Lets build a 1967 e type together

(Steve) #264

My ‘69 was missing the aerial so you tell me if this antenna hole is original? Did all ‘69’s have them? What kind of crude hole is below the antenna hole at the door jam. Doesn’t look factory

(j limongelli) #265

Steve the hole up top looks original BUT , did you have a POWER ANTENNA?
The one underneath looks to be a drain hole for the tube on an electric antenna so the water can drain out .
Does that make sense to you?
My 70 had a rear quartermount hole and was fitted with an XJ6 antenna back in the day, they all had bottom drains if water went down the shaft. My tube drained to the spare tire carrier hole.
That’s what yours looks like to me…could be a hack job as well for old cb antenna ,or the rubber grommet to hold the antenna wire but it would have to bump into the door?

(j limongelli) #266

What a pleasure working on a virgin 72,000 mile car!
Look how the original rubber gasket was so dried out but how clean it is in the track!
If this were a New York car it would be bondo all over
The rubber from sng was spot on and the 3m glue in black was so easy to work with
Look at the last picture as you know the rubber is correct and not pushing up the hatch
The body Iine is jaguar perfect!
Great job!

(j limongelli) #267

Job number two for the nite
The lettering like most were just laid in with no retaining cups
One water gets in and two they were Loose and rattle or fall off
All done with new retainers
I had to file but it’s close enough for now till s new paint job in five years
Hope you like as this is a bitch little job

(D Barnes) #268

Joey did you do this by yourself or did you have a helper ? I think my car might be similar condition to yours being a virgin no rust 60,000 mile car. I have this job in my future since the rubber is dried out and have been contemplating doing it myself and wonder how frustrating it might be without a helper.

68 E-type FHC

(j limongelli) #269

By myself
It’s called quiet time!

Like this abortion
When I put the key on the fan would come on
Patching a problem
When I took out the lower dash ooopsie this switch drops down
I get it but the rad/relay and all the rest are going!
A Hayden relay under the bonnet is the way to go with a inline fuse!
The rubber is easy my friend do one half at a time
Pull up the rubber then clean the track
I brushed the 3m in the channel then placed the rubber
It works great
I recommend the sng rubber kit it was perfect with a touch extra to trim!

(j limongelli) #270

It’s simple really😳

(Ben E) #271

It’s nice to hear of weatherstripping that actually fits…that’s a rarity these days, regardless of make/model…MG, Ford, Jag.

One trick I’ve heard for door seals that are too bulky is to drape them over something, and hang a weight from from them, so they stretch (and thin) out. Most people just install them in the misguided hope that they will collapse a bit once the doors are slammed closed, but that rarely works out.

The guy who told me about the stretching trick said he ended up cutting something like 5-6” of excess material off his door seals once they were stretched, and he had a achieved a really nice fit.

(Bill Bilotti 1966 S1 OTS (in boxes)) #272

Was the poor woman left with any scars?

(j limongelli) #273

Here’s an easy one…
So if your steering wheel is loose in and out just a bit and the collar is tight
Always check the steering wheel bolt
Mine was loose and once I tightened it everything was solid again!
I will do the column and bushes one day but that trick makes the car feel

(j limongelli) #274

Sorry guys no posts today
I need a day of rest as my fingers are swollen from the small detail work
I’m watching Marriage Italian Style!
Ahhhhhh Que Bella!

(j limongelli) #275

Well, I ordered the HT starter, more gages on the way and the rest of the led lights should be here today.
I ordered the rubber jag mats which were always great and new plugs for the carpet.
Will have pictures soon.
The Dayton/grainger motor with a permenant magnet draws a lot less then the original winding motor for the heater blower.
In turn it also blows a lot quieter.
Pics soon.

(j limongelli) #276

I installed the led interior lights
They started to flicker which is impossible
I opened the dash and the toggle just fell apart
Sng has them for around 25 dollars!
I used the original chrome ring instead of the new stainless to match the rest of the dash
The light is the perfect hue and now uses less than 1 amp and can’t melt the cover!

(j limongelli) #277

The map light is done as well
A hair clearer white light but the effect is so modern yet clean light
Not over powering
Just wait till you see the complete dash!
I compare it to a db9 very very good looking!

(j limongelli) #278

Okay lets hit the “THIRD RAIL” with the group when it comes to wiring and safety.
On my EALIER cars such as DB2 or XK120 , They all have the same basic set up with all the current and wires running THROUGH the light switch with really no fuse system.
Many years ago people smarter than me came up with a BOSCH RELAY as the feed to the switch and also moved many wires from the one set screw to a more secure relay .
This did two things, It isolated and made a breaker for the switch .
This way a short would not burn down the whole car and isolate the lights away from everything else.
I received two calls from friends over seas doing the same with the ETYPE wih the same old light switch on a series 1.
Its fused at the block , do you think its overkill?
Need some input…I like the idea, but don’t want this to turn into an xj6 series 3 with 3 fuses in a wiper motor circuit:)

(Robin O'Connor) #279

Anything that takes current from switches has to be a good thing, I can remember how hot my ignition switch used to get after a night run using the lights in my ‘S’
I am certainly going to place relays in the circuit when I redo the wiring for my current ‘65 ‘S’

(j limongelli) #280

Well, I just got off the phone with SNG , The reproduction blower motor is a permanent magnet and only draws 1.3 amps!
Compared to the original at 3+ to 5 amps and the old windings making friction.
This is another way to go.
Yes I see the fiero kit but I don’t want to cut the box.
The squirrel wheel is a new pitch and a hair larger, so lets see what it does…
I have news for all real soon about the new book so stay tuned.

Robin, I agree, , its an interesting balance of safety, technology and applying something to an old formula AND MAKING IT WORK!
Its really fun compared to my first build 30 years ago, this is a different challenge.
Thanks for the input.

(Dzia) #281

The headlights on my TR6 appear to be wired about the same way as the E. I used a headlight kit from http://www.advanceautowire.com/.

It was a very clean install and the headlights were much brighter than without the relays and fuses. It was very easy to hide the block and run the wires along side existing. Looking at the car you cannot tell the lighting has been upgraded. No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer.


(Eric) #282

If you’re serious about installing an AC system in the future, you might want to start rethinking the entire electrical system from the ground up, as opposed to making willy nilly upgrades to this circuit, and then that circuit, and then the next one. I mentioned the Bob Skelly electrical system upgrade early in this thread. It’s a comprehensive makeover of the electrical system using the existing wiring looms plus a few additional wires here and there, plus modern relayand fuse panels. But the big change is from an architecture perspective. It segregates switched and unswitched circuits, adds 30A modern mini-relays to high load circuits, and completely offloads the ignition switch. I took Bob’s concept a little farther…here’s a photo of the electrical distribution center. There’s another small panel hidden behind the glove box (false rear panel). There are ten relays in the system, and two new fuse panels with modern bayonet type fuses. If you want an air conditioned car with a bullet proof electrical system, this is something to give serious consideration. Forum member larebob has done something similar. I was converting to an alternator, so used the old voltage regulator location for the distribution center. The original looms still reside in original locations, but most of the panel switches now simply control the switching signal to a relay. You can have hidden relays stashed all over the car, or just make a clean change from the gitgo

The battery cable goes to the insulated terminal post (as do the alternator and starter cables). Also attached to the terminal post are two large red wires that feed two 40 amp fuses…the two black boxes at the top of the stack…one for switched (by the key) circuits, and one for unswitched (hot circuits). There are two large red wires coming out the other end of the fuses which feed…hot and switched loads. The second tier of the stack are the mini relays from Waytec electrical. They gang together for compactness. The lower box is a large fuse panel with mini fuses. The panel behind the glove box feeds the starter and electronic ignition circuits and a few miscellaneous items like the brake warning system.

This would be down the road stuff for when you pull the engine and install the AC. But again, now is the time to plan for it.

(Paul Wigton) #283

Nice set-up: any close-up pix?