Continuing the discussion from What did you do to your E-Type today? (Part 1) - #10714 by ScotThompson.
Previous discussions:
Oh Wow! Looks like I got the gold ring (Martha’s Vineyard Carousel) on this thread hitting 10,000 replies.
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Great to see the thread’s a special one.
Today I’m doing a transmission oil change on my T5 from Classic Jaguar, and changing my 02 sensor I guess you carb guys would say adjusting air fuel……
Happy Thursday
Haven’t tried this one, but it appears to be what you are looking for.
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Thanks Wayne. That is what I have for my motorcycles. But it is too small for the large diameter of the handbrake cable housing. I’ve done it in the past with tape and then taping the nozzle/straw into that. It works but is messy. Besides I’d rather use grease vs. cable lube I think.
To lube bike/ F440 chains, I’d boil them in heavy grease: perhaps use the same technique, snd use boiling grease, dribbled in.
I used to do that Paul, but before there were O-Ring chains. Now I have resorted to simply buying chain saw( as in your F440) chain lube…and an old school oil gun. Lasts long, stays put, easy to apply, cheap.
But cables are much different than chains. I don’t want to remove the cable; I need an idea!
I did some preventative on my wifes MGTF, I used a piece of tube that was large enough that I could feed the cable nipple into (disconnected from the throttle plate) clamped the tube over the outer casing of the cable and then used a syringe to force oil down the inner.
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Robin,
This may not work in your situation but I learned this trick from an airplane mechanic. Remove one end of the cable and tie a baggy around it. You want to create a small reservoir for the lubricant. Support that end of the cable securely. Then, add some mouse milk or similar to the reservoir and let it soak in over night.
https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-Oil-8-Oz/dp/B0049C7170
Dave
Thanks Dave but i have already done the job Its Scott thats struggling.
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Painted tub bottom today on my 68 OTS
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That’s progress mark good for you
That’s some frame you’ve got there.
Mouse Milk heh! I hadn’t come across that brand yet. The idea has merit Dave, but I don’t think it’ll work in my case. The handbrake cable is mol horizontal and already connected at its front (the hand brake) whereas the rear is not connected at its rear. I’ll take a pic of it. While I can raise the rear end of the cable somewhat it’d be tricky to support a bag reservoir or such and have to fill that. I’m thinking a pressurized method will work. So something like Robin’s rubber tube idea will work. I’ve some CRC white lithium grease in a spray can so if I fit a hose over the cable and then a series of smaller hoses down to the straw, that may work.
It is just that I recall reading about a very clever way of getting grease into a cable but I cannot recall how it was done.
On MGs, I thought my MGB had a grease nipple on the handbrake cable. That was convenient!
Pic below:
Quite a few cars, back in the day, had same: prolly figured few used them, so could save $.0003/unit, if removed.
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Yep, unfortunately, you need some elevation for this trick to work. I can’t tell you how much of a difference it can make. I’ve had throttle, mixture, and prop cables go from stubborn to smooth overnight with this trick.
Dave
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Hi,
IIRC the MKV has at least one, if not two zerks for greasing the handbrake cable.
Cheers!
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Moving along with the car. Yesterday I fit the Outer Fulcrum Shafts. The Hubs and the Wishbones are now connected. Yeah! Today I took the IRS off the motorcycle jack that it has been on for more than 11 months and laid it in a carpet and flipped it so as to be right side up. Then I re-mounted it to the motorcycle jack so I can set the camber. Sounds trivial, but it was a lot of work! I need a nap…or some whiskey!
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Hi Scot…just a sanity check…are your splined hubs fitted on the correct sides…iv seen it a few times that onec fitted on the car the builder realises hes got it wrong…so just check…Steve
