to
the original design… he said none.

As far as the rears go … I changed to the larger XJ6 calipers. The
balance is perfect and the system has worked well under track
conditions, and on the road. If I ever have to pull the IRS again, I
might consider going to one of the new vented kits for the rear that’s
on the market now.

Cheers,

Chuck Anderson
'64 FHC
Port Orchard, WA

Angus Moss wrote:>I am fitting the CJ vented wilwood kit to the front of my car and

need to refurbish the rears. Anyone have any thoughts as to what
would be the best setup? I have heard of people fitting the front
cylinders to the rears - is this a good idea or am I best refurbing
the original rears?


65 OTS 1E11497
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

I had a 70 series II and put triple SU’s but only put the kit in to
change the stock distributor from points to mag pick up. All worked
great but there were some issues with the tach which pertronixs
helped me resolve.
Sonny–
The original message included these comments:

what is your take on the pertronix distributor, it claims to have the


Sonny
Lake Charles, La. USA, United States
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Thanks Gary, didn’t realize that Mike sold them. Do you have any
spec’s on it? Are they a 13 degree mechanical advance…
Cheers,
LynnOn Apr 28, 2008, at 9:40 AM, Gary Herzberg wrote:

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

I bought one from Mike Frank to replace the DMBZ distributor
in my 3.8. It seems to work just great. The only issue was
I had to change from screw in spark leads to the push in type.

Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States


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Hi Sonny,
Thanks for the reply, I already have the pertronix ignitor, I’m
wondering if it will add much to have the pertronix dizzy with it’s
vacuum advance. Had issues with my tach, had to send it off for a
rebuild.
Cheers,
LynnOn Apr 28, 2008, at 10:35 AM, Sonny wrote:

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

I had a 70 series II and put triple SU’s but only put the kit in to
change the stock distributor from points to mag pick up. All worked
great but there were some issues with the tach which pertronixs
helped me resolve.
Sonny

The original message included these comments:

what is your take on the pertronix distributor, it claims to have the


Sonny
Lake Charles, La. USA, United States


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In reply to a message from mouton sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

Mout-man…???

I understand (and understood, before your post) all that you
pointed out; I spent a great deal of time studying this,
and working/utilizing these principles in racing cars.

My question is this: at the ragged edge of hard braking (a
good deal of which I cautiously did, when I put on the
Wilwoods) does the mechanical ‘imbalance’ of the Wilwood
fronts/stock rears result in a marked, and possibly
hazardous, decrease in overall braking efficiency?
When I drove Tweets on both paved and dirt roads, I simply
did not experience any significant mechanical brake
imbalance that alarmed me. I was also firmly told that my
brake pedal would have increased travel, which it did not.

That being said, I’m quite aware that what I did is
different than what one might see on a track.

Have you, or others, driven a similarly-equipped car, in
anger, and what was the result?–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Mon 28 Apr 2008:

So you’re saying that you understand all the whats and whys, but
then say it doesn’t work that way for you? Of course if that setup
works for you, then have at it!

But you’d have to wonder why CJ recommends moving the front pots to
the back with Wilwoods. All I said is why, as far as I can tell.

If you want the diagrams and equations, check here:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakebiasandperformance.shtml

Captain Kirk, ya canna’ change the laws of physics! ; -)

The hazardous part is if you’re just a little too close to the
cliff for your diminished brakes to stop you before you go over.
Or you hit the tractor-trailer. Other than that, no worries!

Kind of funny to install Wilwoods to increase braking, then because
of imbalance actually reduce the effective braking… What’s that
about?

Or maybe I’m just wrong – it happens all the time ; -)

YMMV.

Jerry

PS, I have driven a similarly equipped car, similar in that the
rear brakes were oily and therefore weak, and trust me, the overall
braking effect was much less even though the fronts were good!–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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