Then I would assume the full surface would be the thrust bearing?
Wide one should be self-explanatory: grooved ones grooved ones are usually paired. Odd to see not all are oil groovedâŚ
That discolorization of the rear main journal suggests a serious out-of-roundness: check the align bore, and check the crank for straightness.
Oh crap⌠That does not sound good !! 
The grooved ones were in one plastic wrap, the non grooved ones in another plastic wrap.
Were they:
-in the same box, and
-had the box been opened, prior to you getting it?
I dont remember, I opened that box last yearâŚ
OK: do you have 7 grooved, 7 non-grooved?
8 grooved, 6 non grooved. The extra grooved one is the central one, it was in the wrapper with the non-grooved ones.
Grooved all go in the block, and the extraâIIRCâgoes in the middle main.
This is what I guessed. I am just alarmed that guess work is involved in this!
Can I not simply check this out myself with a dial gauge?
I would think you could check the straightness of the crank by sitting it in the front and rear bearings and with a DTI check the centre bearing for run out, with bearing shell in those bores there might be a witness mark that could support Wiggs thoughts concerning the out of round, it might leave a witness mark where there is discolouration.
Checking align bore requires a pretty special jig, in a boring machine, and checking crank straightness requires a sturdy end support saddle, and a well-supported sliding dial gauge.
If you have all that, itâs a snap!
Well, I have none of all that⌠Not even sure what it all means⌠I need to educate myself clearly.
Would the old bearing shell not show some serious damage / wear?
Itâs more complicated than just âreadingâ the shells: due to the complex and somewhat chaotic motion of a bent shaft in a (possibly) out-of-line bore block, coupled with wear patterns associated with dirt⌠it gets complex.
Im a great devotee of DIY: in the case of checking align bore, and crankshaft measuring for/correcting âbentnessâ⌠find a shop that knows how.
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Without the bottom half of the rope seal located, did the crank lock up when you tried to turn it after torque down? Sorry if youâve said this somewhere in this post, havenât got time right now to read all of it. If it turns freely without any tight spots, fit bother half if rope seal. If itâs locked up then, seal is too tight.
Other half not bother!
Just saw you pics of the bearings if thatâs how they came out of the box, send them back.
Somebody has definitely messed with those before. You should get a new set of bearings with scratches like that on them.
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I would fit the bottom part of the seal on the crank, after initial fitting, by tapping it onto the crank with a lead or dead blow hammer.
Trim seal, if needed, and do a test fit and turn test, before final torquing. Make sure to slather a light assembly lube on the seal: never heavy grease.
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